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TurboSE

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Everything posted by TurboSE

  1. I was considering -6 or -8, but at those sizes, I'm not sure how much difference it'd actually make.
  2. Have you noticed cooler temps with your setup? Any possibility of starving the front of the block as mentioned above?
  3. Since the coolant in the rear of block is the hottest and where problems usually start...and since I'm not running a heater in my track car and I was wondering if there were any significant cooling gains to be had by connecting the rear heater boss on the block to the radiator inlet. Any advice is appreciated!
  4. Used this write-up to fit my Nismo shifter to my rb25 tranny, took about 20 minutes with a pair of snap ring pliers for installing/removing the first ring and a pair of needle nose pliers for removing and a pair of adjustable pliers for installing the second snap ring.. Thanks for the great how-to!
  5. My RB26 came with a PowerFC when I purchased it, it did not come with a Commander. I have made several modifications to the engine and I have a few questions about the unit. I have switched to single Precision 6262 turbo, upgraded injectors (RC Engineering 720cc), cams (Tomei Poncams), cam gears, and almost every modification I could think of to reach 500+hp including Eagle rods and CP pistons and a new Ferrea valvetrain. I also scored a free Z32 MAF from a junkyard, but from what I've read, if I want to push more than 550, I'll need two. I've read on PaulR33.com that it is an older unit. And that Nengun may be able to source me a new (old style) Commander. What I am unsure of is whether or not the unit is D-Jetro or L-Jetro. The motor came with upgraded twins, but no MAFs attached. Is there anyway I can find out which version I have? I would like to know because it will determine how I finish my build and how my new wiring harness is built. If it is L-Jetro, would I do better to just sell it off and look for a new management unit for my application? If it's D-Jetro, what do I need to make it work? I'm assuming a MAP and IAT....anything else? If it is D-Jetro, I should see some modifications to the motor already, correct? Everything looks pretty stock. No signs of an IAT tapped anywhere. Where would I source an IAT and MAP? Any other help or info I may be missing would be greatly appreciated. If it's of any importance, here is a link to the company that will be assembling my harness: http://www.chasebays.com/product/nissan-240sx/electronicswiring/chase-bays-engine-harness--nissan-rb26dett
  6. R33 RB25DET OS Giken STR Part #? Does anyone have (or know where I can find)the OS Giken part number for their RB25DET (R33) STR clutch kit? I have tried OS Giken's and many other websites with no luck.
  7. RB25 Damper on RB26? When I began my build, I planned to keep my power steering on my RB26, but I swapped to an RB25 pump to clean up the HICAS lines from my 26 pump. Along with the RB25 pump, I purchased an RB25 Ross Tuffbond Metal Jacket damper. I have decided to depower my rack and have no need for the pump. Is there any reason to buy a damper for the RB26 or can I still use the RB25 unit? The specs on the Ross RB25 unit are similar to the specs on the ATI strip piece... The swap is into an S13 if that matters.
  8. could I tap one of these for my water temp sender?
  9. If running a water-cooled turbo, just run #1 into the turbo and #2 out of the turbo?
  10. RB26DETT coolant routing questions. The basics: No heater. Grex remote oil cooler/thermostat plate. Do 1 and 2 have to be connected if I'm deleting the heater and running a thermostat plate? Is there a way for the coolant from the rear to get to the neck internally? Can 1 and 2 be blocked? If they must be connected, what is a good size tubing or hose to use?
  11. RB26DET - Single Turbo Swap Plumbing Greddy T78. Greddy T78, non-water cooled, non-BB. External wastegate...will these work? #1 oil return from turbo - 3/4BSP or 3/4NPT? Is 12AN too big for an oil drain? #2 oil supply to turbo - M12x1.0 to 4AN? Do I need a restrictor for non-BB? #3 oil return from turbo - Blocked. #4 water from turbo. - Not needed for non-water cooled turbo? #5 boost pressure - To external wastegate? #6 sense line from turbo inlet to boost pressure control solenoid - To boost controller? #7 water to turbo - Blocked on non-water cooled turbo? Thanks in advance!
  12. TTT!!
  13. I am in need of an RB26DETT coil-pack cover. Paint condition isn't important as long as the metal isn't seriously damaged. Color is unimportant. Must being willing to ship to U.S.A. Please message me here or email me: [email protected] Cheers!
  14. I found very little info on these (I assume they're pretty rare), but what I found is "over 15 psi"...I know that doesn't help much, but I've searched 4 different RB-related forums and thats all I've got. Since I'm in the holiday spirit, $600 + shipping... please, someone buy these!
  15. I'll do some research, I have never run them I am asking $650 for the turbos and just throwing the other stuff in with them...but the price is negotiable...
  16. FS: RB26DETT twin turbos with upgraded metal wheels Located in: Hanover, Pa, USA Condition: great Reason: going to single turbo Price (OBO): $650US + shipping I have a set of RB26 R32 turbos. They have been upgraded with metal wheels so they won't fly appart like the stock ones. They are in the stock housings and I couldn't tell you what the specs are on the wheels. They are in very good shape. No shaft play at all. Included with them is the manifolds/O2 housings/Inlet/outlet/and oil lines. Basically the whole TT setup. Interested in RB26 ignitors, adjustable cam gears, Poncams, Top-mount single turbo mani's, and other RB26 perf. parts in trade/partial trade. I know Im new, but I have 30 positive feedback (100%) on eBay (qwkgage)and a lot of great references on www.probetalk.com (TurboSE). If no one wants them, I guess they'll have to go on eBay ($650 will be the reserve)...I will ship for less if there is a part(s) you dont want/need... Pics available: [email protected]
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