jlaudio_33

6 x 9s and subs, why? you will presumably be high passing your speakers at approx 80 hz anyway defeating the purpose of havin 6x9s to get a bit of extra bass plus just my personal opinion but they sound shit

i would say you should forget about what brand to focus on for the moment as you haven't said whether you prefer the sound of 10s 12s 15s 18s also what type of music you listen to whether you prefer one sub or two what type of box you are planning to run how much power you are going to put in and how much you intend to spend on an amp

what sort of criteria defines the best layout in your assignment? I would base the whole thing on the main set of speakers being built into the kick panels, which is the part in front of the door next to your feet on side of the car i.e. left of your feet if you are a passenger and right if you are on driver side. The idea behind this is that it lessens the difference in distance between the listener and the two speakers either side of the listener. The reason for this is to make it as close as possible to a situation where you are sitting directly in the centre of the two speakers like in a home HiFi environment. Remember that high frequency sounds are the most directional so where you mount and direct your tweeters (assuming you are using component speakers) is the most important. You should point your tweeters so that the sound from both sides meets in between the two front seats or at the drivers head if you didn't have to worry about it sounding good to a passenger. hope that helps

just to clear it up a dual 2 ohm sub will present a 4 ohm load if you run the two coils in series or 1 ohm if you run the two coils in parallel. Same principle as wiring two single voice coil subs you can only double or half the impedance with each addition so two four ohm subs wired together will run at 2 or 8. So the jaycar two channels are okay if the sub has two ohm coils, the audiobahn A8000T will give give 400rms at 4 ohm or 800 rms at two ohm. Mass_iv has also got dual 2 ohm subs as both subs would be wired in series to four ohms and the two subs would be wired in parallel to the amp to bring it back to two.

I think the first thing to check is if it is dual 2 or dual 4 ohm voice coils coz a dual four will only run at two or eight ohms thus a monobloc and a dual two will only run at 1 or 4 so probably look at a two channel and bridge it. Just out of curiosity how much are you guys paying for the suitable jaycar amps just so i know what sort of budget you are shopping with. W3s are hot man especially in the ported box but don't feel bad about giving it 400-500 wrms they love it as long as its clean power trust me. Run mine in the shop (JB HiFi) in qld off a 500/1 and it is tight as. If you really want to hear it sing try a jl e1400D (if its a dual 4) and you'll never go back. If its a dual two ohm (less likely) go to JB and check the prices on coustic 600S two channels for comparison to jaycar stuff they are good for 350wrms bridged and sound great on subs especially for under $300.

hey cuzz33 just a quick word on the monobloc situation. Firstly go back and read everything djhatton has said as its right on the money. Power ratings on speakers and subs mean very close to nothing and depend on box type and size and a lot of other factors as well as being stupidly inflated and generally pointless. I know you said you already got a box but don't think you mentioned if it was sealed or ported but anyway i'll leave the amp power choice up to you but whatever you buy make sure you check the THD or total harmonic distortion ratings to make sure the amp can operate at the given ratings without sounding shit or blowing your gear up. If you can't get hold of THD ratings or if they are above 0.5% then you may want to think twice, if they are above 1% then turn around and run away. A really sweet monobloc will stay close to or at 0.1% at its rated power but even 0.2 or 0.3% should still be fine if you've got enough power, and like djhatton said you can never ave too much clean power (rated in rms of course) You said from the offset that start that you were after a monobloc amp but most monoblocs are made to work at their best at two ohms impedance, your sub is four ohms so the same amp will be making right on half the amount of power as it would be at two ohms. The other option for making some decent power to a four ohm sub is to get a two channel and bridge the two channels. When hooked up to your four ohm sub both channels will be working at two ohms to create total resistance of four anyway so you'll be getting good power for your money and a heap more power than twice what each channel will run by itself. Something to look into anyway

hey dezz, i know your posts are a couple weeks old but just thought id post on the chance that you'll check this before you spend your hard earned cash. I do work for JB but in qld so please enjoy my humble unbiased opinion. I read through all you guys posts and was glad to see you get a lot of good advice from everyone such as the importance of SD and some good gear recommendations, however, please understand its great to shop off the net and educate yourself on specs and prices but please do yourself the favour of checking a few shops and listening to the splits on offer before you commit to anything. Also if i can give you one piece of advice to hang onto its that everyone has very different opinions on the exact same matters because everyone has different tastes and preferences and you need to work out yours rather than listen to the person who sounds the most confident about what is the best gear around. Firstly i appreciate you wanting to keep it all a uniform brand and pioneer at that but for what its worth and again just my personal opinion but to put my opinion bluntly pioneer decks are fantastic, pioneer splits are great, pioneer subs are nice and pioneer amps are fairly nice. Nothing pioneer sells is rubbish but please remember there is a lot of awesome brands that do awesome products to compare the pioneer stuff too. My biggest concern with the setup you have your eye on is that the TSW306C is going to be far from impressive running off the back channels of the GM6100. These subs can be made to sound good but not with any less that 300wRMS into them and preferable closer to 400rms. As in get a seperate amp and part with $300-400+ for anything resembling a decent result. Okay i'm probably boring everyone a bit but just a quick word on the no back speakers issue. More speakers in a car will always sound like a good idea in theory but very rarely true. Imagine just using a four channel amp like the one you have mentioned for front and rear speakers and you have a car with a fair bit of noise in it. Preferable option for myself personally would be bridge the front and rear channels of the four channel to run just the front two speakers and forget about rears altogether to get the absolute best out of the speakers that matter the most . "Imaging" got mentioned a few posts back and to clarify this basically means being able to sit in the front seats of your car, shut your eyes and be able to distinguish where the different players of a band for example are standing on the stage in front of you. This can also be enhanced by getting a deck with time alignment or time correction such as the DEHP-8650 to centralise your left and right channels around your head like your sitting in the middle of the car. Might sound a bit pointless with the sub sitting behind you anyway but remember the bass from a sub or subs has no real direction and in properly tuned systems it is very hard to shut your eyes and point to where the sub is located because it will just reflect off the front windscreen and help to establish the imaginary stage on your dashboard if you are just running front speakers. With the money you save on buying rear speakers and running a decent amp for them you can spend a few extra dollars on your front splits or your speaker amp. Also you mentioned just running your rear speakers off the deck which is can be done but basically means you will have to fade your sound to the front speakers every time you want to push your system hard anyway or tolerate the harsh and distorted sound screaming from the back of your car. Okay wrote way too much sorry if that was painful to read but hope it helps you out a bit and if you have any more questions or want some gear recommendations i'll be checking back.