Johnny Cash

I'm a lawyer... lets argue it in the courts.

Has anyone ever plugged in an ecu with the battery still connected and NOT fried it? Just wondering what my odds are on the ecu's survival at the hands of my stupidity...

It now seems I may have destroyed my ecu by plugging it in with the battery still connected. There really should be a warning about doing this. It may not be as obvious as one might think. And I may have just destroyed an otherwise very valuable ecu in the process... remains to be seen. I browsed a LOT of forums, and never once did I read anything about disconnecting battery before swapping ecu. Oh well, live and learn I guess.

Just found out, to disconnect battery then press brake pedal a few times to drain whats left in the reserves. I f*cken hope this works... Yeyah.

Cool, will do. If I still have no luck, does that mean this ecu wont work on my car?

I'm sure you guys have gone over this a MILLION times, but I couldnt find anything in the forums, so here goes: How do I reset ecu? Is it as simple as disconnecting the battery then re-connecting? I swapped ecu's with the battery connected and now it won't start. Biggest concern is I've fried the replacement ecu, smallest concern is the old one should still work. So let me know, cos I'm stressin' !

How do you reset ecu?

Have you got the instruction manual for the avc-r? If not, I think apexi's usa website has them for download. They might tell you in there how to change base setting.

Whats the going rate on auto glym? my ride's looking a bit dull, and whoever owned it before me buffed it with a machine and its got swirl marks all throughout the paint. Also, would you need to get the specific colour of the car polish, or just a general polish? If it cuts into the paint, I don't think there'd be much paint left underneath...

Where did you bring it back to Australia from? Other countries have better fuel than we can get, so it might be that you're using a poorer grade of fuel. Changing exhaust would help, because it wouldn't be as free flowing.

Sounds a bit high. My 32 gts-t sit on around 900ish

hey fellas Just wondering what the dial is for the on the side of the stock 32 ecu? I just discovered it today. Thinking to turn it up, but not sure what it'll do, and I figure at least ONE of you would know. Thanks, Adrian.

Just heard back from GCG about rebuilding my rb20 turbo's internals. $1950 later, they can do it. I would rather buy two replacement motors.

Fair call. Sorry buddy, kinda got caught up.

If your wastegate was opening at idle, would explain why you're disappointed with power output! My suggestion, after reading that comment, is to take ur ride to a mechanic and get it fully inspected, to make sure everything is running right. No use flogging a dead horse.

Does the rb25 turbo still have ceramic components? This is my main gripe.

That may be the case legally speaking, but practically, how do you track these guys down for a refund? It's ridiculously easy to create false accounts on eBay to sell stuff, and eBay is VERY reluctant to reveal its users details even when they are fraudulent. There really is little guarantee, and a LOT of scams going around. I had one guy who copy-and-pasted an item I was selling and said it was his. Luckily someone notified me, and I was able to contact the winning bidder and let them know that it was a scam before he lost a LOT of money!

What it REALLY means is dont buy a car worth around $35,000 unless you get insurance for it, or are an oil shiek.

Obviously not quick enough if you're still asking $1000

I know, 'Hyper Performance' has jipped me on a skyline high flow cat... Not worth taking up with eBay, as it was only $159 including postage. That said, I might take it up anyway, just as a hobby...

Yeah, I bought a high flow cat from hyper performance on eBay, he sent me a WRX one instead. So I sent it back and asked him to send me a Skyline one instead... haven't heard a word since. Damn eBay!

He had a 33 GTR and no insurance?

In that case, where do I line up?

Yeah, I've seen people on ebay selling rb20 / r32 turbos that they say are "t3" or "roller bearing", and they claim that these turbos are good for 14 psi, or over 200kw. Are they talking sh*t, or did nissan make different turbos in the 32 range? Cos if that's the case, then it may just be a matter of working out exactly which turbo is on my 32.

Yeah, but like I said, I'm happy to sacrifice HP to promote an improved power curve, and reduce lag. Hence I'm thinking to keep the small rb20 turbo. Just want to be able to spin it at 14psi without little bits of ceramic coming loose. I've got a different approach to tuning my 32. If there was a rebuild kit or a place that would rebuild it with more durable internals for around the $400 mark, I reckon I would take it up. Would just have to upgrade fuel pump then.