KrayzieGTR

Bump on this as I am looking for pretty much the same for the GTS-t

Hey Mik and everyone else, Sorry to revive an old thread and not too sure if you still visit the site but thought you all may be interested in where the car has ended up. The missus and i purchased it from a guy in Canberra in around July/August last year and have been slowly getting her back to strength and using it to learn and compete in drifting here in Sydney. I was just searching for some info in regards to flaring the guards a little more due to some new suspension and steering changes and found this page by accident. Reading through some of this thread i am very glad i brought this car now as it look as though, and is shown in the cars current drive line etc. that a good job was done in the first place. You would probably be a little disappointing with where the paint etc has ended up but it is still a very strong car taking everything we throw at it so far. Thanks for doing such a good job Mik, feel free to ask any questions if you have any.

Cheers thanks mate.. i would sure hope so with all the time and effort so far. Still plenty to do

Hey everyone, I know it has been a while now and not too sure how many people were actually following this thread in the first place but thought I would provide an update about this build and let you all know where we have ended up after all the research and feedback from you all. Since the last post things have come along way and have changed and adjusted the whole way. Good news is we are now not too far from having everything here and ready to go back together. As a few people stated previously in this thread, I have made sure as much as possible that it will be done right the first time. So after a lot of time and obviously money this is where we currently stand. ENGINE - CP Pistons (9:1), OEM Rods, OEM Crank, ACL Bearings (Main and Big End), APR Bolts and Studs, OEM Harmonic Balancer, N1 Oil Pump with Reimax Gears and Crank Collar, All Balanced, TOMEI Sump Baffles, Oil Gallery Restrictor, Checked and Cleared Oil Returns. HEAD - A Bunch of Porting, Polishing and matching, Type B Cams, Type A Springs, Full Refresh of Valves/Guides etc., E85 Cam Baffles and Adj. Cam Gears. MANIFOLDS, ACCESSORIES ETC - OEM Manifolds, Port Matched and Extrude Honed, Enlarged and polished ITB's (resealed and shaft re profiled), Nismo Gasket Kit (1.2mm Head Gasket), R34 Fuel Rail, Splitfire Coil Packs, Oil Cooler Kit, Haltech Plat Pro with 3 Bar MAP, Loom Tidy Up and Check, Ceramic Coat Exh. Manifolds, Exhaust Housing, Dumps and Front Pipe, All new OEM Water, Power Steering and A/C Hoses and a Hard Pipe Kit for Rubber Intake Hoses only. TURBOS - haven't been purchased yet but most likely a customised twin set up in the range of GTX or -5 UNDECIDED - Type and size of injectors (probably 1000cc Denso) and suspension mostly. Pretty much everything is ready to go except a little bit of ceramic coating and a few final bits and pieces. Hopefully it will all start to speed up a bit from here. Thanks again for all the help previously for anyone who contributed. Feel free to ask any questions if you have any and hopefully it won't be another 2 years for the next update haha

Hey guys, I am looking for the Greddy intake pipe set that replaces the factory rubber hoses. Not too fussed on external finish as they will be prepped and powder coated black. Id you have a old set lying around i would love to take them off your hands. Thanks guys

Cheers Ben, from what i can tell its just a coolant and vacuum pipe and was just going to blow it out thoroughly with comp air or somthing. Does anyone know what the valve/rattle is for?

Hey guys, sorry for another thread revival but i cant seem to find much info about the coolant/vacuum pipe where the coolant bleed screw is located. This was the best info i found so far so thought id ask ☺ I have my engine apart and have been cleaning, prepping spraying etc everything. A mate helped me sand blast alot of different pipes and brackets along the way and i believe there now might be a small amount of sand inside this tube. I just wanted to know how bad this could potentially be and what would be the best way to clear it all out? Any tips and info about the pipe would be very appreciated. Cheers

