Victory

Is it true that you have led Ando astray and he now also has a red MX5? What is the world coming to.....

How would we go with a pair of "butt" plugs in the exhaust to just take the edge of the exhaust note and give it a run at texi? I have an old pair of 245 semi's on a set of SSR's that you could fry for the day if you like...

I will take them off your hands - you have PM.

It could be a problem with the Hicas unit or it may have been replaced with a "lock bar" and deactivated. As you come from Nowra I would suggest that you contact a local forum member "Humbla". Genelle also resides in Nowra and is an experienced Skyline owner who could advise you about the problem and where you could have the car serviced by someone who knows Skylines.

If drift dingo does not take them I will - just send me a PM and I will call around and pick them up.

I have a similar problem with my GTR as it only gets driven a couple of times a year. On investigation it appears as though the alarm has its own back up battery which the alarm manufacturer recommends changing on a yearly basis (I have had the car now for 4 years and have not changed it) so I am going to first find and then replace this battery. The fact that all of the lights work when your alarm turns on/off I would suggest that you may have a similar problem.

They are the same casting but the actual plastic material is different. Series I is a smooth finish and a Series II has more of a wrinkle finish - the Series II plastic is a better material.

Is it for a Series I or Series II?

One of my GTS-T's had the same thing with the factory and an aftermarket charcoal cannister installed. I would suggest that it was part of compliance where they simply installed a new aftermarket unit instead of going to the trouble of proving that the original factory unit was still working correctly. I have since removed the aftermarket unit with no adverse affects.

Yeah I have my son and daughter coming to the dinner. I currently have another committment on the same day as the 21st Anniversary R2 GTR event that I have been trying to get out of for weeks and I will not know if I can make it until the the week before.

OMG how did I miss this one - paid for 3.

Sold

Handling improvements can be achieved with little cash outlay by installing adjustable selby/whiteline sway bars. These also allow you to easily tune your handling by either increasing or decreasing stiffness at either end of the car simply by moving the link from one hole to the next. Good wheel alignment is another important factor - I would start with the Sydneykid recommended settings and also look at ride height. Skylines do not like being lowered below a set height as it changes the roll centre and suspension angles with adverse effects. When you have a wheel alignment done get a printout of the final settings to confirm exactly what they are - I have had one so called "good alignment" that on checking had 13mm of toe out on each front wheel (great for turn in but wandered all over the place in a straight line).

I do not have the part numbers but I must warn you to bring your credit card. The front and rear screen rubbers alone are $650 for a R33 and I think that it is something over $2000 for the full set of window and door rubbers.

I have a set of four 18 inch chrome wheels for sale. They are 18 x 7.5 inch wheels, with a +40 offset and a 4x114.3 pcd. They would fit a non turbo R33 Skyline, non turbo R32 Skyline, S13 Silvia / 180SX, and A31 Cefiro. The front tyres are 225/40 zr18 Achillies ATR Sport with an average of 5.5mm tread (75%). The rear tyres are 235/40 r18 Hankook Ventus HR2 with an average of 3.5mm tread (40%). These were on a R32 non turbo Skyline, I've done a 5 stud conversion so I can't use them anymore. They also include 3 centre caps. I'm asking $450 for them ono. I'm located in Wollongong NSW, for Sydney buyers I can meet you at Heathcoate McDonands to save you a trip to Wollongong or I would be able to post them at the buyers expense. If you are interested, send me a pm. Clinton.

When you consider that a OEM water pump from Just Jap is not that expensive I would just go with that and know that it will not cause you any problems down the track - this has worked for me with my tribe of Lines.

I would suggest that the factory unit is there to reduce MVH in the steering wheel and reduce noise transfer to the cabin from the front suspension. I cannot see how it would impact on the operation of the rack or cause undue wear in the steering to replace it with something more substantial. In our R32 we have replaced it with a billet alloy unit which seems to make the steering feel more direct. In my R33 build I am tossing up between another billet unit and one of the urethane replacement ones - either way it will not be another factory item.

We are looking at doing this in our R32 with the cable etc from a R33. This can be easily obtained from a R33 wreck and it comes with all of the protective covering from the R33.

I also have one - PM me if you are interesed in it.

You have pm.

That is a nice bit of engineering Noddy. Have you made similar roll centre changes to the Yellow R33?

Sold to me.

As discussed by phone - you have PM

I have recently been down this exact path and finished up goung with a GTS-T shell. If you are going to go 2WD then what benefit do you get from a GTR shell: - wider front and rear guards that allow you to run a 10 inch wide rim with a 20 offset at both ends - slight weight reduction from the aluminium front sheet metal - some increased body stiffness from the additional factory bracing - would there be any benefit from retaining the GTR front suspension now that it is 2WD? Would it be better (reduced unsprung weight etc) to install a GTS-T front cross member and GTS-T suspension. GTS-T Option benefits: - lower initial cost and availability - most GTR components that you need are a straight bolt in - you do not have to convert it from AWD to 2WD What I am doing - initial build: - RB25 with basic engine mods to deliver a reliable 250 kw with the option of a RB26 with 2WD sump in the future - R33 GTR master cylinder and Brembo calipers with no ABS - R33 GTR complete rear subframe and running gear - full set of GTR body braces (under front rails, under floor at "B" piller, under rear cradle and in the boot) If I decide to go down the GTR body path in the future I have a complete GTR front end (bonnet, guards, front bar, front reo etc) that I can simply bolt on to the GTS-T shell. I have rolled and pumped the rear guards but if I need more room in the back I can always put a pair of GTR rear quarters on in the future. What we both seem to be attempting to achieve is to build a better 2WD car by combining the best GTR and GTS-T components.

If that is the going price then I will do them for $25 each delivered.