rb25_vl

need a yolk to suit a 5 speed auto, the yolk is physicley bigger than a r34 trip tronic and a vl std auto, i just need the slip yolk that goes in to the trans, if needed i can get a size also post to 2710 thanks

ok so i now know that there are 3 or 4 diffrent auto trans missions avable in the 33 range i just bought a 33 box off here and found out its a 5sp auto as of the extra unit on the rear, just off the extension housing, and the fact at a guess i have P...R...N...D...3...2...1 in sted of just the P..R..N..D..2..1 as the 4 spd boxes have and also the trip tronic r34 auto's my main question is i have tried a r34 trip tronic yolk and its the same size as my olf rb30e auto yolk, as in the rb30e auto will accept the yolk with a nice and smoth ristance just like they are ment to be, ok so that works out my friend but im still stuck, im stuck because the yolk i need is bigger in the splinds and also im guessing over all size so out of the r33 autos what part no's are the yolks, or if anyone has a tail shaft for a 5sp auto can i buy it off ya is it the same as a manuel, if so i might get to me mates r33 tomie and steel his, lol just kidding any one got any clue

bump

after a 25de auto computer and loom. i do have the box and wiring to the plugs, as was told that there are other plugs for the computer etc so im after the computer and loom i go a pic of the box if that helps as it has no no.s on the box only on a tag.. im in deniliquin nsw (vic nsw border) ans will travel or pay postage......

ok so whats the diffrences and what computer do i need to go with what transmission is from a r33 half cut rb25 im pritty shure im buying a auto box but dont know what no.s it has on it and such, i have pics if that would help?

also the std dump will bolt stright to the cat so no need for modification but my n/a needed the heat shilding to be moved as it hit the bodey

rb30 vl engine mounts (shimed on the right hand side for break booster clearance vn-vp auto or manuel (cant rember) gearbox crossmember (something like that) std vl tail shaft using the yolk out of the neo,with a diffrent uni-joint to mount to the vl shaft will need to up grade the fuel pump, need to modify the p/steering pump mounting bracket, a/c std vl bracket with washers under for spacers throttle cable i use the std but the cable is much tighter and is wraped diffrentley and looks crap (i thnk the neo has a electric butterfly also but no idea what its for. then the obvious computer and loom needs to be modifyed to work with the vl bodey loom for starter motor and alternator etc (my rb25de) i changed the lower radator hose intake pape (to the motor where the thurmo stat is mounted) to the vl one as i was reusing the lower vl radator hose may also need to do that if u like. i also used a cut lower radator hose for my top hose and the 2.5's are diffrent but u might be able to do something else all in all there isnt much that needs to be done

but i do wanna go rb25det soonish but being a non turbo motor i was thinking of a rb20 turbo running low boost but this is a diff section, i was also thinking of just getting a set of gears to suit my diff

so a pintara diff and spedo drive maybe? what year pintara and does it have to ba manuel i can get hold of a 1987 (r31 looking one) but its manuel

im in deniliquin nsw near the vic border approx 800km form syd and 400km from melbourne

probley been done 100,000 times before but the serch didnt come through ok i dont need to ko now where or how hard it will be to find one just info. ok i have a vl with a rb25de it used to run the 3L (rb30e) auto but its now dead. i have obtained a auto box to suit the 25 and was wondering, what the 3.45:1 diff ratio will do should i get a 4.11:1 diff as i wanna up date to disc and lsd anyways or will i see not a lot of diffrece in spedo readings or will it be more anoying and have no take off and all top end or will it be opposite? any help would be good....thanks

thanks for that exacley what i need and turns out i have the plugs so all should be a plug and play. i just worried about the dash part. does it have to go through the dash?

bump

ok im about to bolt up a rb25 auto behind me rb25de, just wondering where the auto wires run. do they run on there own or do they plug in to the engine loom, also do i need a auto engine loom? or can i tap in to this one.. and where does the auto computer go? im new to the rb25 auto stuff as it was running a rb30 auto n/a but it finaly died any info tips pics would be greatley appreated

pm sent

i am after a auto trans to suit a rb25 (with vvt) and the wiring and trans computer, also after the slector and torque converter. would also like the yolk ok i basically need everything to go in to a vl as my 3L n/a auto just shit it self thank in advance

just wondering what the diff ratio is on a n/a auto r33 rb25de i have a vl with std diff and a rb25de just wanna make it go a bit better and i thought the diff might play a part in this

ill get back to ya

yeah im instrested...will u post or where are u located i might be able to pick up?

after a rb25de crank angle sensor, about a 93 model motor after postige to southern nsw as well also cheep!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!