limpus

To all the haters...you can say whatever you want regarding this...i've said my piece the other turbos and i stand by it...feel free to keep spouting crap...i've long stood by the motto that you should only dish it out if you can take it... I chose this turbo because other RB30DET members on here have gotten good results on their cars with this setup...and with the 18psi garrett actuator too...yes the 3076R is a tad small for a 3L...i know that...but i chose it because peak power wasn't the aim...maximum response was the aim with 300rwkw in mind...and it does that...no complaints there...also...i wanted to be the first to do a low mount single setup in victoria just to prove it could be done...and i've proven it...have a look in the RB30 thread for some examples...i'm staying out of comparisons between rb25s here as a 2JZ is a whole different kettle of fish...

Hey guys, I'm having a problem with holding boost properly with my garrett 3076r...its ramping up to 21psi but then tapering off to 18psi above 5000rpm...i'd ideally like to have it hold 21psi across the rev range... Setup is a little different though... Toyota Supra 2JZ-GTE Custom low mount manifold Garrett 3076R 56T 0.82 IW with Garrett big can 18psi actuator (preload is set right and its achieving 17-18psi with the boost controller off) 4" intake pipe Sard 280LPH fuel pump FMIC 3" exhaust PFC AVCR I've had the car on the dyno twice trying to get proper boost control but i can't stop the boost from falling off...the rb30det boys suggested using the 18psi actuator which i've got and its still not doing it...the boost curve looks almost idetical with the old smaller 14psi actuator and the bigger 18psi one...its still ramping up very well and 20psi is achieved by about 3300rpm...but then it justs falls off by 5000+rpm...i've tried tweaking the AVCR with numerous different settings and all it does is cause boost to ramp higher (23-25psi) before falling back to 18psi again... Does anyone have any input on this...note that external wastegate is not a valid response...

3037 Pro S is the same as a garrett 3076r but with hks specific housings...i'd go with the 0.87 turbine housing instead though...and like others have said...a really good match for lowish 300kws...

Why insist on a VVTI model? The earlier non vvti ones are just as capable and have a little more support for them...just make sure you get one with the bigger 4 pot brakes...the small 2 pot ones are poo but the 4 pots are just as capable if not more capable than the brembos that came out on GTRs (excluding R35)...

^^^ Nah...the battles look like they favour nimble cars more as more advantage is gained maintaining a high speed thru the slaloms...

No haters here...just realists...no doubt that there are some decent numbers here...the issue is with the claims of how some of these turbos offer better response and so on compared to genuine offerings...

What do you mean that there is no drop in power...FFS...it falls over at 5800rpm...on a turbo claimed to be the similar to a gt35 on a standard rb25...it should not be doing that...again...BS claims... Again...read what i have said again...i said close to or as much to that figure for a 3076...if not then look towards a gt35 instead like i said...i'm not going to go through the entire dyno thread to disprove your BS...like i said...go ahead and claim away...in fact...i'll do it for you... **Hypergear turbos are the best...compared to garrett equivalents they spool faster...make more power...and are cheaper...all on a STOCK engine...***

Except for a proper genuine garrett gt35...be it a 0.63 or 0.82 rear...even a garrett 3076 with a 0.82 or 1.06 rear will make close to or as much as that at 22psi...with better response...on an unopened engine...or stock as you love to say so much...so like so many times before...you've made a false claim and you're wrong.... I'm tired too of pointing out such things...go ahead and claim whatever you want to claim...its up to SAU and your customers to decide...

What turbo is that on the dr drift graph? it also says external gate on the op6 housing...not a valid comparison... For just a little more...people would be silly not to go a 3071 or 3076 every single time...they can be fitted down low in the standard position and be made to look stock...hell...even gt35s can be mounted down low...so stealth is not an issue...and now with the favourable exchange rate to the US dollar...you can get a proper garrett and sleep easy knowing you've got the best product for your money...

United also has 100ron premium e10 at a few select servos in melbourne too...and if tuned for it you will see slight gains...

Payment made for me by angel13th....he'll fax my form in for me tomorrow....

I'll confirm it...you reckoned WRONG.... Like Duncan said...if the bov doesn't get a pressure source when boosting...it creeps open and you lose boost pressure through it...not rocket science here...just common sense....

Why would you agree to do R&D for a product you have bought which has promised results...R&D should be done by the manufacturer before a product is released...not after its sold and failed to meet requirements.... And to hypergear...its BS that a 2530 won't hold 20psi because the rear is too small...even a 2510 or a GT-SS will do 20psi...

Why won't a 2530 hold 21psi to redline? Like the rest said...results are pretty dismal...boost control is poor and response is just as bad...either something is wrong with your engine/tune or the turbo isn't performing as promised...

Its not just the cooler but also the length of piping...just bung any proper core on there...you're not going to notice much difference between the 2...but that core in your link looks like its seen better days... And you will never get rid of lag on a rb20...

Wrong way to ask a question...its not really the amount of psi that will kill an engine...you can run 10psi which is really low and still hurt the engine if support systems are not up to scratch or the tune is off... Look towards power figures more as a rough guide...a rb20det will happily live making 250rwkw all day every day if all is well around it...start getting to the higher reaches of 200 like around the 280rwkw mark and you will head into slightly more dangerous ground...that said...plenty or rb20s nowadays are making power in that region and still surviving nicely...and they cop a beating on a regular basis too...

Brand new Turbotech MBC for sale...everyone knows what these are so don't ask for pics...asking for $25 delivered to anywhere in australia...PM if interested...

Perhaps...own3d i am...

Read the post properly...he wants a larger housing like a 0.82 or 1.06...

Sound performance stuff is branded...they are up there with titan when it comes to supra development with innovative products like a quick spool valve and even a compound turbo setup that works extremely well...can't think of anyone better to use for this particular build...and with issues with some other so called brand names...its a wise choice to use the guys who are actually doing to build to do the manifold too so they can build it to their specs...

There are better threads to read than that one...unless he's after a mythical combo then perhaps he can read that thread...

Looks minor...you'll be fine...

The Blitz item you have seems to have the correct flange on it so its a matter of unbolting the old ones and putting the blitz ones on...and then blocking off the plumback pipes... PS: i'm not against aftermarket BOVs at all but to me the blitz ones and the apexi ones are probably the worst sounding bovs of the lot...

Theres black and then theres brown...theres a difference...

Thanks for fixing up the wrong "WD" ryan...the final round will be close indeed...