Victory

My GTR has a 3.5 inch hi flow cat with HKS exhaust and Apexi pods. When you put the boot into it and then change gears the bov makes a loud bark sound back through the pods. It sounds so much like a dog that when people first come for a ride they keep looking around for a dog in the back of a ute and do not realise that it is the bov.

There is a FAST topic on these forums where if you provide the VIN and Engine number then they can check the FAST software and confirm if the car is genuine for you. Some rebirthed cars have been identified this way where the car leaves the factory white but pops up later black with the engine that also came in a black car. It is funny how these cars also have the vin plate attached with non factory clips.

I am sure that there is a forum member who had a manual R34 4WD sedan which he then did a NEO RB25 DET conversion and a R33 GTS-T brake upgrade. This gave him a 4WD turbo sedan for a total outlay of just over $16k.

I would be concerned that the grey car has sedan headlights (silver instead of black surrounds) this is a tell tale sign of front end damage at some time in the past. Also cars with 320km speedo's have questionable km's because these are not the original speedo's. I have a R33 GTR V-Spec and I can vouch for the additional grip that the active rear diff makes in wet conditions. If you find two cars in the same condition then go for the V-Spec but if the non V-Spec is in better condition then it would be a better buy. There are also a lot of V-Spec's that are just a sticker so make sure that you run the VIN through FAST to make sure it is genuine.

Double clutching is one of those skills that once you have mastered just comes naturally every time that you change gears. It does put less stress on your gearbox and makes the shift smoother. If you have a GTS-T then a simple mod is to install a GTR accelerator pedal. It is simple to install and has an extension out on the left side to make it easier to heel toe. These only cost about $20 and make heel toeing so much easier.

Just my luck - a cruise to the Gong on the same day that I will be at Oran Park - that SUX. Have fun all while you are in "God's Country"

I only use Motul 300V Chrono in my R33 GTR V-Spec and my R33 GTS-T. I change the oil every 5,000 km with one of the new Nissan small diameter oil filters. These are the best as they are so easy to get into place even on the GTR. You pay a lot for Motul but it is good insurance against a costly engine rebuild.

I am after the vent from the passanger side of the front bar - refer picture below. Is it OK or was it damaged in the crash?

I am after the following parts: • Chassis braces - $35 Does this include? - the under floor brace at the "B" pillar that incorporates a bar that goes under the tail shaft - the brace in the boot between the suspension towers that the strut brace bolts to - the front lower arm brace

Michael That is the idea of using eye bolts. It allows you to quickly click on and off the harness as required. The problem though is that once you have experienced the extra support that the harness provides you will want to always use them. I now do not feel safe in a normal lap sash belt and use the harness all the time. The other thing is that you have so much more feel of what the car is doing under you in corners with a harness that you become one with the car. This may sound like a lot of crap but the extra feel makes you a better driver because you can feel what the car is doing.

Roy I would suggest that you are correct in that I may not have used the best form of angle with the best strength characteristics, but it is what I had at the time. My main idea was to attempt to spread the load over as much of the parcel shelf and surrounding panels as possible. I have seen cases in the past with just the eye bolts mounted through the body metal with the large washer and nut underneath. In an impact they did not pull through the panel but there was a degree of distortion on the panel.

I picked up a pair of ERG 6 point harnes from R & R Speedsports Pty Ltd in Greenacre. I am running R33 GTR seats in both cars so I do not use the crutch belts. The other problem is finding the eye bolts with the short eyes to fit the seat belt mounting point on the console side of the seats. Most performance shops do not stock them (refer attached pic) however I found some at Gary's Motorsport Tyres Pty Ltd.

Prior to trying V Power Racing I got the best results from BP Ultimate. V Power is 98 RON and available everywhere, V Power Racing is 100 RON and only available a selected locations in capital cities. I do not think that normal V Power is as good as BP Ultimate.

The angle is 2.8 mm thick and galvanised so that it will not rust. I mounted it in the child restraint bolt hole as that is where the panels of body metal overlapped so that apart from being in the right position it would be the strongest part of the parcel shelf. The car was scrutineered by CAMS officials at a Renault Skid Pan Day and they had no problems with it. Do you have any better suggestions and how did you mount your 4 point harnes?

