Trex101

Jay Leno, world renown car guy and collector talk about his using top quality Redline gear oil for his car and bike collection. Very interesting video. Jay Leno and Redline http://widgets.nbc.com/o/4727a250e66f9723/...30bb16b6bac5eed

Contrary to popular belief, multi-ground does not mean multi-spark. The spark will only jump once at a time to the lowest resistance ground. Multi-Ground

The number of ground electrode doesn't improve the intensity of the spark, it only serve to prolong plug life by distributing the spark erosion among the 2 electrode. The key to stronger spark are smaller centre electrode provided by iridium or platinum, the smaller the centre electrode the better. Ignition sequence

Depends on how cold it gets, it's not too thick really as 10w is spec (ASTM D-5293) to flow at -25'c. A good Synthetic will have a lower cP then a mineral though.

Yes, Harold is right. Power steering fluid are in fact hydraulic fluid like ATF, so any Dexron III ATF will worked as power steering fluid.

Chuckie, from your UOA. Pb (bearings) look abit on the high side, you should ask your lab test the Vis@100'c next time, that will tell you how much shearing or thickening over your 20k oci (oil change interval). Low Si (air filtration) is good though. A TBN (total base number) or TAN (total acid number) test will also tell you how acidic your oil is. I would suggest you sample your oil at around 6-8k interval, if PB is much lower then it could be corrosive wear (from the high TAN in your oil) instead of normal abrasive wear. fyi, high TAN are usually cause by depleted TBN due to long oci. Your UOA looks ok but could be better with lower oci but one thing for sure, 5w40 viscosity is perfect for your type of driving and usage. Oh, it would be easier to read what you are trying to say by paragraphing your messages. "CAPITAL wording" online is aka to shouting, pls don't do that.

It's too thick, buy another bottle of Penrite 5w30 and mix 60/40 to thin it down.

Depend on how's your shifting now, if it feel notchy and difficult in engaging, then the MTL(70w80) would work better then thicker 75w90 oil as the thinner oil will squeeze out faster from the syncro thus promoting quick positive shift. RL lightweight shockproof & 75w90 gear oil do already contain LSD additives, the amount of additional LSD additives to add will depends on the level of LSD noise(how tight or losses is the LSD). There's no real answer to your question, it's more of an educated guess with trial and error thing. I would suggest you add a quart of 75w90 to your front with remaining MTL and see what happens.

IMO RL 75w90 would do just nice for your rear. The cluck from the front can either be due to mechanical problem or lack of correct friction modifier from the fluid. A good LSD load fluid like light weight shock proof would normally do the trick(can use RL LSD Fluid), MTL (70w80) would give very good shift & protection for syncro but would not cure your "cluck" noise which i suspect it's from the after market LSD. It's really difficult to advice you which fluid will work or not as we don't even know what type of after market LSD is in there. I would advice you to try the likeliest solution first, try and error.

It got nothing to do with engine oil brand, 0 pressure can only mean mechanical fault, probably loses sensor cable or connector. For a oil to reach 0 pressure, it had to sheared below 10wt or less, not likely for a synthetic oil.

Sorry, OT on this question. Anyone knows where to get cheap car rental in Melbourne? I'll be coming over this Nov to visit my family and friends. A million thanks in advance

Diff - Motul Gear300 75w-90w Gearbox - Motul Gear300 75w-90w (Redline lightweight shockproof) Engine - Motul Xcess8100 5w-40w Coolant - Castrol Anti Freeze Brake Fluid - Any Dot 4 or Dot 5.1 brake fluid Power Steering - Any Dexron III spec ATF fluid will do

Why don't you just ask Harold from performancelub.com about the shipping charge?

I did a scan with my anti-virus and come up with nothing, it's safe going into this site. no problem. oh, you could email Harold at [email protected] if you have any enquiry, he quite a helpful chap who will try to answer your questions.

100% mean sh#t nowadays. It can be anything from 100% group III to V, so go figure.

Not familar with Castrol Edge but the 5w30 could possibly be group III. Only a few Castrol oil type are PAO. The 0wXX type are probably PAO as they need the PAO for such low cranking point.

