Trooper

I am also tempted to try to move the fuse box ... whoever has done this can they please post a pic? i need some ideas I was thinking about getting rid of the space saver all together and putting battery/fuses etc down in there, what is the legality of this? do you NEED to have a spare? I wont ever use the space saver, if i get a flat i'd rather wait for the NRMA than try to make it on a bicycle tire Once the battery is gone the space under the rear parcel shelf is nice and long enough for amps/CarPC etc etc or maybe put two 10' subs in there and put the amps onto a MDF partition..

If that falls through, try going to a boat building place, there are a few around that make the sydney to hobart boats... We used to get their 'offcuts' to make our body work for a little SAE car. Cant remember who we used last year but its worth a shot, not something that comes to mind at first though is it!! Do you have an oven? remember the pre-preg stuff needs baking!!

I was asking nengun about rebuild kits for RB25's, if they could put them in their catalogue as a 'package' to include pistons, cams, con rods, metal head gasket etc etc to try and get a cheaper price to do a full rebuild. While they are considering what to do there they sent me this and asked if i wanted it http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/inf/pdf/53_en.pdf The answer YES i do want it but NO i cant afford but maybe some of you that are not poor uni students would be interested

Sorry mate cant help you out on any of those

Would LOVE to buy, out of my price range though... doing everything in stages, ill end up spending more than that i reckon for an inferior engine ... what a shame !! Goodluck with the sale

No starter motor, sorry

Almost finished stage 2 mods (minus AFM and injectors) Havent had mine tuned yet but im hoping to get just over the 200 mark... Any chance of stage 3 with some power estimates? (For RB25)

Hmm and i wonder why you might be wanting some new rubber? noting just a bit of tire smoke in your pic

Dont remember the guys name but i had all mine done a few weeks back (HEAPS cheaper than having to have the head pulled off, drilled and retapped like i was going to have done... As i recall i got change from a $100 bill (incl. new studs to put in ) The guy drove over in his van, didnt have to take the car anywhere (which was good because it was in pieces) Action Thread Repairs is the name, PM me if you want a phone # Goodluck!!! I added a pic of one of the studs, you can see he didnt drill all the way through any of the studs so nothing inside was touched

I just had my 100,000 km service - did it early ive only got 80xxx kms but wanted to get everything nice and working properly. Had the same problem with the cracked head studs and was quoted big bucks to take the head off and get the holes drilled and retapped, found a bloke at "ACTION THREAD REPAIRS" he drove to the workshop where my car was, had a nice little drill that fitted in the tight hole and got the studs out, i might add that he didnt drill all the way through so there was no damage ... think it cost me about $80?,? around that mark anyway for him to come and do that... MUCH cheaper than taking the head off although i didnt get to put my metal gasket in Let me know if you need the number but the dude was a champ, they were flat out busy and he still made the time to drive all the way across sydney (my car was in Rockdale) on 1 days notice. Dont remember his name, but whoever he was he saved me $$

Are they AUS made?

Might use a similar tub as a template, get it all to fit, then take it off and make one out of aluminium sheet. If worried about the look of that paint one, could possible fibreglass over the top of it

Yay head is OK!!! Yeh its like dried coolant, not spoof!!!!

Thanks ill check it out tomorrow

Cheers Ill post another pic, where i think it could be coming from (just based on the directionality of the spray) Its slightly greeny so i was thinking coolant Anyway here is the pic

Yeh they are fine... might have to look further when i get it tuned I really really hope head is fine, i was going to put metal head gasket in, but thought i'd do that later when i rebuild it all. thanks mate

Haha cheers for the advice!!!

Hmm blown head, dont like the sound of that!!! I havent cleaned it yet, its off the road until the new turbo goes on because it needs tuning and i cant afford to tune before AND after the turbo goes on

Cheers... HOW? I have a multimeter, but not sure how to use it (im an electrical spastic) Think ive ruled out the alarm drawing power, i thought my amp was responsible - but the remote wire is working and it turns off with the car Not sure about anything else

Something is leaking Not sure what it is, or where its coming from, but i dont like anything leaking from anywhere

I GET 200kms per FULL tank Killing me R33 Gtst with PFC,POD,AVCR (10psi), full zorst, front mount, new sparkies,new fuel pump etc Got a battery drain problem though, so maybe thats part of the problem, i put a brand new battery in a few months back, and it only lasts about 30hrs of not being driven, usually its not a prob. cos i ALWAYS drive it, but the car is having a rest while i wait for my new turbo so its dead .

Fill it with F$^#*(#$ TAXIS I HATE SYDNEY TAXI DRIVERS I had one stop in the MIDDLE of a roundabout right in front of me last week. You cant tell me that that is any less dangerous than any "hoon" driving i have ever seen

Haha piss funny pic.... not really what im after either

Excellent link... has just given me some more ideas... made my attempt look shit though Ahh well back to the workshop!!!

When they bent the pipe the outside 'stretched' and went all rippled so i had to start with 600 grade paper, then move up 800, 1000, and finally 1200. Took a while to get the bumps out. but yeh you need to get a smooth flat surface before you start with the finer stuff otherwise it will take you weeks to get any results with 1200 grade paper, then if you have access give it a buff to make it nice and shiny. If you live in Sydney i can probably give it a quick buff for you.