Godzilla in NY

I also just found this... an even a simpler way if you don't mind having the boost solenoid far from the turbos. this write up is on a r33gtr: http://www.zenadsl2412.zen.co.uk/InstallingApexiAVCR.pdf

On my gtr the 3 pin plug went to the PFC and the 2 pin plug from the BCK solenoid itself (mine had a two pin plug on the end which has one spade facing vertical and the other horizontally), goes to what used to be conected to the stock solenoid. If your stock solenoid wiring is different, you'll have to cut and solder. hope that helps.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=8&t=92133&st=0

After doing lots of searching and still being left with questions.... I finally installed it myself. B) I was able to study the tubing on a RB26 that was out of a car... It really easy once you know what you're dealing with, last owning a subie I had to understand a bit more about the GTR before attempting this... By following the copper tubing that the actuators were attached to I saw that there was a T to the bottom of the plentum (short hose also with a yellow stripe and restrictor) then continued to the factory solenoid.(this is the hose with the boost restrictor/yellow stripe) The other hose from the factory boost solenoid ends at the air intake(this is the only one I needed to plug since the other cooper tubing will no longer be in use) I didn't have to take anything appart to install the boost controll kit to my 91 GTR. You'll need long angled needle nose pliers to reach the plentum hose and actuator hoses. First I unpluged the short hose from under the plentum(back towards the firewall) and fitted the supplied long vacuum hose to the plentum. I ran this hose over by the ABS unit were I would later mount the BCK solenoid(but not too close, on the firewall), I cut the hose at this location, this plugs to the NO port on the solenoid. I then unpluged the rear actuator hose and fitted a new pice of hose just long enough almost reach the top of the strut tower, I placed a T fitting there running one side to the solenoid and one side to the front actuator.( the front one was easy to reach since I have the biltz filters and was able to just lift the front filter out of the way) My BCK apex-i part 415-A001 came with a harness that plugged in to the solenoid at one end and the factory solenoid plug at the other end(no splicing to the map sensor wiring that plugs to the PFC) and the map sensor that plugs to the PFC. The map sensor hose gets T'ed between the plentum and the fuel pressure regulator( on top right of the plentum towards front) and the wiring gets plugged in to the PFC. There is a big rubber gromet in the firewall(take the plastic cover to expose the computer and follow the thick wire hasness) you'll need to unscrew a few of the clips on the wheel well to push the plastic out of the way enough to guide the map sensor plug through the hole in the engine bay and through the firewall. (I wrapped the sensor plug and a bit of the wire in electrical tape leaving a tail on it to be able to pull it thruogh) I guess you can use a wire coat hanger to help you pull it through, but be careful not to put holes in the electrical wiring...(maybe wrap that in electrical tape also...) I didn't want to risk it so I poked my finger through it enough to be able push the sensor plug a bit and pulled it from the inside of the car. (this gets plugged in to the PFC and is how the hand controller will read boost) I mounted the BCK map sensor next to the factory map sensor. I paid $363 US for the Boost Control Kit. Hope this helps some people. ................................................................................ .................................. or even a simpler way if you don't mind having the boost solenoid far from the turbos. this write up is on a r33gtr: http://www.zenadsl2412.zen.co.uk/InstallingApexiAVCR.pdf

I added some info above^ Am I getting closer?

