KrayzieGTR

Bump on this as I am looking for pretty much the same for the GTS-t

Hey Mik and everyone else, Sorry to revive an old thread and not too sure if you still visit the site but thought you all may be interested in where the car has ended up. The missus and i purchased it from a guy in Canberra in around July/August last year and have been slowly getting her back to strength and using it to learn and compete in drifting here in Sydney. I was just searching for some info in regards to flaring the guards a little more due to some new suspension and steering changes and found this page by accident. Reading through some of this thread i am very glad i brought this car now as it look as though, and is shown in the cars current drive line etc. that a good job was done in the first place. You would probably be a little disappointing with where the paint etc has ended up but it is still a very strong car taking everything we throw at it so far. Thanks for doing such a good job Mik, feel free to ask any questions if you have any.

Cheers thanks mate.. i would sure hope so with all the time and effort so far. Still plenty to do

Hey everyone, I know it has been a while now and not too sure how many people were actually following this thread in the first place but thought I would provide an update about this build and let you all know where we have ended up after all the research and feedback from you all. Since the last post things have come along way and have changed and adjusted the whole way. Good news is we are now not too far from having everything here and ready to go back together. As a few people stated previously in this thread, I have made sure as much as possible that it will be done right the first time. So after a lot of time and obviously money this is where we currently stand. ENGINE - CP Pistons (9:1), OEM Rods, OEM Crank, ACL Bearings (Main and Big End), APR Bolts and Studs, OEM Harmonic Balancer, N1 Oil Pump with Reimax Gears and Crank Collar, All Balanced, TOMEI Sump Baffles, Oil Gallery Restrictor, Checked and Cleared Oil Returns. HEAD - A Bunch of Porting, Polishing and matching, Type B Cams, Type A Springs, Full Refresh of Valves/Guides etc., E85 Cam Baffles and Adj. Cam Gears. MANIFOLDS, ACCESSORIES ETC - OEM Manifolds, Port Matched and Extrude Honed, Enlarged and polished ITB's (resealed and shaft re profiled), Nismo Gasket Kit (1.2mm Head Gasket), R34 Fuel Rail, Splitfire Coil Packs, Oil Cooler Kit, Haltech Plat Pro with 3 Bar MAP, Loom Tidy Up and Check, Ceramic Coat Exh. Manifolds, Exhaust Housing, Dumps and Front Pipe, All new OEM Water, Power Steering and A/C Hoses and a Hard Pipe Kit for Rubber Intake Hoses only. TURBOS - haven't been purchased yet but most likely a customised twin set up in the range of GTX or -5 UNDECIDED - Type and size of injectors (probably 1000cc Denso) and suspension mostly. Pretty much everything is ready to go except a little bit of ceramic coating and a few final bits and pieces. Hopefully it will all start to speed up a bit from here. Thanks again for all the help previously for anyone who contributed. Feel free to ask any questions if you have any and hopefully it won't be another 2 years for the next update haha

Hey guys, I am looking for the Greddy intake pipe set that replaces the factory rubber hoses. Not too fussed on external finish as they will be prepped and powder coated black. Id you have a old set lying around i would love to take them off your hands. Thanks guys

Cheers Ben, from what i can tell its just a coolant and vacuum pipe and was just going to blow it out thoroughly with comp air or somthing. Does anyone know what the valve/rattle is for?

Hey guys, sorry for another thread revival but i cant seem to find much info about the coolant/vacuum pipe where the coolant bleed screw is located. This was the best info i found so far so thought id ask ☺ I have my engine apart and have been cleaning, prepping spraying etc everything. A mate helped me sand blast alot of different pipes and brackets along the way and i believe there now might be a small amount of sand inside this tube. I just wanted to know how bad this could potentially be and what would be the best way to clear it all out? Any tips and info about the pipe would be very appreciated. Cheers

