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Johnny Cash

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Everything posted by Johnny Cash

  1. I like the recipe! Where can I get a FMIC for $460 delivered? That's tempting as all hell. I reckon the air filter insert should be enough for now, no need to go pod filter. As for bleed valve, I'd rather save up the extra and get a proper electronic boost controller. Would probably go the fuel pump at the same time, I don't wanna lean out. So I'm probably looking at 160rwkw at around 12psi, which is still happy times!
  2. So, ONLY with Front Mount Intercooler, Pod Filter, and Boost Controller (boost up to 12psi), I should hit 150rwkw. I should be able to secure all of that for around $1200. Maybe I could do all of that as a first stage, and run 10psi initially. Then later on I can get the fuel pump and pressure regulator, front pipe and dump pipe, high flow cat and fuel computer. That should safely allow for 12psi on the stock RB20 turbo. That'll also help break up the cost, and that way I'll also be able to notice the gradual improvement. Sounding better by the minute.
  3. How are you getting that much just with front mount? Are you using a boost controller to get the extra boost? I don't understand how just fitting an intercooler would allow that much extra boost. What rwkrw does a stock r32 put out?
  4. I'm thinking that if I stay at 12psi I can use the stock RB20 turbo, which will save mucking around. Also want to keep the stock airbox, as I've already got an Apexi Power Intake Filter insert in it, and don't wanna switch to a pod filter if I can avoid it. Thinking to do: FLYING PERFORMANCE 3" Front and Dump Pipe in 1 3" High Flow Cat (eBay job) HYBRID Front Mount Intercooler Kit BOSCH 040 Fuel Pump Fuel Pressure Regulator (not sure which brand yet or where to get one from) APEXI SAFC-2 Fuel Computer GREDDY Profec-B Spec 2 Boost Controller Should cost me around $2500 in parts, then obviously whatever installation and tuning costs in addition. If I can get over 160rwkw I'll be happy, but the magic figure is 170! Stay tuned...
  5. How come VG30? Isn't that the older turbo from the 3 litre that was used in the VLs? I would have thought the turbo from the R33 would be a better choice. Maybe I'm wrong. I was thinking that for only 12psi, I could get away with stock turbo. Guess not.
  6. Dammit, I would have grabbed it for my 32. I'm in Mildura too!
  7. That doesn't sound right. Maybe you've already got an aftermarket turbo kit fitted or something. That, or you're running WAY too much boost, and your motor is going to pop open any second. I can't see the bov making much difference. Either way, I don't like it.
  8. You're my hero! That's exactly what I wanted to hear. Now I just gotta make up my mind as to whether I spend the extra $3000 - $4000 to get all of those mods. Thanks again, Adrian.
  9. What the hell is a Dr Drift chip? First I heard of it.
  10. Hey Nathan! What happened with that 33 you got? Surely you're not gonna get it on the road, it's too crazy. Well, after hearing all the comments, I think the following is necessary to SAFELY provide for 170rwkw: Fuel Pump Fuel Pressure Regualtor Air Flow Meter Pod Filter Intake R33 Turbo Front Mount Intercooler Front Pipe Dump Pipe High Flow Cat Catback Exhaust ECU Boost Controller Now I'm thinking this is all gonna cost a lot more than I wanted it to. Oh well, might have to do it a bit at a time. Save the boosting for last... see how I go. Thanks for all your help, Adrian.
  11. Heya all, Just wondering what the quickest and cheapest way to 170rwkw is, bearing reliability in mind (as much as possible for an R32!) I think that's more than enough power for a 32, bearing in mind they come stock with 160kw at the motor! Mine is pretty much stock now, power-wise, save for a catback exhaust and Apexi filter insert, and it already goes alright. So I think such a power-jump will be more than enough (being sensible about things). I think the following would fit the bill: 3" Front Pipe and Dump Pipe (Probably the 'Flying Performance' style 2-in-1 job). Standard Cat Convertor? (Do I need to change to hi-flow?) 3" Catback Exhaust with Turbo Muffler R33 Turbo (Rebuilt) Electronic Boost Controller (eg. Greddy Profec-B Spec II) Fuel Computer (eg. Apexi SAFC-II) Fuel Pump (eg Bosch 040) Sports Intake Filter (Filter Insert in Stock Airbox) Front Mount Intercooler (probably just a Hybrid Kit). Let me know your thoughts on what else is needed, or on what is not needed, as you think fit. I think it's pretty spot on, but I figured the skyliners out there that are already pumping 170kw at the wheels would know better than me Thanks, Adrian.
  12. Hell, this forum was has blown up! Not being rude, but I could start my own forum site on kit cars, I've been into them for years, and had an article on kit cars published in unique cars. The countach kits that have the lexus V8 motor in them are very expensive, and people that have them ask around $60,000 to $80,000. The ones around the $35,000 mark normally have the standard Pontiac Fiero 6-cylinder engine. Some people drop 350 Chevs in them, and they make plenty of power. A trend that becoming more popular is to use the 5 litre V12 out of the BMW 850's, but this is still a pricy option. I've always wanted the Countach, over and above any other car (include those worth four times as much). It's my dream car. The GTST / GTR argument was more immediate. I'm not planning on getting the kit car for a few more years, whereas the GTR I could get as soon as this year.