ok since I'm replying to my self... I hope it at least helps r33 racer Well... it seems I have the Boost Control Kit wired correctly, except for the plumbing... This is what I'm still trying to work out. I did some reading and found out I can't just swap boost solenoids. My BCK boost solenoid did not have to get wired in to the pressure sensor wiring, it pluged in to a harness that pluged in to the factory solenoid plug. here is something I found: (it's for the avcr, but the solenoid plumbing is the same) got it from here:http://www.gtr.co.uk/html/docs/apexi_avc.zip ................................................................................ .................................. This guide will contain some photos of the installation process, for ease of photography I will remove the induction kit and the top intercooler pipe. It is a good idea to have a good look at what you are going to do before you start cutting things. Get it straight in your head where abouts you will be connecting to. Making room. This job would be a hell of a lot quicker if there was some space around the engine so step one for me was to make some space. I removed the induction kit past the Airflow meters, the Intercooler feed pipes and the manifolds that the turbo outlets run from. This gave me a bit of elbowroom and made it a little bit clearer for some photos. If you are not documenting the steps, and now I have done it once, it can probably be done by just removing the pipe that connects the intercooler hard pipe (through the bodywork) to the turbo outlets. (The bit with TWIN TURBO written on it) this gives access to the front actuator. The wastegate actuators look a little bit like a piston and are bolted onto the side of the turbo, there is a rod coming out of the unit connecting to the actuator arm (a bit like a push rod in a radio controlled car) To find the connection points follow the pipes back from the actuators. This will lead you to a brass pipe that runs down the side of the engine behind all of the turbo outlet assembly. This pipe runs from the Plenum chamber around the back of the engine and then to where you can see it. Near the back turbo on the engine side there is a tee in the pipe which feeds the rear wastegate actuator, this should be removed and a new length of pipe put on to it. The other end of this plugs into the other end of the brass pipe near the front wastegate actuator. There should be a tee piece inserted into the pipe near where you will place your solenoid valve. This pipe then plugs into the NO port of the solenoid. The COM port is fed from a pipe, which is run between the two wastegate actuators them selves. These are connected together and then teed off in a similar place to the NO pipe. The point indicated on this picture feeds the NO port the other end of the STD pipe goes to the actuator and is re routed to the COM port line. The COM side of the installation this plug fits to the rear wastegate actuator. Next we need to fix the Pressure sensor to the fuel pressure regulator. The small pipe that goes to the fuel rail from the pressure regulator is a convenient place, so cut this and insert the tee piece. The pressure sensor is located on the fuse box cover and mounted like the instructions recommend (vertical) the filter was put in to the line and the unit screwed to the flexible fuse box cover. (Another plus with using this location is that it is fixed to the car on the pipe so you can’t remove the cover and then forget it. The fixing location for the pressure sensor (with the filter fitted) Note the Pressure sensor feed pipe with the Tee in. You can now put the car back together. The solenoid valve was located by the induction kit and mounted facing forwards. Disabling factory boost. The factory boost controller is located on the left-hand side of the bay by the fusebox. It is about 20mm in diameter with a length of around 40mm there is a plug going into it and two pipes, one on the side and one in the middle at the bottom. This unit needs to be removed and the bottom taken off. There is a spring inside and this needs to be removed. (Unless your car has already been mapped to 1 bar then this will have been done) Then put the unit back together and re mount it. The pipe with the yellow bar on it which mounts to the side of the unit needs to be plugged (push a screw into it) then the pipe is reconnected. ................................................................................ .................................... I've been waiting for a reponse from someone else who claims there's an easier way that this, that would be able to keep the BCK boost solenoid near the stock location. I'll post back.

1. This is an R32GTR, correct? yes 2. The PFC BCK was #415-A001, correct? yes 3. You simply plugged the BKC solenoid plug (2 pin male) into the standard plug (2 pin female), replacing the standard solenoid, correct? yes, didn't use supplied vacuum hoses, just used the ones attached to the stock solenoid...is that ok? My gtr was also missing the restrictor pill..... 4. You did not use the BKC MAP sensor, correct? I did use it and pluged it to the PFC. Don't I have to, to read boost through the hand controller? 5. You did not use the BKC wiring harness, correct? yes, I thought I had to, I don't remember if the BCK boost solenoid could plug directly in to the 2 pin female plug.... Thanks for your help. oh btw....i'm only looking to boost about .90 bar as i'm still on the stock turbos.

newbie saying hello and already bothering with questions... Turns out these pics came in handy since I just picked uyp my boost kit testerday. My solenoid pluged right in to the stock harness, I am reading vacuum and boost, but still working on setting up boost.... Am I supposed to run both the stock map sensor and the PFC boost kit map sensor? I just unpluged the standard sensor and pluged that vacuum hose to the pfc sensor... is this wrong? Thank you.