TokyoTaxi

Spoke to the guy at Exedy again and he's positive that the NSK-7333HD kit is the one to use. What someone ( I'll try to but it won't be for a while ) needs to do is to unbolt the slave cylinder and pop the clutch fork dust boot off and see if this is a push or pull set-up. If it IS a pull type clutch, the above kit should be good. If it's a push type clutch, I would be looking towards a HD early R32 GT-R organic kit.

I might be able to help you out. I have a BRIDE RO style drivers side rail to suit R34 GTT. I know that this rail will fit heaps of seats including many bottom mount Recaro's. If you're in Syd and you want to try the rail for fitment to your seat, let me know.

Actually, after searching a bit I found the following SPORTS TUFF Clutch Kits (Australian made for improved performance) Heavy Duty Kit: NSK-7333HD SKYLINE- GT-T Year Application 98-on R34, 2.5 Ltr, RB25DET (Pull type) I now have less confidence in the response from Exedy being correct

I just emailed Exedy and they told me the Heavy Duty part number for R34 GT (&V) with RB25DE NEO is NSK-7333HD

I'll be very interested to know the answer to this as well. My gut feeling is that a HD kit for the R32 RB20DET would be the right option ( PUSH type / 240mm Dia ) but I would really love to know for sure !

Cheers for posting this one up ! I printed 3 copies and filled up all the cars at my place ( 118L @ $1.15 P/L = )

You assume correctly !

Now that's bad timing ! Still for sale

As per title. Will suit R34 GT, GTV & GTT - Seats to suit this rail: BRIX, ERGO, PROS, East Bear and many others that bottom mount. Only bought this off Slide like a week ago and to make a long story short, I've decided not to use it. I had to elongate 1 hole a tiny bit to get the seat to bolt up but other than that it's "new". Comes with Warranty Card and Installation Instructions Price: I paid $330 but will sell for $250 Not interested in posting ATM ( prefer pick-up around Sutherland Shire )

SOLD

Tony, get a genuine thermostat to suit your car ( which opens at 76.5C ) which is only ~$50. Considering the age of your car and assuming you don't have any leaks, I would suggest you drop the coolant again, pull the radiator out and check the condition of the cooling fins and core. You might find that your radiator just isn't up to the task any more because of it's age or because there's 18 years worth of bugs & leaves etc that have become trapped on the front of it. If yours has lots of junk in / on it, blast it with the garden hose from the back side to the front to get all the junk out. MAKE SURE YOU DO THE SAME TO THE A/C CONDENSOR AND FMIC ( if you have one ) AT THIS TIME. That might be enough to get you out of trouble but if it's not looking real good, chuck it and upgrade to something with a core thickness that's better than factory ( 16mm ). IMO, 40-42mm core thickness is the best compromise between fitment and function. I fitted a 53mm Koyo to a mate's car not long ago and it was a pretty tight fit ! Hope that helps

How about a little bed time story ? Once upon a time, there was a sudden & dramatic increase in shoplifting by under-age theives in Eastdale shopping centers all over Australia. After months and months of business owners and staff complaining, a strange man called a senior representative for Eastdale. This strange man said he could make almost all the shoplifter's go away, and those that he did catch, he could make sure they remembered getting caught. In trade, the man requested control over the security operations of most Eastdale Center's in Aus. After many more months of theft and then even threats of violence towards staff, the senoir rep for Eastdale called the man up and asked him to help. The strange man told the senoir rep that some bad things were going to happen but everything would be OK. So, after much reluctance the rep agreed. The strange man then brought in all of his "people" to control the situation and within hours, the problem was all but gone. Now, for some strange reason, young people in their modified cars were having their cars stolen from the car parks of Eastdale shopping centres. The rep asked the strange man if he knew anything about this situation to which the strange man replied, "These are the kind of young and disruptive people you don't really want in your shopping center, right ?" The rep said, "Well yes ! That's correct." The strange man said "Well then, they're likely to stop coming here if their pride and joy is likely to get stolen right ? Which means there really is no problem, is there ?" The rep said, "I guess not. But I don't want any of this to come back on me or my organisation." The strange man said "There's no chance of that !" So the rep goes away feeling happy that those "young people" who are of a disruptive age and nature would be less likely to bother the good shoppers at Eastdale centre's. Although many cars have now been stolen and many police reports have been filed, cars just keep being stolen from Eastdale car parks. Slowly, the number of young disruptive people decreaced as they found somewhere else to "hang out". And everyone lived happily ever after. Oh, the name of the story is: "Organised Crime." Now, off to bed. Good night & sleep tight

Sorry for the lack of responses. Have been with food poisoning ( f*@$ink rainbow chinese resteraunt ) Will call those who left a number first, then return PM's to those who are locals. For those who asked me to reconsider prepping the seat & rail for a courier, sorry, I'm still not prepared to do it. But if I change my mind I'll be sure to PM you back. Cheers.

