Trooper

Change of plan I bought a falcon sensor from Repco i think it only cost me $58 (hope its the right one) The auto elec is charging me about $70 to fit it... It was going to be a 2 week wait for the genuine nissan part. Quick question, can the power FC be tuned with a faulty o2 sensor? i.e. does the wide band sensor they stick in the exhaust mean that it doenst matter about the faulty one up front? The reason i ask this is because i just paid for my car to be tuned, and when i rang up complaining about fuel issues they told me my o2 sensor was buggered... So did they tune it right and the new sensor will fix my problems? or did i get ripped off?

Thanks terminal - im thinking i will try to get a genuine part, or at least one that i dont have to change the wires on, would cost me more to get someone to change the falcon one over than it would to spend the extra on the genuine part. I am taking it that all of this advice is relevant to R33 gts-t owners, not specifically stageas?

I took my car out to CRD to get tuned a week ago - they told me my o2 sensor was stuffed and told me a new one would cost $300+ as well as labour charge. I get <200kms from a tank, if the o2 sensor was stuffed when they tuned it, does that mean it needs tuning again when i put my new o2 sensor in? or does the wide band one they use for tuning mean that it would have been tuned nicely anyway? If i replace a stuffed o2 sensor should i immediately see an improvement in fuel economy? Does anyone have an online link to buy an o2 sensor online? to save me a trip to repco... And is their any adavantage to buying the genuine nissan part as opposed to the falcon part?

Is there anyone from Sydney keen to get together one weekend to make a CAI and POD box? Might be a good 'group' project if 2 or 3 of us got together, shared skills/ideas?

Thanks for the advice mate... I might sell the cap (i bought one for my bro too) Any idea what they are worth? ive seen 1farad ones selling for like $400and ive got a 5 farad one (soundstream too). My brother was told they are worth about $1000 at autobahn :S crazy (he is the one that bought it for me actually) If i can sell it for enough $ it should pay for a new alternator/wiring etc Good news re battery drain though....it WAS the alarm after all Damn idiots installed it incorrectly to begin with All fixed for under $100 at an auto elec

I had an old magna before my line I gave it away at 572,xxx kms because the battery was dead and i didnt want to have to fork out for a new battery so i bought my line instead

Yeh its no issue for me, sounds kinda nice sometimes actually...

Yeh i get a similar thing, im running very rich at the moment this may be contributing

Sweet... now i just have to hide the POD

I have the blitz FMIC with the piping that runs under the front bar, i assume this would be fine with what people have been talking about as it uses the standard holes for the intercooler. I have an unboxed POD (which is loud) as well as the FMIC so im assuming this is not legal :S i had no idea i thought if i boxed the POD it would be fine... maybe ill just box it and put heaps of soundproofing/heatwrap around it to try and disguise it

My airbag warning light has come on. I took it into a workshop a while back and they said they couldnt run diagnostics on the airbag because i dont have a standard ECU (running power FC) I took it to an auto elec today and they plugged something into it to try and reset it with no sucess. they told me that you can reset the airbag using the door light switch. Has anyone heard about this? you know the rubber booted switch that turns the interior lights off when the door is closed. Any help would be great, it just needs resetting hopefully

Thanks for that mate I think I will run a common earth for battery and cap then. I remember playing with very little caps at school playing pranks on people with them, and the TINY ones still hurt, this is a lot bigger so i suppose the hurt will be a lot bigger too. Now it is just a case of watching the tracking updates on the net and waiting for the postman!!

Ive just bought a capacitor for my new setup (Soundstream 5 Farad cap) and just wondering if there any "Dont's" associated with the install? As i understand they can be a bit nasty if 'accidentally' discharged. I am drawing up a basic wiring diagram and just wanting to confirm exactly what happens with the capacitor is this right? Power wire from battery to capacitor Then continue to the power input on the amp With the earth does the amp get earthed via the cap or do I run an earth for the amp and a second one for the cap? or is the cap not earthed seperately? Any advice would be great This is what I have bought so far Pioneer Splits (Already installed) P4004 Rockford amp P3 10' Rockford sub Soundstream 5farad capacitor Later on I will buy a monoblock and run a second P3 sub and also move the pioneer speakers into the rear of the car and buy some decent focal splits for the front. I will have my old sub and amp to sell (less than a year old) not sure what they are worth The sub is a kicker 10' dual voice coil sub (the silver shiny patterned cone one) and the amp is coustic 4 ch. I cant remember how much I paid for these, any ideas what I should ask for when I sell them?

Not correct. Pre-preg has the resin already inside the weave and needs baking to cure. Pre-fab has already been baked (cannot be re-shaped/moulded) Then the dry weave you apply the resin with a brush (like working with fiberglass)

But for how long?

NO PLEASE PLEASE dont send them to the army, there are enough power hungry wenches in our defence force. Perhaps women in front line roles would help to reduce this number???

Mine dont just rattle they squeak it drives me crazy, i thought it was the suspension but i worked out its not, comes from the doors... going to pull it apart to soundproof anyway hopefully ill be able to tape up all the metal window parts that would rubb together drives me NUTS

Cheers for the sale, very easy to do business with Thanks heath

Did you change the flywheel? I put a really light flywheel in mine, and when i started driving it again i was havign the same probs, got a bit less torque so i had to give it a bit more off the line. Done some mods since then, brought the power back up and its fine... not sure if this is relevant to you.

NIPPLE

pics please when they arrive... I wonder if they do series II covers, because i think the seats are different aren't they?

Howd u go? Any luck getting them out?

Ahh yep, sorry i didnt realise it was just going to be a flat sheet that you want. Good luck with it, post pics for general interest when you are done? I am about to go to CRD myself, been speaking with a bloke called Jim, i need a few things done to my car. Hopefully within the next few days, things keep getting put on hold for me. I just want my car fixed, running nicely and back on the road

Holy shit Syd -> melb? thats massive, i thought they shat themselves at above 60kph and a few hundred k's the drive to melb is boring enough as it is. I dunno i just dont like bike tire one one side Vs 265 on the other... The main reason i want to get rid of it is because i could do with some extra room to tidy things up in and also that its extra weight/space used for something that i will very likely not use

If im 10hrs away from a tire shop or servo then i wouldnt trust a space saver to get me there anyway... In the last 6 years i have had 1 flat... and i just took the tire off and got a mate to drive me to get it patched.