GH05T

i had a similar problem once on a different car, my clutch slave had broken its mount. follow the mechanical parts its not disengaging somewhere slave master clutch fork lines ect

sounds angry as f**k..... love it

i have someone who can translate from japanese. can anyone find these codes and screenshot for me with the full japanede parts?

no, but i suspect new door trims. whats the m / g?

dont forget the other costs Item Cost: 100,000¥ Japanese Domestic Freight: 2,500¥ Import Monster Commission: 20,000¥ EMS Freight: 6,000¥ Total Japan Costs: 128,500¥ Exchange Rate: $1AUD buys: 91.7¥ Australian Domestic Freight: N/A Sub Total: $1,401.31 GST: $140.13 Total: $1,541.44

lol..............................standard price...............

someone posted on the sau fb page that the tail lights were quoted at $1100 so looks like its getting parted for good money for the wrecker. also someone calling them R34 style lights...... sigh

never seen there page before, they seem to have allot of good wrecks. sad that noone took an adm 32 for a resto

passed onto a man who just might, good spot but yeah, thats not going to be cheap. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/453426-r32-n1-cluster-hood-and-hazard-switch/

http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=http://page7.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/g148778575&thumb=http://auctions.c.yimg.jp/img377.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/5/8/7/6/btfk44kiku43-thumb-1422445697380038.jpg&title=

yeah i went, was an epic meet, i'm guessing 2-3000 cars. 32 ran well, had a chance to really rev it out and go for a decent drive which was nice. On the run i pulled up at a set of lights next to a white 32gtr to which i strongly suggested he give me his grey dished panasports.... he declined met him after and turns out he is Josh , owner of Forge Performance who i might go and see for a few things along the way which we discussed, nice bloke, not sure if i have seen him on here. on that topic, we were discussing the car and some of its oddities/ rarities which include no rear wiper all the n1 bits (bonnet lip, sideskirts, rear spoiler (albeit missing) vents ect) nismo 260 dash we have been looking into its VIN which is still a bit perplexing, especially the last 3 digits which seem to be early 89 model only. currently checking it out in the fast thread to see what it spits out, but it seems all the parts on the car are genuine and not just stuck on after which is nice to know. will report back if it brings up anything of real interest.

much nicer exhuast

so more info suggests the following M = P+Q (Climate control + upgraded sound) Z = Cold pack? G = B+D (ABS + Visc LSD) still unsure as M states elsewhere about the wiperless windscreen which i do have. so much conflicting info on the 89s, awaiting a propper FAST result.

ok more research shows allot of conflicting info M: Limited slip diff/ rear wiper less (which i have) ??? Z: Cold weather pack/ early n1 spec ??? G: still nothing

very good figures, looks like it comes on like a rocket, must be a big boot in the back

so spot on

i get that, its diff bush for me.

stock boost controller is there and plumbed in, dosnt act like any boost leak and hits stock boost only. i will get on it when i have a chance. probably when i get the plenum off to do the throttle linkages.

can someone help me out with my 32gtr with fast the normal decoding key shows most of mine except the last 3 letters. K: Coupe B: 2.6L (GTR) N: Super Hicas + Attessa R32: 8th Generation Skyline R: 2 Doors X: GTR (16 Inch Wheels) F: 5 Speed Manual S: Intercooler + Turbo + EGI L: Fog Lights MZG: ???

love the wheels, my head is slowly moving away from the meister/professor style of stepped lips and bolted centers (which i still hrrrng for) and really appreciating smooth spoked/ concave wheels. and those are a nice classic.

k_d there is another pipe taking that up will investigate the sump side when i get it in the air, cant see shit from under the bonnet. on the hicas light, i will check the fuse, its annoying that it follows the exact 10km and fail symptom with the new steering wheel, is the stock boss not doing something maby? my thoughts are going back to just pulling the bitch out and getting the martini locks. in reading the hicas removal threads i do like the idea that you can plumb the unused system properly so that the hicas light still functions for low fluid or pump failing errors.

realy keen to see the paint in propper light with a good camera!

cos im bored

Hi mate, still for sale, also which series of BC are these?