limpus

^^^ For those who don't understand jibberish: dis = this da = the wen = when dey = they wid = with And let me guess...you have an atmo bov...if you do then thats why you're having stalling issues...and you're making 213rwkw without a proper ecu? *cough cough*

Its a long shot...but could it be blow-by at higher revs being injested into the intake and causing detonation...thus causing the knock sensor to retard timing and hence less power? Also...afrs of around 10ish seems alittle rich to me...that would hold power back too...

Didn't you just by the bootlid off someone else on ns.com? Or is it a different one? Still available?

What plugs were you running before the tune and what heat range were they? I got my car tuned by Sam too and he changed my plugs to V grooved plugs with heat range 7...the car did not like it and idled like sh!t...i've since gone back to standard heat range 6 coppers gapped at .8mm and idle improved heaps...still sputters slightly but alot better...speak to sam...he'll know how to sort it out for you...

Wow...are you serious? thats pretty damn decent for a older motor...

Sounds like a problem i had with my old silvia. The problem in my case was that there were 3 damaged wires going into my ecu which was shorting against one another. Maybe just have a look at the wires in that area. Its unlikely but worth a shot.

grandmasterb...if one were looking for quicker response instead of more top end then would 256s be ok? and huddy...didn't you have a 2530 on your car and not a 2540?

Thats one bloody long list you have there...it will be a totally different car when you get it back...let us know how she goes...cheers...

A wet test usually will give higher results...it seems that all the cylinders have given a higher comp reading in this case...cylinder 4 seems to have a slightly higher result which might indicate alittle more ring wear than the other cylinders...but defninitely not enough to be of concern in my opinion...i was always told that anything around 30-40psi increase (depending on the test gauge) is normal for a wet test on a relatively healthy engine...i could be wrong though...i guess you have to remember that it is a used car after all...and since you said its a 98 model means that its about 9 years old...rings will wear eventually...good luck...

Seems pretty decent to me...10% variation is acceptable when it comes to comp tests...so looking at those results the variation is within acceptable limits...who did the comp test? Did you test 4 & 6 again to make sure those readings were consistant? Sometimes you might not get a proper seal when you screw the gauge in and that gives lower readings... Why do you say the results are high? Rb25s have slightly higher comp ratios so that seems fine as well...

Perfect example of the blind leading the blind...

Different gauges will give different readings...its the difference between the 6 readings which you should worry about...in this case...if its giving an even 180 across all 6 cylinders then it would appear the engine is healthy...

Hi Guys, When i got my car dyno tuned...the cam gear settings on my rb20det were set to IN+3 and EX-6 degrees and tuned from there...i have searched true threads on cam gear settings and the most readings at most i have heard of guys going to IN+2 and EX-4 on their cam gears...i was just wondering...what is the effect if you happen to advance the inlet cam too much and retard the exhaust cam too much? Car is a R32 rb20det with a HKS2535 and all the usual support mods... Cheers...

Ok...i do believe your gains with the 34 cooler...i have had my car a RE customs before and i believe your power outputs...personally its still not the path i would choose or have chosen...but that is my choice...as for your comment on a heat soaked pod...a pod cannot get heat soaked...the air snd pipes in your engine bay would be heat soaked though...along with the smic...however...once you start moving again for a short distance you will be getting slightly cooler air into the engine bay...so the so called "heat soaked pod" will be ok...but the heat soaked cooler will take awhile to cool down...

While the rad fan might be blowing hot air over the pipe...its more likely the heat from the engine/turbo/exhaust manifold thats causing the pipes to heat up more... Another solution for this will be to get a fmic with the inlet and outlet on the same side and use the standard pipes...such coolers are becoming more common nowadays and are very affordable...

Heat soaked pod? Hahahaha... Seriously...i can't believe some of the nonsense you're spewing...

Seems like some credible results there...but for the price of a smic and the modifications i still reckon its more practical to go for a fmic kit as they are getting very affordable nowadays...

Getting an fmic does not warrant an ecu...although some sort of ecu will probably be best...if you keep your boost to 12psi...i don't see any problem...provided you are not running mixtures that are too lean...have you got a fuel pump yet? if not...i'd get one asap...even before considering a fmic...fuel pumps on 32s are VERY old now and will most likely be on their way out....

Pics of plenum please? I take that its for a r32 as well?

Just use the one with the straight ends...its cheaper and works fine...cheers...

^^^ Thats exactly what i did to mine as well...good job...only difference is that i bought the pipe with the BOV plumbback and breather fittings already welded on...which made it a pain to adapt to the standard hoses...but nothing a bit of backyard ingenuity couldn't fix...

Its funny that this topic should come up now...i'm wondering if this exact thing is happening on my rb20 with a hks 2535...apparently some 2535 users have complained about surging...

Factory fuel cut...anyone who says otherwise has NFI...as mentioned...some sort of aftermarket engine management will stop that...or even a fcd...

89 R32 GTST RB20DET 3" turboback exhaust Hybrid FMIC Apexi power intake hidden in airbox HKS2535 Bosch 040 Adjustable cam gears Turbotech bleeder DR DRIFT remap 202rwkw @ 17psi (Graph up soon)

Definitely not worth it if for now as you will have to remove the turbo to swap manifolds...that alone is enough reason not to....