Ol_Mate

The product is a direct competitor with the GCG highflow. Stock turbo to ball bearing highflow. It was explicitly stated that no modifications to the stock lines were required. The only change needed was to change the banjo bolts (not the entire fitting, just the threaded part) because the thread on the new core was different. The reality is the oil and water lines need to be changed, the oil drain needs to be modified and the wastegate actuator needs to be modified. The fittings provided look like they are designed for rubber hoses and as such, are completely useless. I personally wouldn't call this a bolt on affair. Thanks for the input.

I've just installed mine this week, I'll get some pics up soon. It's a great product, so easy to install

I just bought a high flow turbo which I was told was a genuine bolt on job. Being fairly new to the scene I thought that bolt on meant it was pretty much a straight swap ie. no stuffing around with oil and water lines / fittings. Instead I get a turbo which isn't even close to being a straight swap. None of the stock oil/water lines match up and the turbo needs to be "clocked" so it matches up with the stock air inlet. These are all questions I should have asked before I got the work done, isn't hindsight great. Anyway, I just wanted to see what other peoples ideas of "bolt-on" were. Cheers

TNT is really good, so is toll priority

Have a look here if you need to catch up http://www.tv-links.co.uk/

which they'll promptly ignore..... cheers jetdat, good to hear somethings happening

so this kinda just died in the arse then eh?

man, look at it this way, it's taken this long to get to this point, what's another 3 months???

Then you're a sook.... jks

I reckon I'm gonna do mine something like this. http://us1.webpublications.com.au/static/i...17/1734_9mg.jpg

take -ve lead off the battery, depress brake pedal, reconnect battery, start car, done.....

I'm glad you posted these pics up as I was about to order a front bar off them this week. It looks like its salvageable. you'll need to do a bit of fibreglassing in order to fix it properly, along with some bogging and sanding. Should come up pretty good if it fits on the car properly.

If you're willing to separate, i'll take the injectors

done, you have a pm

Here are the pics of the lip I have I have test fitted it on the car once and it is the exact same one as in the photo above.

east bear do an ADR approved bonnet. look up a user called "wilch" he has one on his car. can be bought through powerplay imports. have a look here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=119824

cheers man, that looks the biz..

take pics now dude!

another one for speed. i'd rather look at the old issues of speed than buy any of the mags on sale at the moment. then again, I see why they binned it in favour of quality publications like "2DMAX". :esarcasm:

I've got one that I don't want, willing to let it go for the right price.

I'd be in for supply of a plug and play microtech LT12s for an r33 sent to cairns. If the price is right

yeah, i've paid too

I think I probably should have explained myself a little better in regards to journal bearings and the RB26DETT. In the late 80's and early 90's, ball bearing technology hadn't progressed to the point where they were suited to high RPM, high temperature conditions found in turbochargers. Also cost of manufacture was a big issue. So, as I'm sure you know, the majority of turbocharged vehicles manufactured at this time ran with a sleeve/journal bearing for reliability, friction and cost issues. They did so for years with great results. But as ball bearing technology progressed, it was found that they actually exerted less friction on the shaft than a sleeve bearing. With less friction they were able to make the turbos more efficient and more responsive than they ever could with journal/sleeve bearings. As far as I know, and correct me if I'm wrong, R32 GT-R's had a sleeve bearing turbo setup all around, R33 GT-R's had a ball bearing turbo but the R33 N1 remained sleeve bearing and R34 GT-R's had twin ball bearing cores all around. As a result, I'm not sure what you are referring to here: Anyway, I was just trying to clear up the fact that in the early variants of the RB26DETT, sleeve bearings were the go due to technology of the time. But as it was further developed ball bearing cores were adopted due to the lower friction they exerted on the shaft. As for the reliability of each type of bearing, they each have their flaws. Journals are mainly affected by dirty oil problems and are susceptible to axial load issues due to the thrust bearing setup. They are also more sensitive to low oil pressure such as at start and shutdown of the motor (which wouldn't really be an issue if you actually looked after the car). Ball bearings are affected if they are not cooled sufficiently and are pretty much a throw away item if the bearings let go. I'm going to try and source some dyno sheets from these turbos in particular as well as a couple of GCG and Slide hi flows as well. Might take a little while though.

I disagree that its a "downgrade" completely. However, I don't think that the comment justified you completely writing off ball bearing highflows from this particular company. You gotta remember that was a comment from the user, not the company. Why? Because if you're not a trader on SAU or have Sydneykid's seal of approval then you're automatically a fraud?? These aren't good enough reasons to dismiss these turbo's. If you rang around like I have, you would find that they are quite reputable. No, not at all. Journal bearings better suited the applications on the RB26DETT. Just like ball bearings were better suited for the RB25DET. Whats the point of this comment? Are you trying to say that journal bearings are more reliable than a ball bearing in a turbo application? Where's the evidence saying that an oil feed failure to the turbo is less likely than a ball bearing failure? At the end of the day, everything fails, it's just a matter of time. If you can find me a BRAND NEW Garrett turbo rated to 500hp that is a true bolt on replacement (ie. no stuffing around with oil and water lines whatsoever) for the standard item for under $1550, I'll buy it..... That simple...

Put me down for a R33 S2 Highflow then