Johnny Cash

Sounds like something I might have to get my bro to look into next time he comes down...

Well it certainly looks like a lot of words and fancy pictures. Pity I know nothing about this sort of stuff. If I can't fix it with a screwdriver and a hammer, then it's beyond me. Multimeter? I wish!

Okie dokie I didn't mean take the AAC off (as that would obviously leave a giant gaping hole out the side of my inlet manifold). What I meant was disconnecting the plug that goes to the AAC.

Thanks pal. I took the AAC off the car and cleaned the sh*t out of it with carby cleaner, got it looking real schmick. Then I put it back on and hey presto - no difference... I heard that disconnecting it can correct the problem, but then it runs a certain rpm idle no matter if A/C is on or off. I would rather fix the problem properly, if I can. Thanks a bunch for your help.

Just as well you told me that, cos I wanna go spray it from both sides! What if i spray it from the wrong side first, then from the right side? Or should I just not bother, and only do the front side? Should I stand it up when I spray it, or hold it horizontally? Thanks all.

I'm going with an electric contact cleaner from Jaycar (as mentioned earlier in this thread). Will let you all know how it goes in my other post under 'general maintenance'.) ...let the insanity begin...

LOL stick with petrol, or the sheiks will beg for money.

Well, I'm being told that carby cleaner will leave a residue, and that will attract dirt to it and clog up the afm sensor again. Whereas the brake cleaner evaporates and doesn't leave any residue. Either way, I'll use ONE of them, and if it fixes my stalling problem, I'll at least know that's the cause of the problem. Thanks, Adrian.

Can someone PLEASE clarify once-and-for-all which is the best cleaning agent for the inside of an AFM? - Electric Contact Cleaner - Brake Cleaner - Carby Cleaner. I'm looking to do it TONIGHT, and want to know what to buy. Thanks, Adrian.

Just took my car for a spin and had a thought: I noticed that when the boost gauge reads -0.6 on idle, the revs are around 650-700rpm. However, after driving then clutching in, the boost gauge drops to around -0.8, then slowly comes back up to -0.6. My question is - is this cause or effect? Is the low boost gauge reading causing rpm fluctuation, or is rpm fluctuation causing varying boost level readings? Or are both of these effects of the same cause?

Nope, didnt think I would need to. It's idling unevenly and RPM hunting, it's not a matter of it idling too low. Unless the low idle is causing it to rpm hunt???

I've been told to check ECU diagnostic fault codes? Will give this a go. Has anyone else had any luck doing this???

Just got confirmation NOT to use electrical cleaner inside AFM. So it will have to be carby cleaner then... wish me luck!

Electrical cleaner or carby cleaner? which one to use inside the afm???

As an update, I cleaned the AAC, it's sparkling inside now. Put it all back together without a drama, and it still stalls. Other causes I've read about are as follows: AFM dirty or oily Fuel Pump earth wire Fuel Filter clogged Throttle Position Sensor needs adjusting Crank Angle Sensor needs adjusting I'm going to attack my AFM with carby cleaner tonight and see if that makes any difference. If it STILL stalls, I'll look into disconnecting the AAC plug, and check if that stabilized idle. If it does, I might not bother re-connecting it. I'm also planning on changing fuel filter, and fitting iridium spark plugs. Will eventually find the gremlin, then I'll let you all know

Yeah, pics would be good. So if i take out my AFM, spray carby cleaner inside it (where the little tonsil sticks out in the tube of the AFM), wait a while for it to dry then put it back together, it should run better??? I already cleaned the AAC, so I'm working my way through the list.

Item sold to ME!

PM sent in furtherance of purchase!

Just found out that with the A/C on, it wont stall. So I'm writing it off to an rpm setting issue, and will turn up the revs on the old girl, see if that sorts it out. Will post the results on here either way. Thanks, Adrian.

Heya all, Same old problem. Drive around, then put it in neutral. Car drops to around 500rpm, then stalls. I cleaned the AAC like nobody's business, and still no luck. I'm running an aftermarket BOV, but am plumbing it back. Visually inspected the AFM and it seems fine. Is there any way to tell if it is the cause of the problem? If I can't fix it myself, I'll have to fork out big dollars to get everything inspected one step at a time. I've heard rumours of an idle speed control solenoid, air regulator or throttle position sensor, but the details on them were sketchy at best. Please help me out, Thanks, Adrian.

Argue all you want, one thing is clear - we'll all be watching it again this weekend!

yeah, and it's only going to get worse...

Yeah, I'm loving it, R33 GTR's are now into the low 30s, high 20s... Why buy a 32 gtr?

PM sent

Payment made for Apexi Strut bar suit R32. Please confirm receipt of payment as send item to address given in PM. Thanks, Adrian.