GH05T

ok so the link i posted was for the spherical type so ignore. the bushed type is out of stock http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=20359&cat=&page=1 they do have bushed type in stock from SRI, any good? they are cheper which i dont like, http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=16598&cat=&page=1 still unsure if their is a difference for the RS4S, i know my model has a different rear subframe to some?

hey 4bidn1, where do people get achillies from? is there a go-to-guy for pricing and such?

Can anyone CONFIRM for me the width of the standard R34 GTT 17" wheels cannot seem to confirm if they are 17X7+40 or 17X7.5+40??

let me know how you go, i have contacted justjap, just to confirm that part suits the RS4-S, thanks for the model codes for the swaybars, gonna get onto them, whiteline also the the camber parts but i spoke to SK the other day and me mentioned whiteline parts are 4 months out of stock and unnavailable untill further notice. i have read the difference between pollowball and bushed type and i know i want the bushed type....but i cant viaually tell the difference, i dont know what im looking at.

yeah i assumed i needed camber arms, the justjap arms, are they the spherical bearing type? (sorry another noob Q) which model am i needing, R33gtr? i remember one type fouled on the strut and one didnot, I assume this one? reembering RS4-S? http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=20060&cat=&page=1 i will look into the R33 rods for caster, are the gtr rods the upgrade or do i generally need aftermarket rods to suit the gtr? Yeah the bushes will be all i will use to sort the front out, depending on what camber it ends up at with the bush i will probably end up with -1º ish anyway. With the swaybars I will sort out the other bits and see how it goes but even with the coilovers reducing some roll their is plenty left, it needs to be tightened. if the front and back are both larger then i willprobably need at minimum 24mm solid front and back maby both set to hard? thanks for the help, i really appreciate it.

sexy sexy wheels

Ok, I have just read through the 55 pages of the thread. Firstly thanks to SK for beginning and quarterbacking such a golden thread even if he isn't really around anymore. I have learnt allot just reading which I wish people did more of. I have written allot of notes and have allot of questions, slowly ticking off my questions but I still have holes to fill and some advice needed. I am currently setting up the suspension in my C34 SR4-S series II. This is an epic post so here we go… I have recently fitted a new set of BC BR coilovers as I have used them before and liked them. I opted to go for a slightly softer spring over the standard and ended up with 7kg fronts and 5kg rears. I haven’t played around too much with the heights as it landed fairly close to what I like which is fairly low. A little bit too low to be honest but I’m fitting 18 wheels to replace my 17s so the wheel centre will be raised by 1/5 inch anyway. Firstly the camber is way off, visibly to far negative and the wheels foul against the struts without spacers so I looked into adjusting the camber and started reading…now I am looking to adjust everything I can to get a car which is going to give good handline and good tire wear. This is what I have so far in knowledge of what I need and some questions on what parts and how, Any help is appreciated. Camber: Stock camber adjustment is only good to about 0.25° It seems I can either go camber bushes or Camber arms From what I have read, camber bushes will take out camber but only to a certain degree, after that I will need camber arms. With the bushes anything as low as 340/330 will require 1F and 2R bushes. With the 17wheels im measuring the center of the wheel to the guard lip at 303mm (assuming the new 18” wheels will make that 315mm ish) we can take it as needing camber arms! Now my first question is which are the preferred/ better suited camber arms? I keep reading that pillow ball or “spherical bearings” are noisy and wear fast, as I do allot of driving I want to shy away from these so I think I need a “bushed camber arm”? I picked up somewhere maybe a whiteline option may be the best? Either KTA117a? Or KTA128? Can anyone shed any light on the model for a Manual 4wd C34? OK moving on to… Caster: I’m reading allot of “you need more caster in the stag” I understand Stags get less caster from nissans design compared to the skyline but why do we need caster, does this give you more turning ability or high speed stability? Sorry I know that’s a very open question. So I need arms to give me more caster and I have 2 main options, -Whitelines which adjust further than stock (I read “80” somewhere) -And nolteck /JJR which adjust to “130” (Sorry I can’t remember what the 80/130 is measured in) but I shouldn't go past “80” as I don’t want fast wearing control arm bushes and over extended drive shafts which makes sense. So it seems whiteline is the best and easiest option. What part number am I buying to do this? where/ who do i buy from? It seems the 4WD models need 4WD specific parts? Swaybars: Ok, so I understand sway bars should really be first on my list of mods and they are, I’m basically doing everything together as fast as I can to fit new wheels and sort issues out together. I’m sure I will simply get whiteline sway bars and I have basically gottn’ my head around what’s interchangeable with gts/gtrs but I keep reading slightly different things, At the end of the day what model numbers do I need for front and rear sway bars? Remembering it’s a RS4-S factory manual 4WD Should I go 22mm or 24mm F/R? Setup: For a simple setup daily driver with good hills abilities, no track work and I like a low car as said… FRONT Caster L as far forward as possible R the same – 1/4° for road camber Camber 0° Toe 0° Swaybars Soft (already a huge improvement over standard size) REAR Camber L -0.5° R -0.5 ° (up to -1°) Toe L -2mm R -2mm (to stop the rear wandering on highways) Swaybars Hard (keep the wagon ass in check, not a huge size increase over stock) Please pick apart what I have learnt if I’m on the wrong track and as said thanks in advance for any answers with part numbers and knowledge, I have tried my best reading the whole thread and compiling as much info as i can before posting and I have learnt allot, I’m a suspension setup noob in comparison to some and I’m am trying to get a decent setup the proper way. i also encourage all stog owners to read this entire thread or atleast the first 10 pages! Glyn

Hey Zx, that's basically what im trying to work out. i do 600km a week, half highway driving, half city, sometimes spirited hills drives/ cruises, highspeed large roundabouts i have bridgestone....somethings maby re001 or the 050 i dunno, on my current 17s, amazing tires, i have had khumo ku31 on my R32, not bad for the cost. getting mixed feedback on Achilles but i know they are bang for buck the best for cheap. im not interested in ku36 for 600km per week i dont want a semi slick, the bridgestones seem to have good life and well good all round. Achilles will be damn cheap and for $1100 the bridgestone will be the best for that price (seeing as i cant seem to find any under $1500 fitted) it seems i just need to decide to i cheap out and go Achilles or spend the extra and get the bridgestones.

any sunday, lets do it. a good north to south or south to north day trip through the hills. get some suggestions of good roads and link them up.

ill take the ugg boots

hmmm, RE002 are about $350 on ebay in 245/40/18 the price i got was $267each....whcih is starting to look quite good.

which is odd, as they have the same underwriters/ assessors/ repairers and are both owned by aami

as far as i know it should go on with no dramas using stock mounting holes. im 99% sure the prev owner removed it from his R34, i was going to fit it to mine but the car sold first.

i probably will yeah

C34 Front bar Sold

R34 Rear bar SOLD pending payment

true but seriosuly when were talking a difference of 550km- 250km, i dont think brimmed vs filled is going to mean too much.

lol

we should set a date early next year when xmas dies down a bit. book a sunday volvo drive.

oh sorry i mean RE001 or RE002

so hard to do so, they just keep going and kids keep buying their cars. wait untill you get into their service department

yes

Vouwtcshers

which is the better tire? tread pattern looks identical

yeah not too bad, my problem is im not sure what price increase is worth the dollars, for instance im looking at things like achillies for cheap vs a bit more for khumo which i think is worth it, but should i spend even more and get the bridgestones? am i getting a huge ammount more for my money or am i just getting the next tire in the line.