  13. Good point. I guess it comes down to a matter of money over anything else. If you can afford a nice GTR, then why bother with a GTST. On the other hand, if you can't afford a GTR, then get a GTST, put a few mods on it, and you've still got a ball of fun. Cheers for all your input.
  14. Sure is, my favorite car. I've been checking into them, and it seems I can pick a used one up without much hassle for around $35,000 to $40,000. I know that's a lot more than a 32 GT-R would cost, but we're not talking about a Skyline anymore.
  15. Not too much at the minute, but I figured I could do the swap in a years time or so, all things going according to plan. That said, as I wrote earlier, I think I'll just hold off on the GTR idea as well as the modded GTS-T. Besides, if I wanted a modded GTS-T, I could buy one off the forums for around about as much as I could sell my relatively stock one for, so in any event, it's still not worth it.
  16. Thanks for all your input on this topic, everyone. Thinking just to hang onto the GTS-T for a few years, sell it and buy a daily-driver (something like a VT Commodore), and buy a kit car Countach from the U.K. I have loved the Countach since I was young, and it's been my favorite car since. Even though I'm a lawyer and everyone goes on about how much we make, I don't think I'll be able to afford the $100,000+ for a real one, so it's gonna be a replica. As for people that implied all sports cars have maintenance troubles, that's simply not true. But 15 year old race cars that have been sitting in Japanese docks for some time are more likely to have worn or rusted out components than other sports cars. Like anything, the more you spend, the better your sports car is going to be. It's got less to do with being a 'sports car', and more to do with the condition it's in, and how much it costed respectively. But like I said, thanks for all your help.
  17. I'm actually married, and am renting my own place, looking to buy a house in a year. So don't smart-ass me, boy.
  18. Heya all, I'm at the point in skyline ownership where I'm stuck between two schools of thought, and thought I would open it up for consideration. I WAS planning to do the usual GTS-T mods: turbo, intake and exhaust, intercooler, fuel pump, boost controller, GTR front bar, hood and seats, and so on. But then I crunched the numbers, and it seems I would end up dropping around the $20,000 mark including the car itself. Nowadays, that seems to be able to get you a GT-R without much hassle. And they're a hell-of-a-lot quicker than a stock GTS-T, but probably slower than a GTS-T with mods to bring it to a GTR's price-tag. Then there's the maintenance cost. An RB20 is much easier to look after than an RB26. Let's face it, we've got 1 less turbo and 5 less throttle bodies. Also no 4WD to pack up and cost stacks of money to repair. Then again, a GTR purist can turn around and say "yeah, but at least once it's working, I've got it and you haven't". Obviously, even with a GTR, you're going to want to modify it (probably spending around the $5000 - $10000 mark), and that would ALSO have to be money added to the GTS-T. At which point, you would have one insane GTS-T. But then again, it's still just a GTS-T... you see my dilemma. As you can see, I've done some thinking on the topic, but thought that with all the GTR and GTS-T owners on this forum, you could all help shed light on this issue. Thanks fellas, Adrian.
  19. Have bought a radio - Thanks to everyone for their replies. Adrian.
  20. I'm looking to buy an aftermarket 2-din radio from a guy who had it in his 33. He had plugs made up so it can just click-in. Was hoping it could just be a plug-in trick for me as well. Oh well. Thanks anyway.
  21. Hey guys. I'm looking at getting a radio from an R33 and putting it into an R32. Is this just a simple plug-and-play, or is there any hassle? Thanks, Adrian.
  22. Hey, tried to call you, no luck. Willing to pay $500. Let me know. Got other decks I'm looking at. I got family in Adelaide who can pick it up for me.
  23. Heya all. My factory radio only works on AM, the cassette and cd are buggered. Hence I'm on the hunt for a double din cd player to fill the stock space. Don't mind if it's a Jap radio, cos I don't listen to radio anyway. I'm busting to get my Johnny Cash CD's cranking again, so hurry up and help me out! E-mail me on [email protected] or PM. Be sure to include pics or at least a description of the deck. I'm in Mildura, Vic, so include postage costs if you're not in the area (which is more than likely!) Thanks, Adrian.
  24. Yeah, I'm pretty sure I've found the problem. There's a nut on the underneath of the main cylinder, and there's always some fluid around it (albeit a small amount). It's a slow leak, and will be fine so long as I top it up every now and then. That said, I'll need to get it replaced as soon as possible. Damn car.
  25. Thanks for your advice, I'll try to get it looked at tomorrow. Lawyers don't make good mechanics! I'm already thinking to trade the bastard in on a newer car... maybe a 2000 Honda Integra Type R?! I love my 32, but all the rattles and knocks are starting to give me the *#&%@!
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