Victory

I have completed the form for a CAMS Level 2 Speed licence that I will pay for in cash on the day. Do I have to pay the $70 "urgent fee" in step 2 on page 2 of the form?

I have the same type of problem with one of my R33's. The boot leaks on one side at a time and fills one tail light. It is an intermittent problem that I cannot replicate by hosing the car and the tail lights have been out and resealed. Depending on which way the car is parked the water gets into the lower tail light, The car has a factory GTR bootlid and spoiler and I am starting to think that it is leaking through the spoiler mounting bolt holes. Any ideas or suggestions on what to try next would be appreciated.

My GTR came with a HKS Priest from Japan and I liked the exhaust so much I now have a few of them - a really deep note at idle but when you give it some they are not loud. A good example is at Eastern Creek at full noise down the main straight you can hardly hear the car from the pits. From my experiences with exhausts I would say that there are five different exhaust configrations: R32 GTR R32 GTST R33 GTR - R33 GTST - R34 GTR with short extension R34 GTR R34 GTT

I run exactly the same HKS exhausts on my R33 GTR and R33 GTST as the hanger brackets are exactly the same. I also run a R34 GTR exhaust on my other R33 GTST as again the hanger brackets line up the only difference is that the R34 exhaust is about 75 mm shorter at the front. I overcame this issue by making up a short joiner to go between the back of the cat and the start of the exhaust. Where I have noticed the greatest variation is in the location of the hangers that are on the rear muffler - some are closer to the centreline of the muffler and others are further apart. This then translates to the "O" ring rubber joiners either hanging vertically on the wide ones where the distance between the hangers is the same on the car as the exhaust. On the ones where the hangers on the muffler are closer together the exhaust is held up higher as the "O" rings are in more of a horizontal plane.

Come on Terry - I am going to have a go this time and you should join me and give the new blue car a run.

bump, price droped to $550 ono.

Even though it is not a Skyline I still do like Roy's toy

You have PM - I will take all of the panels.

I put a Series II front bar on my Series 1.5 and it was a very easy install. (1) Install a Series II indicator stalk and plug the wires into the harnes. (2) Swap the Series 1 plugs for Series II on the wiring harnes making sure that you match the wire colours when you solder the new plugs on. (3) Plug the lights in and you are good to go - it was that simple.

You have PM re R33 mud flaps.

I have a couple of these that I have removed from my cars - please PM me your contact details.

I have a passenger side weathershield for sale but it will have to stop raining to allow me to remove it from my car. Please PM me your contact details.

pm sent

You have PM regarding a GTR grille

I am also grateful for 3 days notice that the event will be postponed due to the track not being ready. Last week I damaged my ARC intercooler and have spent the week replacing it and getting the car retuned. Some extra time will allow some other related issues to be sorted out and bedded in before we run. If it had of rained on the day it would have been cancelled with no notice - that is drag racing. We just need the executives to work out a new date with WSID and all work towards the new date.

So does this mean that you should either run radials all around or semi slicks all around?

There is a rim repair shop in my area that uses a diamond tip in a lathe to remove the clear coat back to a perfect metal finish. They then spray it again in clear coat to seal it and it comes up like new. The issue is that the clear coat receives very small stone chips when you use the rims and then water etc gets in under the clear coat to produce the affect that your rims have. This is normal for a clear coated rim and this sort of repair/maintenance should be factored in to every 2 or 3 years if you use the rims on a regular basis.

Thanks for the info - I also need to pull some seats apart and was a bit stumped on how to get the knobs off.

I cannot see any reason why it would not work. I have swapped components from Nismo / GTR / GTS-T clusters and they have all worked OK What is wrong with your current clusted? If either the speedo or tacho are not working then just swap that part with the GTS cluster and then you can keep the boost gauge.

On the back of the caliper there will be two large bolts (probably 17 mm head) that you undo and then lift the caliper off complete leaving the hydrolic line in place. Then you need to remove the brake disc/drum. This just slides off over the studs but usually with a bit of difficulty. Spray some WD40 or similar on the centre to free it up and in the small holes that you have circled in red. Then insert some 8mm bolts slowly into each of the holes and tighten them up evenly until they are pushing the disc off. This is then the fun part based on how much rust has built up in the centre of the disc will then determine how much force is required before you hear a crack as the disc is released. It is important to insert these bolts evenly so that you do not warp the disc. Once the dics is off you should be able to replace your damaged wheel studs.

These wheels are worth $1700 new for the wide wheel pack from Tempe Tyres, so they are 1/3rd of retail. http://www.tempetyres.com.au/products_closeup.asp?part=&part_no=294

We are in - money paid and forms emailed.

Sorry to hear about your bad luck Dave. I saw the car at Unigroup today and she looks to be on the mend. On our track car we went for one of those D1 Steering wheel quick release kits (http://www.justjap.c...488&cat=&page=1) and a quick release lock hub (http://www.justjap.c...666&cat=&page=1). When my wife saw the car in the driveway the obvious comment was that it reminds you of Mr Bean with no steering wheel and only a locked hub in its place. Apart from making it easier to get in and out of the race seat it should act as another deterrant.

bump

Clinton and I want to give our car a run in this event as part of it's and our development. When will the revised entry form be available or should I just update the WSID form to reflect this event?