ENGINE IS OUT and everything has been stripped. FINALLY!! Hey all, just thought I would give a bit of an update on where I am at with everything. During the last week we have finally pulled the engine and have stripped it completely down to just block with in a few days and so far there is no big surprises or big news. The only signs of wear etc. are on the Main Bearings (2 of them worn on one side more than the other so other then a line bore and standard refreshing required only) so it doesn't look like there is a lot to be too concerned about. Decision has been made, with the help of the engine rebuilders, that we are going to do pretty much a full rebuild with hopefully reliability and useable street power the main focuses. So far the list for the block and internals are as follows - - One-Size over Forged JE or CP Pistons - 86.5mm - New Big End and Main Bearings (ACL or King) - Check Crank for straightness and just Linish if OK - Factory Rods with New ARP Rod Bolt - New Harmonic Balancer - Line Bore - Cylinder Hone etc. - Skim Head and Block - New 1.2mm Nismo Head Gasket - ARP Head Stud Kit - Full Head Refresh - Re-Seat Valves, Seals etc. - N1 Oil Pump with Crank Collar fix - Complete Bottom End Balance - All seals and Gaskets as well as New Belts, Factory Hoses etc. The things I still haven't decided and would love some feedback on is - - Porting of the Head while it is being overhauled. I have heard there isn't huge gains to be had and that it would cost around $700-$800 to do. I love the idea of having it done but unsure if worth it. - Cams - I will definitely be doing the cams with adjustable gears with the head so they can shim them etc. but undecided on Type A, B or R?? I have been told that it would be best to also do the matching springs for these cams. - Will mostly likely be running Garrett -9's or -7's with the hope of a fairly responsive street car with around 350kW - 380kW at the rears. Would -9's and -7's be capable with supporting mods of course of hitting the 350-380kW mark safely? Can anyone provide any feedback on the above? I have my mind pretty set now but want to make sure this isn't something that will need to be done again anytime soon. but I am still unsure of a couple of little things. Engine Management, Fuel Injectors etc. will all be finalised once the block is back together at this stage as my brain is overloaded and I want to focus on one thing at a time. Thanks guys, I will try and get some pics up when I figure out how to do it

Bump. Engine out next week and trying to finalise Oil fix. Thanks guys

Hey guys, Happy New Year to all!! Sorry to revive an old thread but the engine is coming out in the next week or two and I am starting to finalise my order list to make sure parts start arriving in due time. On the whole Oil issue I am still confused slightly by what is required in upgrade my 90 model GTR factory oil pump and associated parts. As mentioned above I was looking at getting (depending on Crank condition when removed) just a JUN Collar, N1 Oil Pump (p/no - 15010-24U01), Tomei Baffles and 1.5mm Oil Restrictor. I think this setup would work although I am 100% not sure if the JUN Collar will work with N1 Pump. Secondly I have looked into upgrading the std pump gears (Reimax) for a similar price but can't find out if I still require the Collar etc. and if it will actually give it the larger contact surface or if it is just stronger so less chance of cracking? Can anyone help with what would EXACTLY be required to fit the upgrade gears to my pump and will that be as "strong" as the N1 Setup listed above? I am also looking at getting a New std Harmonic Balancer to be balanced with the Crank etc. but an mot sure if the std balancer will work with the upgrade collar and pump?? Thanks guys, any assistance will be greatly appreciated.

Hey Tuff thanks for the offer. I have decided to go with either a complete set of Type A or Type R with adjustable gears as a package. I have found a set brand new for around $700 with shafts and gears. Cheers man I will do as I am interested in a price at least but I am still undecided what to do here. It has been recommended from quite a lot of people to go with something a little newer like Vipec, Haltech etc. but not sure.

Cheers man, what is the muffler/end pipe like?

East Sydney. Sorry for the delayed reply, I couldn't find this post for a while. Still after the following - ECU - PFC?? Looking more at Haltech or Vipec now. Dual Stage Boost Controller Kit _ Profec B etc.?? Tomei Sump Baffle Kit Adj. Cam Gears Oil Cooler Kit w. Plate and Thermo (need to fit Oil Pressure Sensor too) Oil Pressure Gauge (have been looking at Defi and Prosport) Hi-Flow min 3" Muffler to match rest of the system. p.s. can anyone confirm how to keep track of the posts I have made? I remember years ago there was a button to keep track of anything you had posted in but I'm too stupid to find it now. haha Thanks guys.

Thanks guys, I keep hearing about the ID1000cc Injectors, so looks like I will probably have to be added to the list of things for once the block is back in. I think a lot will depend on what we find when we open it all up. The std cams vs small upgrade cams is still something I'm not 100% on but I should have a better picture once they are out. I'm sure a lot of people here know just how quickly it can all change. As I said above until like a week or two ago the engine wasn't even coming out haha and now I'm talking about rebuilding the head, new internals etc. lol

btw would anyone here suggest that it is worth doing the cams and adj. gears at the same time as getting the head refreshed etc. I have heard this is the best way as they can fit the cams and shim the valves etc. at the same time?? does that sound right?

