Victory

The fact that you still have drive means that the pressure plate and clutch are at least still working. As GTR-32U has stated I would check out your peddle bracket, master cylinder and slave cylinder to see if that is where your problem is. I would work on these to the point where you can get the slave cylinder to operate the clutch fork. This will identify if the problem is in the hydrolic system that works the clutch or the clutch itself.

What you have to decide is what is going to be the best solution a) buy another cluster that is in good condition and just swap them over b) if your one is in otherwise good condition have it repaired by an instrument repair company - I would get an estimate to repair before they start to make sure that it is worthwhile. I have had a odometer repaired in the past and it has worked perfectly ever since.

I have one too - where are you located?

Following all of the discussion I am looking at starting with the following setup while I keep my eye out for some R33 GTR Front Brembo calipers: Front BDA 5000 front rotors in 324mm dia Dog bones to step out standard calipers to fit the larger rotors R33 GTS-T front calipers Hawk HT10 pads Rear RDA Gold Passivated slotted rear rotors R33 GTS-T calipers Hawk HT10 pads Braided lines and the master cylinder "T" piece to run the BM57 master cylinder and booster What are your thoughts guys - am I on the right track?

Thanks for the ongoing discussion guys as this information is great. Just to further complicate matters Richard (Beer Baron) goes and does this http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fu...ke-t329801.html This is possibly the best Skyline Brembo option possible for my car but it as a bit over the budget that I was looking at.

Thanks Dave that is the exact part that I need and as I already have a good master cylinder I should try and make what I already have work. I have recently purchased a new alloy radiator, an oil cooler and a full set of adjustable suspension bushes and I am trying to do all of the basic things right the first time. I am looking at using the adjustable sway bar settings and the shock adjustments as my way of fine tuning the cars handling (following Sydneykids approach to easy setup adjustments).

Thanks for all of the great responses - I should provide some background info on where I am at with my build. I recently obtained a R33 Series 1.5 from a friend with superficial damage to the front after he put it through a fence. It is currently in my mates panel shop (refer to my signature) undergoing repairs. We are converting it to a Series II with all new panels, lights etc in front of the windscreen and a full respray except for the roof. In addition I was able to buy a GTR boot lid with a genuine Nissan N1 wing blade just to finish it off. I also have a complete GTR front for it (just in case I get serious in the future) so we have also painted that to match at the same time. In the initial build the car will be road registered as a Series II so it will be heavy compared to a dedicated track car. Mods completed or in the process of being installed: Engine – high flowed turbo, Power FC with boost controller, Nismo injectors, spitfires, oil management head mods, larger baffled sump, oil cooler, split dump, high flow cat and HKS Preist exhaust. Running gear – Bilstein B16 PSS9 coilovers with 8kg front and 7kg rear springs, complete R33 GTR rear cradle and diff (to beef up the rear end and accept the shocks), standard suspension arms with adjustable bushes, Whiteline 24mm front and 22mm rear sway bars. Rims - Enkei NT03 in 18 x8 and 18x9 shod in Yokahama A048 in 235/40R18’s. Interior – full Series II interior, OMP WRC seat, 6 point harnesses, GTR cluster with 300 km Nismo speedo. The initial focus is on building a car that handles well, that is reliable and with good midrange power to make it as driveable as possible. I have had lot of conflicting information on what sort of brakes I should run as the stock GTS-T brakes may now be the weakest part of the overall package. Kaido_RR "Run R32 GTR Vspec N1 brake master is it the same size as the rest of the gtr range but is the only gtr to run non-abs, so its just a bolt on application." This was my original preference but these are hard to find so I ended up with a BM57 from a R33 GTR Roy "The EVO calipers only take a 320mm rotor and the pistons are much bigger then the GTR Brembo meaning you will be heavily front biased" Brake bias is one of my main concerns when you go for one of the larger front caliper options as it will make it heavily front biased - something that you then cannot manage with a bias adjuster on the rear brakes. I really did not want to go down the AP Racing or similar brake upgrades as it is hard to justify the additional costs and set up development to come up with a reliable package as opposed to using a proven solution. evil_weevil "Ryan (BOZ22N) has R33 GTR brembo's up front. I went in his car for a session yesterday and felt much better than other 33's (Iincluding my old banger) with minimal upgrades. If I had to do it all again I'd get them as an upgrade" Chubbs - my car will have similar performance to your old car and what Ryan has done and your impression of it confirms that R33 Brembo's are a good solution. Marlin Your comments are exactly what I was looking for as your experiences are proof that this solution does really work in a range of track situations. My only remaining problem is obtaining a suitable "T" piece for the front brake lines to convert my master cylinder to non ABS. Any options in this regard would be appreciated. Thanks again for all of your comments

