Victory

104.37 now that is seriously quick!

Put me down for a copy please.

Mate I am afraid that you are dreaming. The last three sets of R33 rims that I have purchased were all in the $100 to $150 price range. With $150 including near new tyres.

My R33 GTR was complied back in 1999 and it has always had four rear parkers and four rear brake lights (the way it should be). My GTS-T was only complied recently and only has the outside two brake lights. From the discussion in this thread I am now going to pull the rear lights apart on it to see if it will also be an easy fix to have all four brake lights working.

I use Redline Shockproof Light in my R33 Series II GTS-T. This oil is recommended by many enthusiests as it helps the synchro's when they are getting a bit tired. It is expensive at about $140 for 4 litres but you get what you pay for and it comes out looking as good and clean as it goes in. I always warm up my Skylines before I drive them and the changes are then always easy as the oil is warm. Skylines do not like being below 2k in any gear except first and generate a degree of growning as a result.

My offer of $900 is still on the table if you want to sell them.

I run 265/35ZR18 on 18 x 9 rims and they fit perfectly. The only problem is that the OD is 644 mm and is a fraction small when the correct OD is 650. This means your actual speed is about 5km less that what your speedo shows. This is what most car companies do so that you are just under the speed limit. I was running 245/40ZR18 on 18 x8 with an OD of 651 which gave me the exact speed on the speedo in both the GTR and GTS-T. I was going to go for 275/35ZR18 to get back to an OD of 649 but Toyo only had 2 in the country and were hoping to get in another 6 in July. Even though they would have been the exact tyre for the car if they are that rare then if you stuffed one it would be a real pain to try and replace it.

"What are the new tyres you are putting on?" I have gone for some more Toyo T1R's in 265/35ZR18. I run these on my GTR and they provide good grip especially in the wet with their open tread pattern. The only draw back is that they are noisy which simply means turning up the sterio.

I went to the event with street legal tyres and this is what I came home with this. No wonder I could not put the power down on the back track in the tight bits. Tyre problem now solved with a nice new set - glad I did not replace them before the event.

I have a R33GTR that has all four lights on for parking and again for brake lights (this is a pre RAWS import). My R33GTS-T has four lights for parkers and only the outside two for brake lights (it is a RAWS import).

The car is now really taking shape. Bumblebee is great name for her.

You have PM regarding drivers power window switch and surround.

I had a great time at yet another well organised NSW SAU event - Well done to all of the organisers. I only had one gripe for the day and that was the gravel that was on some corners on the back track. It meant hanging the arse out every time you came around and loosing time until the wheel spin finally stopped (and when you are an old fart like me you cannot afford to loose time compared to all of the young guys). When we have an event there next year I will take down my heavy duty blower and before the event starts spend some time blowing the gravel off the road (my portable hurricane should do that just fine). Again thanks to all for a great day.

"From a tank" is a very open statement - how much fuel are you actually putting in? What is your actual consumption in litres per 100 km? I have my R33 GTS-T tuned to get an amasing 10 litres / 100km (although most of this is highway running). My R33 GTR uses between 15 and 20 litres / 100km depending on how excited I get. Fuel type can also impact your consumption, I use BP Ultimate in the GTS-T and Shell V-Power Racing (100 Octane) in the GTR.

Hey guys you have 2 more starters Clinton and I will be heading down this afternoon and we will see you bright and early in the morning to register and pay.

Welcome to the Skyline family. That car has had some serious money spent on the interior. The front seats are from a GTR and normally go for $1k second hand (I should know as I put some in my GTS-T).

That sounds like the oil is too thick which is making the pressure very high when it is cold. Skylines like oil in the 10-40 or 7.5-40 range only and synthetic if you can afford it. The best is Motul Chrono 10-40 but it is nearly $100 for 4 litres.

The basic door structure is the same but there are some differences on the inside. The interior trim is different and the window switch and and relay unit are also different. So if you can install your interior parts onto the door then all should be OK.

How can the car have no compliance plates if it is displaying NSW rego plates in the attached pictures?

That sux - Paulr33 V-Power Racing 5 seconds away. I have to travel 90km to buy it so when I do I tend to bring home a bootfull of containers.

In my GTS-T daily driver I have used both Shell V-Power and BP Ultimate and it runs better on the BP Ultimate and I even get better fuel enonomy as an added bonus. In my GTR I run Shell V-Power Racing (100 Octane) because the GTR loves it and she is more responsive right through the rev range. This stuff is hard to get and it costs more but for a limited use car it is worth the extra hassle and extra cost.

Location?

Location???

Yes it can be done and yes it does require special tools. You need an engine brase that sits on the front guards and supports the engine. Then you remove the steering and the front cross member and then you can remove the sump. This is probably the best part of a days job so you can expect it to not be cheap.

I own a R33GTR V-Spec and a R33 GTS-T Series II so I have some experience with both types of cars. They are two very different animals that are built to do two different things. The GTR is a blast every single time that you drive it. These things create passion but it comes at a cost. There is that much that you can do to a GTR the sky is the limit and every single thing that you do feeds your passion and kills your bank account at the same time. By comparison the GTS-T is made as a street car and not as a total performance car. With a few basic mods like a front mount intercooler, Power FC, good dump pipe, hi flow cat and good exhaust, either a pod or a K&N panel filter and a nice set of 18 x 8 and 18 x 9 mags it becomes a good daily driver with about 200 RWKW. I originally purchased my GTR as a daily driver but after a few months I realised that it was not made to do that. I now do about 6k in the GTR and 30k in the GTS-T a year. The GTR also continuously asks you to give it a bit and if you respond you can just about see the fuel gauge going down. I live in Wollongong and work in Sydney (about 80k each way) so I am also a daily commuter. You must also realise that Skylines do not come cheap and every thing that you buy for them comes at a premium price from the synthetic oils, the dyno tunes, the factory and performance parts to the performance tyres that you chew up on a regular basis. It also depends on how much you are budgeting to run your car. Last year my GTR cost me $18k and my GTS-T cost my $25k just to run not including mods like the three spare sets of mags that I now have in the garage. From my perspective I would look at a nice R33 GTS-T and then allow about $4k for some basic mods. Then enjoy…….