ENGINE IS OUT and everything has been stripped. FINALLY!! Hey all, just thought I would give a bit of an update on where I am at with everything. During the last week we have finally pulled the engine and have stripped it completely down to just block with in a few days and so far there is no big surprises or big news. The only signs of wear etc. are on the Main Bearings (2 of them worn on one side more than the other so other then a line bore and standard refreshing required only) so it doesn't look like there is a lot to be too concerned about. Decision has been made, with the help of the engine rebuilders, that we are going to do pretty much a full rebuild with hopefully reliability and useable street power the main focuses. So far the list for the block and internals are as follows - - One-Size over Forged JE or CP Pistons - 86.5mm - New Big End and Main Bearings (ACL or King) - Check Crank for straightness and just Linish if OK - Factory Rods with New ARP Rod Bolt - New Harmonic Balancer - Line Bore - Cylinder Hone etc. - Skim Head and Block - New 1.2mm Nismo Head Gasket - ARP Head Stud Kit - Full Head Refresh - Re-Seat Valves, Seals etc. - N1 Oil Pump with Crank Collar fix - Complete Bottom End Balance - All seals and Gaskets as well as New Belts, Factory Hoses etc. The things I still haven't decided and would love some feedback on is - - Porting of the Head while it is being overhauled. I have heard there isn't huge gains to be had and that it would cost around $700-$800 to do. I love the idea of having it done but unsure if worth it. - Cams - I will definitely be doing the cams with adjustable gears with the head so they can shim them etc. but undecided on Type A, B or R?? I have been told that it would be best to also do the matching springs for these cams. - Will mostly likely be running Garrett -9's or -7's with the hope of a fairly responsive street car with around 350kW - 380kW at the rears. Would -9's and -7's be capable with supporting mods of course of hitting the 350-380kW mark safely? Can anyone provide any feedback on the above? I have my mind pretty set now but want to make sure this isn't something that will need to be done again anytime soon. but I am still unsure of a couple of little things. Engine Management, Fuel Injectors etc. will all be finalised once the block is back together at this stage as my brain is overloaded and I want to focus on one thing at a time. Thanks guys, I will try and get some pics up when I figure out how to do it

Bump. Engine out next week and trying to finalise Oil fix. Thanks guys

Hey guys, Happy New Year to all!! Sorry to revive an old thread but the engine is coming out in the next week or two and I am starting to finalise my order list to make sure parts start arriving in due time. On the whole Oil issue I am still confused slightly by what is required in upgrade my 90 model GTR factory oil pump and associated parts. As mentioned above I was looking at getting (depending on Crank condition when removed) just a JUN Collar, N1 Oil Pump (p/no - 15010-24U01), Tomei Baffles and 1.5mm Oil Restrictor. I think this setup would work although I am 100% not sure if the JUN Collar will work with N1 Pump. Secondly I have looked into upgrading the std pump gears (Reimax) for a similar price but can't find out if I still require the Collar etc. and if it will actually give it the larger contact surface or if it is just stronger so less chance of cracking? Can anyone help with what would EXACTLY be required to fit the upgrade gears to my pump and will that be as "strong" as the N1 Setup listed above? I am also looking at getting a New std Harmonic Balancer to be balanced with the Crank etc. but an mot sure if the std balancer will work with the upgrade collar and pump?? Thanks guys, any assistance will be greatly appreciated.

Hey Tuff thanks for the offer. I have decided to go with either a complete set of Type A or Type R with adjustable gears as a package. I have found a set brand new for around $700 with shafts and gears. Cheers man I will do as I am interested in a price at least but I am still undecided what to do here. It has been recommended from quite a lot of people to go with something a little newer like Vipec, Haltech etc. but not sure.

Cheers man, what is the muffler/end pipe like?

East Sydney. Sorry for the delayed reply, I couldn't find this post for a while. Still after the following - ECU - PFC?? Looking more at Haltech or Vipec now. Dual Stage Boost Controller Kit _ Profec B etc.?? Tomei Sump Baffle Kit Adj. Cam Gears Oil Cooler Kit w. Plate and Thermo (need to fit Oil Pressure Sensor too) Oil Pressure Gauge (have been looking at Defi and Prosport) Hi-Flow min 3" Muffler to match rest of the system. p.s. can anyone confirm how to keep track of the posts I have made? I remember years ago there was a button to keep track of anything you had posted in but I'm too stupid to find it now. haha Thanks guys.

Thanks guys, I keep hearing about the ID1000cc Injectors, so looks like I will probably have to be added to the list of things for once the block is back in. I think a lot will depend on what we find when we open it all up. The std cams vs small upgrade cams is still something I'm not 100% on but I should have a better picture once they are out. I'm sure a lot of people here know just how quickly it can all change. As I said above until like a week or two ago the engine wasn't even coming out haha and now I'm talking about rebuilding the head, new internals etc. lol

btw would anyone here suggest that it is worth doing the cams and adj. gears at the same time as getting the head refreshed etc. I have heard this is the best way as they can fit the cams and shim the valves etc. at the same time?? does that sound right?