How do you define 100% Synthetic? Technically, engine oil consist of 70-80% base oil + 20-30% additives carrier fluid. The oil can be call a Fully Synthetic once the base fluid are 100% group III grade & above. The formulation of modern oil is very complex and can't be judge base purely on base fluid (but of course a group IV or V fluid will be more value than group III). A well formulated oil got to have good base fluid couple with strong anti-wear additives package, one can't just work without the other. Group I - mineral Group II/II+ - hydrocrak (VI below 120) Group III - hydrocrack (VI above 120, mineral derive "Fake Synthetic") Group IV - polyalphaolefin (man made Synthetic) Group V - Ester & other un-group fluid (Ester or Polyolester, super high grade Synthetic, good for aircraft jet engine). Well, to answer your question. In my opinion MOBIL 1 --- are using group IV base fluid aka Fully Synthetic MOTUL --- depends on type, the 300V are using group V ester base, race spec fully synthetic. NULON (crap though) --- don't know about this brand but i doubt it good stuffs since they promote PTFE in their oil additives. REDLINE - group V Polyolester + very overdose of anti-wear additives, race spec fully synthetic.

You got to be joking.

You know, i can get better wear reading with head and shoulder shampoo then all these oil tested. The chorine in there are a very good extreme pressure additives, it just that when you include it in your engine oil combine with moisture, you will form hydrochloride acid.

This article from StreetCommodore is very misleading, this Timken test are only good for grease, not oil. The editor has admitted the test is flawed and not representatives of actual engine condition. StreetCommodore reply: http://www.streetforce.com.au/news/01_oils_aint_oils.php

Pressure is directly proportion to viscosity, the thicker it is the higher is the pressure. This also mean higher pressure will have lower flow rate. You need both flow rate and pressure to fully optimize the operation of the oil system. IMO 50wt oil is just too thick for most application except racing or autocross....

The StreetCommodores editor has admitted that the test is flawed & not representative of actual engine condition in one of their articles. Street Commodores did indeed print a retraction and apology to its readers. This simple Timken test is only good for grease then actual oil performance. http://www.streetforce.com.au/news/01_oils_aint_oils.php

That's a hard choice. First, I would choose the cheaper of the 2, but if both are the same price, personally i would choose M1 0w40. Delvac 1 though very well build couple with good base stock & additives pack, it still a dual rate oil (petrol/diesel API SL/CI-4+), this limits the friction modifier in the oil thus may affect FC and throttle responses. That’s why I’m slightly biases against D1 but it is still my first choice for 4-stroke bike though.

There is alot of factors to consider when choosing oil weight and it's quite difficult to give you any good advice by your above description. There are 2 major considerations in choosing oil viscosity, 1) Fuel dilution (fuel blowby into oil sump effectively thin down the oil viscosity) Thicker oil can withstand more fuel dilution then thinner oil but thicker oil also causes friction drag, slower spool, higher FC and more startup wear. For example: If you run Penrite Sin 25 25w60 in your engine, at 10’c morning when you first crank your engine, you would have effectively run 1131cSt startup viscosity. That’s like 4.5 time thicker then Mobil 1 0w40 (248.8cSt@10’c). It’s like running greases through your engine instead of oil. 2) Engine oil temp Higher oil temp effectively thins the oil down. For example: Mobil 1 0w40 is 14.3cSt @ 100'c but when avg oil temp raise to 120'c, it would have thin down to 9.1cSt which mean that it is effectively a 20wt oil (you do not want to run a 20wt oil when you racing down a track, do you). So if your avg oil temp are 90’c, any 30wt oil will do as it is effectively a 40wt oil at that temperature. The key to the correct oil viscosity depends on mostly the above 2 conditions. There is no one size fit all oil. Oh, IMO some brand of oil are known to withstand quite abit of fuel dilution before thinning down. Redline & German Castrol is one of them. That’s why it’s highly recommended in BITOG for track or high hp muscle car usage.

Do a used oil analysis, khunjeng knows where to get it. Is your engine having oil consumption? If yes, find the root cause first & fix it before you try new oil.