rb25_vl

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i got a rb25de motor for sale open to offers but hoping for around $800 swap for th700 vn-vp-vq v8 auto trans motor has 85,000km new t-belt gates racing (the blue backed one) oil cooler - orignal rb25det one has a 5 SPEED AUTO also for sale, attached to it at the moment. $250 or both for $950 or i have a white vl commodore which these were all in for sale, i want $1500 for the car and motor its all on ebay, but i rather sell away from ebay http://search.ebay.com.au/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrp...assZvlQ5frb25de

i got the motor no box (only auto) name a price im in nsw close to vic

how much is too much. i got 1 from a r33 with computer and loom

pm'ed

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holden vl exc sl Automatic 2.5L rb25de hi all, i have for sale my rb25de powerd vl commodore with the following rb25 motor with 85,000km, std Nissan ecu vct (approx 147 kw @6000 rpm) (motor specs) std vl rb30 non turbo auto with new uni's in tail shaft, std 3.45:1 5 spoke 15inch mags with bugger all tread left (currently has good tiers but i need them for my Calais sorry ) tacho dash (not pictured only s1 with the squares) with original km (245,582km original speed from non tacho dash, also tacho works with the box made from the tech articles on this forum) blue interior a/c with new gas (very cold) power steering new front rotors with new Bering's new windscreen vehicle was rego-ed with the rb25de motor in it. trans cooler fitted tow bar white in colour will have no problems for nsw rwc as it passed nsw blue slip 1yr and 6mths ago no stereo or speakers but it does have door pods (pics have stereo but they are now in my Hilux) will come with no rego, fresh oil,fresh coolant, new plugs etc, willing to do major service before pick up/ delivery vehicle is almost straight, small stone chips etc small dints nothing major. only pulled vehicle off the road due to a stuffed trans (good trans fitted now) and than i bought a Hilux and a Calais so i have no use for it, unless someone buys the Hilux off me? the motor is currently out of vehicle but can put back in and get vehicle ready for sale in 1 weekend, motor came out originally for a swap for a n/a 3L but never eventuated. engine bay will be cleaned up but not painted. I'm trying to be as honest as possible guys when i had vehicle on the road with the same package, it was unbelievable. 110km to $20 of fuel (at 120c/L) willing to swap for something i can use for the Calais or Hilux (rims with good tyers etc) or a boat or anything relay just wanna get rid of it and either have the cash or something useful for approx same value i can go to Melbourne or Wagga or Albury etc but i don't wanna go much further pics: added pic Asking Price: $2000 ono or swap for something of intrest contact me on 03 5881 8195 or pm me or repily in thread or add me on msn [email protected] car is located in deniliquin nsw 2710 also have a 1994 toyota hilux 4x4 for sale its $7000 ono just emal me @ the above email

bump price drop 1000 still neg

RB25DE MOTOR non turbo for sale with loom from a R33 approx 85,000km 5 of which was done in a vl loom has been changed, just the plug has been removed and a vl one has been added for plug and play in to a vl comes with new t-blet Gates racing 5,000 km old new water pump 5,000km old comes with vl a/c bracket rb30 ballancer for the vl a/c compressor vl power steer bracket and modifyed top cover to mount bracket oil cooler (for turbo) - was going to turbo it but never got around to it no leaks allways serviced and maintained, 2nd hand cas from a membr off this fourum would like $1200 but neg and can deliver to melbourne or surrounding areas. pm me or ring 03 58818195

never run the transmission dry its pritty easy to do but i suggest you get approx 10L or more of fluid before starting remove the trans hose off radaitor (after the radiator/cooler) meaning the cooler will be flushed also. you will need to pump the fluid in as soon as the key is turned on, and i do suggest you get someone on the key. ok once your all set up with the hose off and in a big bucket, one you dont want to use again get your 2nd persion to hit the key. the fliud will now be flowing and you should be adding fluid all the time at this point. also keep an eye on the draining fluid, once you see the fluid change from a brown burnt color to the color of the new stuff thats when your helper shoud key off and stop pumping fluid in. connect up all hoses again and check your level, adjust as nessesery. if its too full than remove the hose again and crank but not start motor. reconect and check level again. --------- DONT MISS THIS STEP----------------- once your happy, go for a spin. come back and check the level again. and your set and about the tranny cooler idea, yes verry good idea, mount it all up after doing the flush and dont use old coolers (there cheep $110 or so for a kit)

just a quick question. is the r33 auto speed sensors smaller than the r32's auto's speed sensor's

not a lot, just std rb25de power 144 kw i think arnt they? it was off the back of a rb25 that a member from this forum had which i bought start of this year.

first and seccond dont wanna work anymore too many burnouts kill auto's there not designed for it.

the trans is in my Vl at the moment and i got everything working minus the ecu and wiring. i got 2 pics from before i picked it up this one is where you can see the major difrence with the extra housing opposite to the spedo drive. this is just the right and side no major diffrences the biggest diffrence is the physical length of the box my vl box and my r32 box are the same length this box i had to remove 50mm from my tail shaft so im quessing its 50mm longer. and the yolk is that same as a vlt manuel yolk or the r33 manuel turbo type. they call the box a JATCO RE5R01A. It essentially a RE4R01A with a different Valve Body (copyed and pated from a email i got)

they will physicaly bolt up getting it to work will be the trickey part, the r34 auto wiring goes in to the engine loom from memory and from the engine loom it goes in to the body loom to the computer. also this is all from memory if you could get a whole 1/2 cut than go for it, but with my experance with putting in my 5speed auto dont bother

i have 3 transmissions, a r32 turbo with no plug also a r33 5speed auto no plug and a vl std non turbo auto no plug why do you need a plug anyways your got to take the pan off anyways! AND ALSO, DO NOT EVER USE SILLICON OF ANY TYPE NEAR OR AROUND THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION. sillicon will swell up and block the small holes required for the fluid to flow through.

where is the model numbers located on a automatic trans?

as above, where can i get a auto transmission ecu wiring digram? google is no help sau dosnt have much on auto wiring at all so im after some help thanks

for a quick flush pull a line off the trans cooler prefer after the cooler for a cooler flush aslo. get a bucket big bucket. get some fluid lots of it. run the car with the hose off and faced in the bucket. at the same time fill the box with cleen fluid watch the fluid comming from the hose in to the bucket and when it comes cleen turn off motor reconnect lines and check fluid level CAUTION: IT WILL TAKE MORE THAN 10L SO HAVE LOTS OF FLUID HANDY 20L of dextron 3 cost me 80 something dollars (been awhile)and it also helps im a mechanic with access to the w/shop on the weekend...

hi all. im after the auto loom from the computer (no including) to well anywhere that i get it to. i do relise it does go through the fuse box . also im after a wiring digram for where it goes form the computer to the box and where it goes in between any help would be nice] thanks

I have a r33 auto one if intrested pm me if you are

i need a tail shaft or yolk. r33 5 speed auto or rb30et manuel mx7 yolk has to be 30 spline in side diameter of approx 31-32mm and out side diameter of 41-42mm seal to seal. any one help, dont wanna pay 100 bucks for a trial and error....... PLEASE HELP ME THANKS

i have a rb30 one on my rb25de

ok so im getting closer to getting my car going with the new trans, and i have been searching the net a bit and came accross a page about a 300z (?) saying that this trans should not use any other fluid than some nissan fluid? is this correct or can i use normal dextron 3. if not what fluid is reccomended

i dont know can you mesure the yolk, in side diameter for me?