Cheers SirRB, that is pretty much where we are at for now although we will have a look at the internals too just to make sure nothing major there. Once the things are done that require the engine out and it been put back in I can take my tie with the rest of the build to make sure I do it right and don't shortcut anything. I'm still after some suggestions about the last few details if anyone can give any insight to my situation. -Cam durations and lift -injector sizes -Using ported factory exhaust manifolds -Workshops for head work, crank balancing and tuning which is all stuff i dont have any idea about. I appreciate all the feedback from everyone.

By the way... if any one has any new or used items from my list above they would like to get rid of be sure to let me know

Hey guys, Thanks for all the replies and insight. I have taken sometime to look a little further into everyone comments and spoke with the mechanic that will be helping me with the build. I think i have pretty much finalised what i want to do and the direction i am going to head in. We are going to slow the build down a little bit and throw a few extra $$$ to make sure i dont have to do it again. Please have a look at the list below if you have the time and let me know your thoughts and suggestions, i looking forward to getting some parts finally ordered and getting stuck into it. Turbo - GT2859R-9's - finally decided on these with either the Garret or maybe HKS actuators if i can get them (not sure PSi). Thanks to the feedback here and further reading it looks like they will best suit my situation, so thanks again. -Factory Cooler, Piping and BOVs etc. Oil - this is something i am still not 100% sure on with the different information but thinking if crank doesn't need replacing then just get the collar and either upgrade the factory pump with better gear (not sure if OK with old pump) or just replace it with a N1 Std Flow Pump. I am also fitting a 1.5mm Restrictor and Tomei Sump Baffle Plates. Head - Looking to find a shop to clean up and flow the head -New valve stem seals, guides, reseat etc. I am also now looking to get some very mild upgrade cams (maybe 250/260 area??) and adj cam gears. and check/replace springs if required. Fuel - As i said i already have a Bosch 040 in tank and Nismo adj pressure reg already fitted. Looking to upgrade the injectors but am still not 100% sure of size just yet. I initially like the Nismo 600cc's but not sure they will be enough. Block - We are going to pull the engine and see what we find to start with. I am looking to keep the standard crank, pistons and rods if it is tested OK but will get everything balanced with a new OEM Harmonic Balancer. If things are as good as the compression and leak down tests down recently seemed then hopefully the plan will be. -ACL bearings all round -New piston rings with a hone only (if piston and bores etc are good), -ARP Rod bolts -ARP Head Studs. -Full Nismo replacement gasket and seal kit -Pulley Kit (although not sure if really needed) -Belt Replacement (have no idea of brand) -Nismo engine and trans mounts ECU - Decided, after many strong recommendeds, to look into other options other than PFC, but not in a big rush as it is one of the last things i need to do. Nistune, Vipec, Haltech ??? Boost Control will be based on the ECU. Other - OEM Water Pump Replacement -Low temp Thermo -Full heater hose replacement OEM -Fit full turbo back exhaust system (3" from CAT back). Will probably fit new CAT and muffler, and recomendations -Already have a R33 box and Exedy Twin Plate I have tried to do as much as possible to make it a srong reliable car while maintaining a fair bit of Factory/OEM about it. Im sure pleanty will have opinions and i would like you to share it if possible. I also wouldn't mind some advice on - -Cam sizes -injector sizes -Using ported factory exhaust manifolds -Workshops for head work, crank balancing and tuning which is all stuff i dont have any idea about. Thanks guys, i would love your feedback.

Thanks for the info Ambi, but now you have got me looking into my decision a little bit more again. As most people looking at GT2860/59's, I have read a lot of information on both and from what I can tell both have their pros and cons. Firstly I don't think I am ever going to run with e85 as I will probably just keep it on 98 pump fuel, as I know it will be easier in the long run. Plus isn't there a bunch of fuel mods etc. that need to be carried out to run e85 as well? or am I wrong. Secondly I would love the smaller option for acceleration and more streetable power but I am worried that they are not up for it power wise. Not having used these turbo's before or personally not knowing anyone who has, I keep hearing mixed reviews some claiming the -9's don't take that much to max out and I don't want to be left wanting more after this build. When I spoke with CGC Turbo's (through work) I was told the -5's are a lot more popular and they are a great match for the RB26 but then others claim not so much.... arrrrgggggghhhh! I really don't know what to do. I am about to finalise a big order from Japan for a stack of parts and accessories and need to make my final decisions on as much as I can in the next day or two. So far I have cemented in - - Power FC Engine Management (I wouldn't mind something different but $2000 is just too expensive for what I need), if anything I am looking for a used Power FC (if worth it) - Boost Control - Profec B - Bigger Injectors - 700cc-800cc (not sure of brand yet as Nismo top out at 600cc.) - Oil Pump Upgrade - probably Nismo Unit with Collar and maybe stronger gears if required? (I read about this splined gear setup but don't know enough.) - Water Pump - OEM - Sump Baffle and 1.5mm Oil Restrictor - Adj. Cam Gears - Clean up port head, new valve guides and check springs - New Crank and Cam Bearings - Recondition Starter and Alternator - Replace all hoses, clamps and gaskets - Port Exhaust Manifold - New Engine Mounts - Upgraded Pulley Kit - New Belts - AND Turbo's of course once I figure out which ones. Down the line once money settles again and I have some time I will probably get some new Coil Packs and get stuck into the Suspension and Power Steering etc.

