limpus

Changing to another car midway through the season would make a difference depinding on the quality of the car...but yes i agree the driver makes a bigger difference...regardless...lets not get into this now... Well done Russ...you've been flawless all year...congrats and go the rb20!!

Theres an error with my results where i was penalised wrongly for hitting a cone which didn't happen...who do i speak to about it? Ryan or Leon perhaps? Also...i think that next year the rules should go back to how it was before where if you change your car mid season you should be penalised...

^^^ Bastard!!! Got me there!!! LOL!!!

Or are you up playing GT5 like the rest of us? Lol...

Ok...at the risk of getting my post changed into something to amuse the community...where are the results? it used to be out in 3-4 days tops...its been over 8 days now? whats going on?

If this happens i'm definitely down to show my support!! hehe..

Massive thanks to all the organisers and volunteers for another great event and a great year at Deca... Bring on the results...

Nah...he'll still be at red bull as the NO. 2 driver getting his arse handed to him by vettel...

WOOHOO!!! GO VETTEL!!! Take that mr jawline!!! Back in your hole as Red Bull's no. 2!!!! And go Petrov!! Sticking it to Alonso after the race and turning into Alonso after he shakes his fist him!!!

Can't see the pics as well but it certainly makes for an interesting choice if my 3076 ever let go...

Everyone seems to have their own opinions here so i'm not looking to sway anyone...but i'll give my own experience with the KU36s... A few months ago i went to a set of KU36s on my supra...245 fronts and 275 rears...and they were terribly dissapointing...harshness on the road and tyre noise were horrendous....but i could live with that...what i could not live with was the wet weather grip...IT WAS ALL OVER THE PLACE...i used to love driving in the wet but these tyres made me so uneasy that i had to literally baby the car around when it rained similar to nismoid...even in the dry i had trouble putting the power down to the ground and they used to just light up after 4000rpm in 1st, 2nd and 3rd...and furthermore...the axle tramp was terrible with these tyres...i dunno about the rest of you but i'd rather sacrifice a bit of outright grip and not break anything in my driveline... Also...the rear KU36s lasted only 4000ks...which is weird because they are usually meant to last a bit longer...i had them on during the cold wet winter months and didn't do anything untoward to chew them out and they still wore out across the the whole width of the tyre...it was so weird that i actually pulled them off and sent them back to kumho for them to look at...still waiting on a reply there...but its suspected that it could be a defective batch...So with the KU36s off i decided to go with a set of cheapo 595SSs to tide me over...and i was really pleasantly surprised...where the car used to have trouble putting the power down it just squats and takes off...albeit with some slight squealing from the tyres...outright wet weather grip has also improved but the tyre doesn't give much warning before it finally lets go...axle tramp has also totally disappeared...both in the dry and wet...however...the 595SSs do have VERY soft sidewalls which makes the rear of the car quite vague when cornering...but its a trade off i guess...soft sidewalls help with tramp but don't help cornering... Back to the KU36s on the front...not long after i got the 595s on the rear...i pulled the fronts off and went back to my old slightly worn hankook evo s1s and instantly felt the difference too...it was just more direct and gave so much more feedback...so much so that i'm thinking of leaving them on for the next deca instead of running the KU36s up front... So thats my experience with the KU36s...i really expected more from them and they were a tad disappointing...they do seem to work very well for some people but i guess it doesn't really suit my setup...and with the 595SSs...for their price they are a brilliant STREET tyre suited for daily and some spirited driving...but don't expect too much when you start asking more from them at the track because thats not what they're made for...

Update: Over the long weekend i disconnected the AVCR and put on an old turbotech boost controller i had lying around...and i am happy to say that once set right the boost holds 21psi all the way to redline...it first climbs to 22psi and then settles at 21psi which is acceptable as this is a manual system after all...so it turns out that the avcr was the cause...i've turned it back down to 19psi because thats what the car was tuned at...will sort out another tune in the future...

Same old discssion...goes to show one thing though...more and more people are picking up on the point that others have brought up time and time again...

Thanks Adrian...always a pleasure reading your posts...

I'd expect it to make as much as a rb30det which is around the 300ish rwkw mark...the only difference is that a 2JZ is meant to have much stronger internals over a dirty 30...

Rolls...with regards to your earlier post...do you reckon the flap is being blown open due to sheer pressure from the exhaust gases from a 3L at higher revs?

Ok hypergear...point taken...i'm tired of arguing with you...lets agree to disagree... and leave it at that... Scotty nm35...yup...you're right...no dodgy dip at the changeover point too....

Agreed...it comes on so early and so nicely...for the 2 years i've had it on the car i have nothing but praise for the way it drives...just that now i wanna turn the wick up a little...you do lose a little response over the sequential twins below 3000rpm but with a small single i still hit max boost and max torque about 800rpm earlier than the twins and with a heap more midrange...

Yup...tried that...i was just tweaking it recently...it sat something like this from 2000rpm onwards at 500rpm increments...48% 48% 55% 60% 68%, 68% 68% and so on till 7000rpm...went as high as 80% while trying it on the dyno but didn't make much difference...

Hypergear...rb25 and 2JZ...big difference...not a valid comparison...just like a lot of your arguements... And from your post...that boost curve isn't what i'd call smooth...this is smooth and this is what i'm after...but at 21-22psi

Lithium...it makes between 295-305rwkw with a nice fat curve depending on the dyno and conditions on the day...and i agree...its not efficient at 30psi...just mentioned it to show it could be done...but it happened because a hose popped off the boost controller...painful affair actually...popped the engine at the track...

Ya...i believe you...if the sun rose in the west and set in the north... I've run 30psi on my turbo accidentally before...it can do it...which proves the turbo isn't the issue...not converting me to a believer...sorry...

If you read my first post...you will see that i do already have that large can actuator...and i also mentioned that boost response curves were pretty similar between the old and new ones...

Well...peak power isn't the aim...area under the curve is the aim...and with consistant boost pressure i'd get more area... The turbine housing can do it...proven here in this thread...http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gt....html&st=20 So the issue is more likely to lie with my setup...and not my turbo...which some people seem to be wishing for...

Since we're all joking here...if i had a million dollars...i'd start a turbo highflow service and claim a gazzzillion KW at 1000rpm... But seriously...if you can find people with 2Js for you to trial your constant R&D and pulling off and replacing turbos on a contant basis and get the results i'm after then i might consider your products...if not...then nah...