Yeah, "disappear" is a bit strong, but the change is very noticable from take-off. Oh and Kakimoto actually make 2 dedicated systems for the R34 N/A Coupe ( and none for the sedans )

The only reason that swirled water leaves the bottle quicker than non-swirled, is because swirled water creates a hollow in the middle of the water flow that allows air to move up into the bottle better than the alternative ( gulping ) negating the surging that is generated, and allowing the water to leave unimpeded. So, it's not "really" the same thing as the intake on an internal combustion engine which has air flow THROUGH the plumbing ( or bottle as in the scenario ). Correct but if the hyclone was placed AFTER the throttle body ( or even better, an individual hyclone in the top of each manifold runner ), the swirl theory that they advertise "should" work. With all that said, it would be fun to experiment but I'd be surprised if the gains were significant and there's no way I want a chopped up coke can in my intake system without some form of trap / filtration.

Just saw this ! Very I missed out. Looks like it would have been a fun place to take the Taxi. Enjoy, and feedback when you're done please

On the R34 GT, GTV and GTT ( Coupe & Sedan ), the front bolt down tangs are in the same spot but on a different angle. The left rear tang ( that bolts to the tunnel ) is much the same, and the right rear leg is in a different location ( out more and back a little ). Any other questions, feel free to ask

I'm "told' that these things do work in something like a diesel landcruiser or patrol because there is no throttle butterfly. I discussed this with a mate some months ago ( after many beers ) and we came up with someting that "might" have worked (?), but we always had real work to do. The theory was, if you use an RB25DE NEO engine, swap the upper section of the inlet plenum to a non-NEO one ( where the throttle normally bolts to the plenum ) but leave the NEO throttle where it is. Construct a pipe from the throttle, across the top of the engine ( with the vanes / hyclone inside ) and bolt it up to the non-NEO upper manifold section. By doing this, the swirling air from the hyclone would not be upset by the throttle butterfly and "should" have the effect it is supposed to have. Anyway, if someone has enough spare time to try this, please let me know how it works out

If anyone is, I doubt they'd admit it

Should have asked "me" come out years ago !! I'm guessing you didn't know I bring good luck ( for everyone but me ). You scored with your race, & my mate Mick on his first race outing came first in Production Sports Group C If you rub my belly the luck gets even better Well done !! ( keep em coming ).

R34 East Bear seat in excellent condition. With modified Raptor rail to suit R32, R33 GTS, GTS-t sedan or coupe & GT-R $700 With New Bride RO rail to suit R34 GT, GTT sedan or coupe $900 Not selling seat on it's own and will not courier / post but will meet you somewhere close to me ( I'm in the Sutherland Shire ).

I agree with ^^^. Coolant prol won't help you much. If you like, I can offer a suggested course of action since I have a pre-written procedure for this scenario

I have one of the Fujitsubo Legalis R systems on my car ( courtesy of the good people at Just Jap ) and it is the only name brand / bolt-on system I could find for an R34 N/A sedan. I "think" Kakimoto make a bolt-on system for the R34 N/A coupe also but you're best to confirm that with Just Jap. FYI, the Fujitsubo Legalis R system on my car has a similar sound to a BMW M3 and the longer you use it, the better it sounds ( as the muffler guts settle ). But as N-DAWG & Reggi34dr said, the most cost effective way to go is a custom made system but the trick is, finding someone who REALLY knows what they're doing. So many people drive away with a system that looks "OK" & sounds crap and end up going back and getting it chopped up to insert a different resonator etc. and still drive away only sort of happy. If you're going for a custom system and flow & tone are your main objectives, I would recommend the following. Get a Cat-Back system made using 2.5" mild steel ( mild steel always sounds better than stainless ). Make sure it's madrel bent ( not press bent ) and get a large high flow ( but low profile ) cross flow resonator fitted where the factory one was, and the rear muffler should be a big, high flow straight through muffler. This usually provides the deepest tone with the lowest cabin noise and should be around the 93-98db range depending on what products are used. Don't forget to either paint in with high temp paint or ceramic coat ( will make it sound even better ) it. It will sound a bit quiet for a while but will develop the right sound in time. Oh, and as soon as you remove the pea shooter factory system you will find the bottom end torque will dissappear no matter what, but will simply move the torque up closer to the mid-range. Also, your mid range & top end power will increase a bit with a bigger system but don't expect too much. Anyway, that's just my 2 cents. Hope it helps And one more point, Coupe & Sedan Cat-Back systems are not the same. The sedan system is longer.

For the life of me, I can't see how the above can be true. For the thermostat to work properly, the wax pellet end must be immersed in the water which controls it's function and that's in the block of an RB25. And if water flowed from the radiator into the engine via the thermostat, the cooler water flowing over the thermostat would cause the thermostat to close prematurely. Plus, the top tank is always hotter than the bottom one indicating that the engine's coolant is being evacuated from the block via the thermostat.

Thanks for all the input gent's ! I'm probably being a bit paranoid but don't want my mate to encounter any problems as a result of any work I've done for him. Just to clarify a point, here in NSW the temps usually don't get super cold but when I used to do Wakefield Park track days myself, I used to drive down to the track from Syd early in the morning and would frequently encounter temps of -5DegC and when pulling up for petrol, would pull sheets of ice off the front bumper, so that's where I was coming from Oh, and I just re-read the comment by SteveL. Is that correct ?? The water flows from the top tank, through the thermostat and into the block ?? For some strange reason I've got it embedded in my mind as the other way around. P.S. In my car I'm actually thinking about fitting an OEM R33 RB25DET ( Non-NEO ) to drop the operating temp to 76.5C just to see what happens