Hi Micheal, I have a pair of front R32 GTS Type S single piston calipers for sale. These run 280mm X 26mm rotors (DBA953), which are 4mm thicker than s13 sr20det rotors (DBA919). Through FAST these run the same calipers as the r32 gts-t series 1 non Type M ,but being an na ran 4 stud rotors. Im asking $100 delivered for them, which includes Calipers, Pads, Discs and brake lines. PM me if your interested.

As the pictures show this guard is in good condition apart from some minor damage and would be a very easy repair. Price drop to $80

Some of you may be aware that I am building another R33 GTS-T that will be track orientated (read as "cheap shell fast becoming costly exercise"). The car does not have ABS and this is my preference going forward not to install ABS. I have just picked up a very good BM57 master cylinder and booster from a R33 GTR and I am looking to convert it to non ABS. Is there a "T" piece that you can fit to the master cylinder to run the two front lines from the single master cylinder outlet? I am looking at going down the Brembo brake path instead of going for a "full-on track only application" as this should provide adequate braking for my skill level. I am looking at using R33 GTR rear Brembo calipers. For the front I have been looking at options as the R33 GTR front calipers are restrictive in the availability and price of pads. It would appear that front Brembo's from an Evo can be easily mounted on a R33 with readily available mounting plates. The pads are larger than on a R33 GTR and more universal as they are used by a range of other vehicles. The other issue is brake bias if I mix and match Brembo's - with Evo calipers will the bias still be correct or will I have to look at installing a bias adjuster for the rears? Rather than re-invent the wheel I would like some advice for people who have already been down this path to confirm that I am on the right track.

This was one of the first mods I did to My GTR. I think it is blocked to satisfy the sound levels and performance restrictions in Japan. It is anothe case of Nissan looking after GTR owners where you can open it to improve performance and if you are pinged for noise then just put it back in. I have subsequently gone to Apexi pods with an enclosed carbon fibre air box. This same opening in the panel provides cold air now to the air box.

Series I and Series II have different front reo's as well. I am in the process of converting a Series 1.5 into a Series II and I had to get a Series II reo for the front bar to line up. Why wouldn't you just buy a GTR copy bar that is made to fit a Series II.

I am interested in the air con gear - I will give you a call tomorrow.

Man that looks seriously cold - I thought Qld was supposed to be hot.

Do you have any pictures of the side skirts? Are they factory skirts or after market ones?

Sounds like you have a bush that in warn in the rear suspension that is providing excessive movement. I would jack it up and check out all of the suspension or take it to a suspension shop and get an inspection done.

We have adjustable cam gears on all of our Skylines. In each case they have improved bottom end and mid range performance that makes the car much more driveable out of corners.

Sold to me.

Hi Ian looks like you have a sale - please PM me your contact details so we can arrange pick up.

GTR's and GTS-T's run different mounting points and shock lengths. They are not interchangeable.

Silver R33 GTR RHS guard in repairable condition. As the pictures show it is in good structural condition and has some damage in the middle of the guard. For someone with some panel beating skills it would be an easy repair or just put some bog over this damaged section. $100 pick up in Wollongong or for an extra $10 for fuel I can meet you at Heathcote McDonalds.

Please post some pictures of the shocks.

I am running about 12 psi boost to achieve these figures and the best part is that it is making 100 kw at only 3k compared to my GTR that makes 80kw at 3k. This give the car a strong bottom end and mid range which makes it very driveable and is a credit to the guys at Unigroup Engineering.

I have a R34 cooler on one of my Series II R33 GTS-T's. The Series II front bar has a nice big opening for the ducting to capture the air and send it through the cooler. With a standard turbo and air box and just an exhaust, cam gears and a Power FC I am making a very driveable 200kw at the wheels with this set up.

Please post up some pictures of the coilovers as the part number quoted is not in the Bilstein Catalogue.