limpus

There is more volume to fill but you should not get a drop in performance due to the new fmic allowing more flow and also not to mention cooler denser air...

I'd say there would be a leak somewhere along the piping or in the cooler...its the main culprit behind the problems people encounter when fitting FMICs...

Cam gears are set a IN+3 and EX-6...as for the exhaust...its some generic jap exhaust that came with the car...but i had a large resonator welded in to reduce noise...so that can't be helping...

All very valid points...thanks fellas...i did think it was down on power slightly but like mentioned power is only a figure...i am enjoying the car as is for now... the exhaust might be alittle restrictive still as i had a large resonator welded in to keep exhaust noise down...i'm inclined to agree with most of you and just leave the car as is...was just looking for ideas...thanks for your input guys...cheers....

Thanks mate...i've already got suspension...and done the rear subframe bushes too along with a 1.5 way lsd...with any larger turbo the rb20 would be alittle laggier than stock...but its all worth it above 4000rpm when it comes alive...i was looking for alittle icing on the cake for the engine...like head work or cams as mentioned or even a proper exhaust manifold...i believe i have already done most of the usual bolt on mods so now i'm looking for ideas...cheers....

Hey fellas...i'm just after some opinions on what you would do next if you were in my position...i have a rb20det R32 making 217rwkw @ 19.5psi with the following mods: 1989 RB20DET R32 3" Turboback Exhaust with 3" Metalcat Hybrid FMIC Bosch 040 GTR Injectors Z32 afm Turbotech Bleeder Aerospeed cam gears HKS 2535 DR DRIFT Remap To me the usable power at the moment is decent but i was wondering if there was anything more i could do...perhaps cams or some head work? If you were in my position what else would you do to the current setup to give it a slight edge? I'm not keen on a rb25 or any other conversion just yet and the rest of the car (clutch, suspension, lsd, brakes) have been done already...i'm looking for genuine suggestions to undertake in the near future as i'm enjoying the car as is for now...Cheers!! Heres a dyno chart from my last tune...the lower reading was from the last tune without the Metalcat...

Here is the latest result for my car...old result was 201rwkw at 17psi with a restrictive cat...now it has been replaced with a metal cat and it made 217rwkw at 19.5psi...Sam aka Dr Drift was able to dial in a few more degrees of ignition timing with the better flowing cat and hence the improved result...driveability has improved a fair bit with the added timing but its still abit of a slug down low (can't be helped as its an rb20)...regardless i'm pretty happy with the final result...i think its near the limit of the current setup but its still far off from the big numbers some of you are pulling... 1989 RB20DET R32 3" Turboback Exhaust with 3" Metalcat Hybrid FMIC Bosch 040 GTR Injectors Z32 afm Turbotech Bleeder Aerospeed cam gears HKS 2535 DR DRIFT Remap

Lastest Result: 1989 RB20DET R32 3" Turboback Exhaust with 3" Metalcat Hybrid FMIC Bosch 040 GTR Injectors Z32 afm Turbotech Bleeder Aerospeed cam gears HKS 2535 DR DRIFT Remap With latest tune...it made 217rwkw @ 19.5 psi... Lower reading was from the last tune without the metalcat...

Don't know how accurate this is but when i did mine about 2 months ago it gave between 155-160psi across all 6 cylinders...

^^^ Exactly... Search will answer all your questions...

You can fit some of the smaller pods like the Apexi power intake into a r32 airbox...i have done it...you'll have to butcher the airbox abit though...with the pod hidden inside you won't get problems from the cops...its still quite quiet but thats good because i don't really care much about the wank factor...the thing is i can remove the airbox cover when i head onto the track so it works well for me....

I see...well...in that case...its not so bad...i'll give it a go then...

I thought it was possible especially if you have braided/flexible lines...remove the 4 nuts and pull the turbo out slightly to remove the gasket and replace it...is that correct?

Hows the ride quality on those shocks?

Bores at 83mm? hmmm...seems like you have a rb23 there...interesting...

There are heaps available...GCG highflow, Sliding Performance or the usual Garrett or even HKS suspects...i think the answer is.......SEARCH....

Could just be a lot of crud built up in the radiator thats causing that...give it coolant a flush...drive it for awhile a monitor the car...

If you must have it...then mount it on the FMIC pipe behind the front bar...post cooler...it will be fine and as loud as a cheap whore putting on a show...

That would be the logical thing to do...i'd put money on the pump being abit crook...and for the money to get a dyno run...you could cover around half the price of the pump already...just my opinion though...

Mate...Just for safety i'd get a new fuel pump first...i blew an engine because my fuel pump was crook and i didn't know it...car ran fine and drove really well...but the afrs were lean due to the pump...a pump is a support mod and should always be changed when unsure....

Why is plumbing it back not an option? You can get plumback attachments for the ssqv...and yes...the fin inserts will change the sound...just google it up and see which one is the one to get so you do not get that high pitched sound you don't want...but thats kind of the reason why people get the ssqv in the first place...

Fuel pump FIRST...as soon as possible...90% of all old fuel pumps would be on their way out...you don't want it leaning your mixtures out so much that it causes engine damage...

Sounds like things are in order...have a look at the rb20 results thread...you can see how other rb20s with different turbos have done...i would say though that for around 240rwkw or so...a hks gtrs or td06-20g or similar would give decent results...and be alot more responsive than the GT30...

What ecu, injectors, fuel pump and so on...it will be a slug down low as the turbo does seem rather large so power probably will not come in till much later in the rev range...if 240rwkw is all you are after there are more responsive choices than a GT3082...

Flanges/adaptors are the same for rb20/25/26s...but if you want to use it on a 26 you'll need 2 of them...