I have been trying Shell V Power Racing in my GTR and GTS-T with very good results. I have had a noticeable increase in mid-range power and torque that have made both cars more driveable and more responsive. The best thing is the fuel consumption - 11 litres per 100 km in the GTS-T and 12.5 litres per 100 km in the GTR. This is amazing as the GTS-T normally is in the 13 to 15 bracket and the GTR has never got less than 15 before and often gets closer to 20 when you get a bit serious. This is a direct comparison for my daily commute to Sydney from Wollongong so it is a real comparison. The other difference is that both cars seem to be louder in induction noise. They seem to be sucking in a lot more air to match the fuel to the point where I need to put some insulation in the air box for the pods to quieten them down a bit. What experience have you had with Shell V Power Racing – is it as good as mine? The only problem is the price $154.9 per litre - but if it goes this much better what the heck. :laughing-smiley-014:

Installing the belt anchor points in the rear parcel shelf are a major challenge in a R33 Coupe. This is because the panel drops down at the side and you need to mount the eye bolt suspended in the air. I solved this problem by using a piece of 50mm angle that I then cut most of one side out to fit on the parcel shelf (refer photo). The eye bolts closest to the centre go through the speaker and child restraint mounting bolt point. This is the overlap of about three pieces of body metal so it is quite strong especially when you use a 90 mm washer on the underside. The end of the angle is then supported via brackets to the back panel below the window and also down to the back of the rear seat. This then has the two eye bolts in the exact location to line up with the front seats. The trick though is to put the parcel shelf in place (holes pre drilled for the eye bolts) then install the eye bolts and tighten them up followed by the rear trim and seat. My problem is that after all of this work in my GTS-T I have to start all over again and do the same for my GTR.

I also want to replace my flat mirror glass with a convex mirror. I have purchased a complete mirror with the glass that I want. How do you get the glass and backing plate out of the mirror? If I can get the glass out of my two mirrors and swap them over then I will have a flat mirror glass for sale.

This is a costly exercise as there is a lot more that requires changing than just adding a turbo. DaGr81 has been down this path and I think that it cost him somewhere about $5k for the complete upgrade. Then you also need to change the wheels and hubs from 4 stud to 5 stud to update to GTS-T brakes to cope with the extra performance. The cheaper option is to buy a GTS-T.

One of the main problems is the retention of oil in the back of the head on any of the RB series of engines. This is solved by running an oil line from the oil welsh plug in the back of the head down to the side of the sump on the drivers side. The attached pictures show some good examples of this.

I was at the point of buying a R34GTT with a Nismo kit when I found my R33 GTR V-Spec. The challenge with a GTR is to find a good one, otherwise you will always have your hand in your pocket. It is not uncommon for people to have engine failures on the day after purchasing a GTR that then results in a $8 to $10 k rebuild. Make sure you get a good one.

I have a R33 GTR V-Spec and a R33 GTS-T Series II so I think that I can respond to your question. The GTR is an adrenaline rush every single time that you drive it. It has grip levels that most cars can only dream of. In every area it has performance in reserve (power, handling, braking and grip) for whenever you need it. The car demands your respect and you have to concentrate whenever you drive it. Last but not least you always seem to have you hand in you pocket paying for something on the GTR. By comparison the GTS-T is a street car with good performance, although I have never been shut down by a Holden of a Ford (although I have not tried a XR6 Turbo). It is a much easier car to drive because you do not have to consciously hold it back. It still does everything well in the power, handling and braking areas but it does not have the amazing grip levels of the GTR. The running costs are also much lower and it makes a perfect daily driver. They are both very different animals and I enjoy driving each of them for what they offer.

We really need to think this through. It has been very wet and the rain looks like continuing for days. The last thing that we want is: - The park all cut up by the Lines - this would not make good press, They are always looking for something bad to print about Skylines - With this much water and mud the cars will look like crap anyway - 100 bogged Lines that we have to get some 4WD's to pull out is not a good look Postponing the Show and Shine to a later date when the park will be dry is my preferred option - the trick is to pick the right weekend

Welcome to the Skyline family. I can still remember the excitement of driving home both of my Skylines. The most important thing is to treat her with respect otherwise she WILL bite you. It will take you months after you get your licence to develop the skills to be able to appreciate your line and get the best out of her. I remember when I got my GTS-T - it was so different to my GTR - I spent so much time going sideways until I got used to the comparitive lack of traction.

You have PM.

You have PM