Victory

I cannot see any reason to leave the cover off unless you were having the car tuned on the dyno and needed to adjust the cam gears as part of the tune. After that I would always have a cover on. If it is a look thing that you are after they now make clear covers for RB26 and RB25 motors. I have first hand experience with the type of problems that can occur with an open motor. I once dropped a 6 mm bolt down past the timing chain in a Mazda engine. After much effort we finally got it to fall all the way through and into the sump to allow me to retrieve it by removing the sump. This took TWO WHOLE DAYS to get the bolt out and an unbelieveable amount of frustration along the way.

The available 98 is usually BP Ultimate, Shell V Power And Caltex Vortex. I have tried all of these in my GTS-T and it performs best on the BP Ultimate followed by Caltex Vortex and Shell V Power in that order. In my GTR I run Sheel V Power Racing that is rated at 100. The GTR really loves this stuff and although supply is a pain due to the limited places where you can buy it the hassel of getting it is worth it for the improvement in mid range responsiveness.

Where are you located?

This part for a Series II has a different part number than a Series I. I fitted a Series I part on my Series II and although I could make it fit it is a littie bit different. I had to bend it to fit because the bottom of the Series II bar is a different shape. If you cannot source a Series II one second hand you may end up buying a new genuine one from Nissan for your model for about $75.

The exact same thing happened to my R33 speedo, the speedo continued to work but the trip metres both stopped. I removed the gauge cluster from the dash (I don't trust people that I do not know working on my cars) and I took it to an instrument repair shop. Apparently this is a common problem and for $100 he pulled the speedo apart and replaced the broken part.

If you check you will find that some people have already signed up for this manual - me for one. Come on all of you R33 owners out there and commit to a manual.

We all know what Drift R's look like. You need to post some pictures of your wheels to allow people to see what condition they are in.

You have email

It all really comes down to condition of the car. A very straight GTR is just as good as a GTR V-Spec in most situations. The V-Spec has a number of minor improvements like firmer ride, 1 cm lower ride height, active rear diff etc - that is if the car is stock. If the car has aftermarket suspension then all of this means nothing. From a personal perspective I have a pristine V-Spec and I love the active rear diff and the Super Hi Cass. The car has unbelievable levels of grip and the rear wheel steering really freaks out passengers the first time that they come for a ride in the car.

I am running Toyo 245/40/18 on an R33 GTS-T with 38 psi cold all round. Tread wear is good but it tends to be wearing the edges more than the centre on the fronts and the opposite on the rears to even them up.

I run a R33 GTR V-Spec that is reasonably stock apart from pods and a big exhaust and it attracts a degree of attention from the cops. It is amusing the number of times that they do a U turn and then follow me for a while checking the car out. They then come up along side the car and see that an old fart with a grey beard is driving it and they then loose interest and just drive away. It is important to not do anything to attract attention to yourself and to keep a low profile in the spots where the cops hang out.

Chris this is exactly what I was thinking of doing for my cars with the exception that I was going to place the extinguisher behind the drivers seat as my rear passangers seat gets used. Looks good in practice and does not involve drilling additional holes in the car - now I know what I will be doing over the Xmas break.

Motul 300V Chrono 10W-40 is what I and 90% of GTR owners on this forum use. It is expensive at about $95 for 4 litres but compared to the cost of a RB26 rebuild it is cheap.

Received my hoses today! ! ! I am very impressed with the quality of build and the custom black hoses with black end caps for my GTR are simply the best. Thanks again Mark for your great service and a top product,

You have PM. Looks like you are becoming my official parts supplier - I scrape my front bar on a gutter and next thing you know you have a new one ready for me.

I cannot believe that anyone still uses a resolution of 800 x 600. I thought that I was doing it tough trying to cope with 1440 x 900 in this day and age. I have cut my signature down yet again and it is still being cut off - I do think that you have gone just a little bit too far with the restriction.

I have just installed one of these Just Jap - R33 Adjustable Front Chassis Braces on my Series II R33 with great results. This mod has improved the stability of the front of the car at both turn in and mid corner. Turn in is more precise with less body roll and the reduced body roll is maintained through mid corner under power with a noticable increase in corner speed on corners that I drive on a regular basis. Before the mod, if you gave it a bootfull in second gear on a roundabout the front would pick up the inside wheel and you could feel the body flex. It now just sits flat and goes where you point it. This mod (in combination with the front strut brace) has removed a lot of the body flex from the front of my GTS-T and it now feels similar to my GTR when it comes to front end body stiffness. For the $149 purchase price this has been a great mod for the money.

Are there are Drift R's out there for sale?

Your paint code will be on the blue factory build plate on the fire wall. It is the code below the model number and on my car it is KLO.

I am after some ROH Drift R wheels to complement the set that I already have. Looking for either four 18 x 10 or four 18 x 8 - what have you got?

I went one better - I got the Just Jap combined front strut brace and brake stopper for my R33 GTS-T. It fitted perfectly and is a very good copy of the factory Nismo unit.

Heater core replacement is a bugger of a job as it involves removing the dash to get at it. While it is out you should check that all of your vent controls are working correctly as they also play up with age. $300 for labour is cheap as it is a very time consuming job. My wifes' Mazda has this problem at the moment and the cheapest quote that I have to date is $1,200 for this job - most shops are not even interested in giving me a price. Neadless to say I have just bypassed the heater core at the moment until I can get a free weekend to do it myself.

As you have stated these lights are the brake lights that only come on when the brakes are applied. The outside two lights are the rear parkers - this is an ADR requirement to differentiate the parkers from the brake lights. The lights are working as designed.

I have 5 cars in my driveway - 4 manuals and 1 auto. My wife and daughter drive the auto and my son and I drive the manuals. I do at least 200 km per day commuting to work and I love my manual R33 GTS-T as a daily driver. Give me a manual any day.

That front bar is from a 40th Anniversary model Series II. Although these are a factory front bar they are not that common and would result in a premium price compared to other factory bars. Good luck with your quest for one of these bars.