limpus

Hey fellas, I've got an issue with a hks 2535 which i have just installed on my R32 gtst...everything seems to be in order with no leaks in lines or piping but there seems to be an issue with the boost...it is EXTREMELY laggy and only starts to create positive boost above 3500rpm...which is late even for a rb20...then theres the main problem...after about 5500rpm or so...the boost just skyrockets uncontrollably and doesn't stop rising...i've accidentally hit 1.2 bar on it...the turbo has an adjustable wastegate actuator by the way...can someone shed some light on this please?

Was that rubber hose for the coolant feed or for some other feed/drain line...my issue is that my hose sits very near to the dump pipe which we all know gets REALLY hot...

What a coincidence...i just got my hks 2535 on today too...that line at the back was a pain and was the only line that did not come with my turbo...what the turbo did come with was a barbed nozzle pointing towards the back of the engine...i was desperate to get the car running and with all the shops closed i had to go bush mechanic style on the thing...i got some high temp rubber hose and squeezed it onto the barbed nozzle and secured it with a hose clamp...i then chopped off about 20cm of the hard line and pushed the hose over the hard line and secured it with 2 hose clamps to stop leaks...its dodgey i know but i had to get it running...i'll probably try to get a proper braided line made up sometime soon as that hose is only rated to 150 degrees and probably won't last long... If you come up with some other solution to that please let me know...cheers...

Good to know...thanks fellas...

Thanks SK...so am i right to say that i can just go ahead and bolt everything up as the restrictor i speak of is not required as its already in the core?

Quick question for the more technically inclined: I'm putting a HKS2535 onto my rb20 tomorrow...I know that ball bearing turbos usually require a restrictor in the oil feed...my question is since the the stock turbo on the rb20/25 is ball bearing anyway...will i still need an oil feed restrictor? I'm using a braided line that came with the turbo and I'm unsure of what the internal diameter of that line should be...would the standard holes in the banjo bolts be enough to restrict the oil flow for the new turbo? Cheers...

If you already knew a fair bit about stuff then you wouldn't even think about asking such an absurd question...

Your dyno charts are very interesting...but abit suss...looking at the graphs for the rb25 and the ca18...they were both running your TR43 yeah? how can a ca18det spool up the same turbo faster than a rb25? From the graph the ca18 makes more power across the entire midrange from about 90-130km/h...that is very weird...but good results none the less...please comment...

Bwahahaah....dave you post whore...i remember there was a time someone was hanging Sh!t on me for having a kitted car...now look whos talking...but that said...car looks great and seems to be driving better than ever...catch ya soon bro...

Nice install...how about more details...what turbo? engine work? and so on?

Sliding performance highflow or gcg highflow would be a better option...the guy who sells them ain't exactly clued in and in my opinion thats enough of a sign to find other alternatives...

An apexi avcr is NOT engine management...its a boost controller...and as i mentioned...jap tuned ecus are usually useless here in australia because they are tuned for very rich air fuel ratios and higher octane fuel...if they can be retuned then it might work...but in the end it'll just be like a remapped ecu...in the end...you have 3 simple options for engine management...piggyback(safc, emanage and the like)...remap(dr drift remap) or stand alone(power fc or similar)...i'm guessing your car has a mines tuned rom in it since you're so keen on finding out about it...speak to your local tuners to see if it can be retuned...if not bin the thing...

Ok...in terms of support mods you seem to be on the right path...you will need some sort of programmable engine management...as for the turbo to get...look at the rb20 turbo upgrade thread...you will be able to see how others are doing and follow the same path...

I did tell u something constructive...you really won't be able to get much out of the mines ecu if you can't tune it to suit your car...how about you ask proper questions before you have a go at me? Good size for what? 300hp? 500hp? What do you already have? and what do u mean by parts needed? parts for the swap alone? or parts to support the new turbo? and then...it also depends on what turbo you want to get...which will determine what parts you need...thats why i said search first...how do you expect people to help if you aren't clear?!

Do a search before people start flaming you...and the mines ecu will be pretty useless unless you can get someone to tune it...

Have a look at the car on this link and then tell me if its a downgrade to go to a 32gtr... Clicky

Its fine...just upgrade it...you don't have to worry about anything if its just a dump pipe upgrade...

I'm not really a fan of an SR but i have to admit that they do produce the numbers too...they also do have more torque than the rb20... Screwball...the question is...why do u want to change it to an SR? is it because it sounds "better"? because thats probably wrong...if its because u want to improve the handling and weight distribution...perhaps...if you want to be different...don't bother because its been done several times...and if its just because u want an SR...then don't destroy a perfectly good 32 and buy a silvia instead...

^^^ Lolz...well...if its set to standard and your car was tuned at 15 degrees then it would be ok...i'd just be careful...too much ignition timing and high boost is a recipe for disaster...good luck...

Its definitely do-able...but i see one problem with your first post...a sr20det sounds more impressive than a rb20det? seems to me that theres something not quite right there...

AFC is an air fuel controller...which allows the adjustment of your fuel mixtures...afms are air flow meters...without telling us what you have on the car we won't be able to tell you if you need an afm upgrade like a "Z32 AFM"... Also...we won't be able to tell you which ecu is the "best quality" because that is too vague...its like asking which cloud is the fluffiest...you want max power but still be safe? then find a good tuner...thats the most important...but remember...even a safe and well tuned car thats pushed too hard will sustain some damage or get tired after awhile...

I don't really see a problem with that...

Same problem here...have an 040 and i'm getting the same problems on start up too...and it gets really noisy on hot days too...

I've been toying with the idea of a "cheater" rb20 too...and i'm leaning towards getting the 82mm tomei pistons...can someone tell me whats the maximum piston size we can use for a rb20 block? Can 4a-gze pistons can be used with the standard crank? and if so what work needs to be done to use them? I'm not keen on the idea of stroking it as i want to keep the short stroke of the rb20 so i'm just looking at boring the block out...

I can vouch for Sam's remaps and his tuning...he's remapped and tuned 2 of my cars to date and i haven't had any problems...for cars with ecus that can be remapped...its extremely good value for money... And 89 SIL...sam sometimes puts a tuned by dr drift sticker on the ecu cover if he's done a remap but thats not always the case...