Andyn

Thanks Guys. I fiddled around with the switch and now it seems to be working fine - touch wood. Down the track I'll prob create a relay though, to make them brighter.

Offer didn't go ahead. Still for Sale. An reasonable offers considered.

I have seen some threads of the headlight switch being faulty. i have pulled it apart. What am i looking at which could be faulty? Nothing looks melted but i have noticed that the middle POT's spring is stiifer than the other two. Also i have noticed two of the connections for the headlight white plug are brown (overheat)?

How is it working now? Does anyone know where I can get a wiring diagram of the factory setup? Also it was working fine last week - it just suddenly happened...? Can you elaborate on create a relay? I want to give this a shot.

Hey guys, This blue (10) fuse keep blowing on my r32 gtst (Fuse box under the bonnet). I have replaced it twice and has blown twice. Once this fuse is blown i cant use the left low or high beam. The right side still works, obviously. Has anyone had this issue before? if so how did u fix it? What would you guys suggest I check to get to the bottom of this issue?

sold!

Hey Sullivan, What, in your opinion, is the condition of it? It came off a track/drift car? Centre bearing spinning evenly and smoothly? uni joints move smoothly? May be interested. Andy

Just after the complete 2 piece in good nick (Brisbane only). Let me know if you have one lying around. Cheers Andy

Abobob - so ur saying the wheels could be causing the vibrations? No i havent tried that Took it to a tailshaft specialist workshop today and they said the centre bearing and mounts are fine, and they said its definately one of the joints which need replacing. They said might as well change it to a 1 piece tailshaft for $400. Bloody expensive. Anyone have any tailshafts for sale? or know where i can get some?

thanks for the feedback. esp cleutin. gives me an idea how much work is involved. how much is the stinger brand sheets u use? Neat looking install btw. p.s i Think ill give the jaycar stuff a go - the only thing with their products is that they dont have adhesive, so will go to bunning for that. Any recommendations on adhesive products?

Hi guys, I'm no audiophile, but do want to 'listen' to music while driving. So i am keen to do some sound deadening just on my doors to improve it a bit. I am looking at getting one piece of this stuff on each door AX3688 from jaycar (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=AX3688&CATID=&keywords=ax36&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=) Normally when u take the door trim off you just stick this stuff on the panel right (under the plastic protector)? Has anyone done this before? How did you find the results? Any comments would be great. The other option was to get the dynamat stuff for $150 to do both doors.

Motoman: Where from? I got quoted $90 for the bearings!!!

Hey looks like I may have an issue with my tailshaft, as im getting vibrations from the rear at about 60km/h. Not as noticable outside this. I have taken it to a knowledgable mech and they narrowed it to realignment the tailshaft. I spoke to some guys who specialise in Tailshafts and they said normally the middle bearings are shagged (r32 gtst). Has anyone realigned and/or replaced the middle bearing of their tailshaft? Im just after rough costs at this stage. Cheers.

It was instant windscreen - 132 444. nsm034 - I am just wondering can the seals (for front windscreen) be taken off and reused/reglued? If that is the case I will get them to just take the original one off and reglue it on. However one of the guys said once they are off it will be ugly to get them back on and the sticky material wont work anymore. If u try to glue it down it will be uneven. This could be bs so I install "NEW" seals, but just wanted to hear from those who have done it before. The optimal and cheapest method, is to just reglue them on, but want to make sure this is doable. Any experience guys?

Bump!

anyone?

Nobody has done this?

Just wondering if you would recommend any mechanics who have had a bit of experience in skylines, in Brisbane? Also any places have the consult port to see what the ecu is reading in for my r32gtst? After a few small things done and a general checkup.

what exactly is a pod shroud? is it the metal bracket that connects it to the body, or is it the cai cover?

Just wondering if anyone has resealed theirs and how much it costed them. It looks like my car has had a respray and they pulled out the windscreen seals and just put them back on without glueing them down. So now when im driving air picks up under these seals and creates a whistling noise. See pict attached - its like this down the side too. I called up a place and they said they would charge $165 to take those off and put new universal seals. I just want to use the originals and just get them to glue them back on. Anyone done this? The whistling is starting to give me the sh!ts.

actually it may not be the clutch after all, as u said dobz. I turned her on in the morning, and it was back idling and running normal. Come to think of it when it was idling at 1.8k, it sounded the same but just said on the tacho 1.8k. Possibly some faulty electronic?

wonder how this relates to it fixing itself after driving on the highway for a bit? Hotter = more grip possibly?

Just a thought - could it be the clutch slipping?

Hey all, I noticed the car was revving higher than morning this morning. I started the car and it idled at 1800revs, which is higher than normal. Then i drove on the highway doing 100 (normally i am in 5th gear revving about 3000revs) and this morning I was in gear 5 doing 100 and it was revving at 4.5k revs. When i put my foot on the gas the revs jumped up quicker than normal. Something funny is happening. I cleaned out the aac valve and the afm but it still does it. This happens now and then. THe last time this happened it corrected itself suddenly as i was driving (then from that moment it revved normally). The only thing i can point it to is the mines tuned ecu I have. Any ideas guys?

Someone mentioned that if its a certain type of Import you need further adr testing? I dont remember the exact type he mentioned though. There was: 15 year old, personal import... $120 - this is pretty much like a racq rwc check i assume? Would they say anything about a fmic, pod (no box) - does this need to be attached to the car, boost controller?