Trex101

If budget is no issue, use ester base Redline 10w40 or 5w40. The ester will slowly but surely clean all the junk out of the engine.

Try a 40wt first, if no oil consumption then try something lower like a synthetic 10w30

Go with plastic safe electro contact cleaner. Do not use carb clearner, it will leave a oily layer on the sensor.

Yes, ester is better in alot more ways than normal PAO synthetic but it comes at a price. Delvac 1 is dual rated API SL and CI-4+, API SL = suitable for petrol engine CI-4+ = suitable for high output diesel engine

I'm work as a aircraft mechanic as my day job and import/supply performance lub to local clubs as a sideline/hobbies. Motul 8100 5w40 may not contain ester in it's oil formulation. You may want to choose 8100 0w40 if it's ester you are looking for . Yes, Delvac 1 5w40 are fully synthetic using a blend of PAO/ester couple with a pretty strong additives pack and it's cheap too over in Aussie. Another good read about polyolester. polyolester - redline oil

Most likely Magnatec are using group II base oil which contend some element of ester. Ester has been added to some engine oil for it polar effect which 'cling' onto any surface it pass thus lower the startup wear. Oh not all oil are added with ester as ester are 5 times more expensive than mineral base stock. Now you know why Redline are hell of expensive when compare to normal synthetic... Some oil i know that contain ester Redline - mostly ester base Motul 300V - mostly ester base Fuchs silkorene - mostly ester Delvac 1 - small percentage of ester Magnatec - unknown percentage of ester (likely small amount)

It's a dual rated oil with API SL (petrol)/CI-4 rating (diesel). This oil is make up of mostly group IV/V plus a very strong additives package due to the fact that diesel engine are alot more stressful & high load environment for the oil than petrol engine. If it's cheap, use it. This oil can last much longer than 10k km OCI anytime.

That's cheap, use it.

Not familiar with Fuchs GTO... Is it semi or fully syn? For turbo application, best to use group IV fully syn oil. I read from BITOG that you guys can get Mobil Delvac 1 5w40 for AU$30+ bucks per 5L. That's hell of a good deal over there. Go get that oil, it's a top notch oil for that type of pricing...

Yah... expensive but its good stuffs.

This is what we are getting for in Spore. mxtradings

How much have you guys been paying for a quart of Redline over here?

No, M1 0w30 has not been supersede by M1 10w30. IMO The 10w30 will work great in your weather condition.

FYI 0w30 doesn't mean it's thinner than 10w30. It only mean that this oil can flow at certain temp below freezing, the 0w mean winter rating. Motor oil Use Module 3 calculator if you want to know your start-up viscosity at ambient temperature. Viscosity calculator

You are welcome.

So what exactly does Nissan spec for this transmission? Gear lub viscosity? GL-4 or GL-5? LSD or non-LSD?

This is a interesting article by Wearcheck on accelerated wear cause by dirt/dust ingestion. It will explain more on how the dirt is ingest and wear it cause. Wearcheck

Some interesting read on air filter. Autospeed BITOG

This is what the filter manufacturer wants you to think. More airflow will result in more dirt ingestion even with well oil filter. Oh don't overoil the filter, you may damage the AFM sensor. It's good preventive practice to use plastic safe electro contact cleaner to clean the sensor.. prolong sensor life and accuracy.

Yes, HTHS stand for High Temp High Shear using ASTM D4683. It the oil viscosity under hydrodynamic lubrication at 150'c, a good indicator of (under hydrodynamic lubrication) wear protection in high load and stress situation. HTHS will drop if the oil do shear over useage/time, so choosing a good oil is very important for engine wear protection. Synthetic oil do normally shear less than mineral but only UOA (used oil analysis) can tell the condition of your oil and engine.

Are you using open pod filter? If yes, change back to stock. Open pod let in more dust so oil get darken quicker.

Thinner oil will has less drag on the engine component during operation. It will actually increase hp and improve your FC with thinner oil but the cons are lower HTHS at 150'c. This is the oil thickness when the oil reach 150'c during load or stress. The best oil would be a thin 30wt oil with high HTHS. It will give you good hp and FC plus great protection during full throttle run. IMO Redline 5w30 with HTHS of 3.8 are make up of mostly polyolester (group V) base stock couple with killer additives are the best money can buy. The oil film strength at high temp are stronger than most 40wt fully synthetic oil in the market. FYI Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0w40 HTHS are only 3.6

If you choose 15w50 oil, you must not floor your ride for the first 20min before your engine oil is up to temp. Anyway 15w50 will cause more startup wear, not suitable for short trip or city driving.

Motul 4100 is semi-synthetic, i couldn't find it's product data sheet so i don't know how's it cold flow or HTHS. IMO, i would choose a oil with good startup flow (depend on ambient temp) and high HTHS, how you know the figure? Check out it's product data sheet.

In USA they do have summer too. Places like Texas or New Mexico are pretty damn hot during some part of the Summer.