Hey mate, do you know if this will fit the R32 models?

Hey guys, again thank you for the feedback and information. Jiffo thank you very much for the PM I will reply to it a little later today. I have decided it will be engine out and bite the bullet on a lot of things I have wanted to do since the day I brought it. I am very close to finalising the specs on my rebuild and will be looking to get my orders in for everything in the next few days. One thing I am again very stuck on is Turbo's. I have been looking at the whole Garret GT2860R-5/GT2859R-9/GT2860R-7 dilemma and had more or less decided to go with the -5's. The question I had was has many people just had their standard R32 Turbo's upgrade with Steel Fin etc.? and if so how much approx. would I be looking at and approx. how much power would be achievable with this (providing for this case that all other supporting mods were taken care of)? The further I go the money is really starting to climb and I am looking at different ways to maybe save a few dollars. I have found a New set of GT2860R-5's for $1950 but its really pushing everything up. I also initially started out looking to just refresh it as standard as possible and feel like with the -5's I'm getting even further away from that goal, although they do seem like an awesome little set up. Thanks guys, I am very interested on the feedback about this. Cheers Kris.

Hey guys, I am chasing the following (second hand/new) parts for my rebuild and would be VERY interested if anyone was looking to sell any of these items. All for my 90' GTR R32 - - Used Power FC Unit with Hand Controller - Injectors - 800cc SARD?? Even consider Nismo 600cc?? - Tomei Camshafts - around 250/260 Pon or Procam? - Adjustable Cam Gears - Tomei?? - Oil Sump Baffle Kit - Tomei/Nismo?? - Oil Cooler Kit with Plate and Thermo Switch - 60mm Oil Pressure Gauge with Remote Sender (No Fluid in Cab) - Hi-Flowed CAT - Direct replacement unit. - Aftermarket Hi-Flow Muffler - preferably one that is not MASSIVE and looks more factory but still performs well?? I would appreciate any help or information anyone can provide. I am having to do a lot more than first though with my rebuild and am trying to find a few $$ savings on things that I am guessing won't really matter if they are used or not. Thanks everyone, Cheers Kristian.

Cheers mate, I appreciate the feedback. I am having the problem of starting off with a mild freshen up in mind and then wanting to do more and more the further I go. I have the standard problem of always wanting to do something else. Hi Jiffo, thank you for your advice it is also much appreciated. I agree with everything mentioned and hence why I am having a bit of a dilemma. I guess I need to clarify a bit for you, I wouldn't say the budget it THAT tight although that being said both my missus and I (which means basically the missus lol) are saving for important things in life right now so I have to be careful about spending all my current savings, which I could quite easily do I have considered just doing the first few things I started out to do, just put it all back together and drive until I have a little more budget and space etc. but due to the time it has taken to get to this point I am thinking that it may be worth continuing all the way to getting the engine out even if it sits on a stand for a while as I get bits and pieces fixed over time. I would love a complete parts list of all the factory hoses if anyone has them (i have found a few OEM hoses myself, although I would prefer they came in a complete ste like the Autobahn88 or Samo Kits) Over the last few days since getting to this point, I have been looking into some build threads etc. getting ideas of things that should be really looked at when it comes to pulling the engine etc. and with a rough costing list I can see it be viable but maybe just over a few months (although i haven't been able to factor in all the little things which add up). Although as Jiffo mentioned above I haven't dove to far into the gearbox, Transfer Case and Diffs yet which can obviously be a lot more money too. I am assuming that you wouldn't need to take the engine out to do these things down the line??? The things I have found over the last few days that I should really do if the engine comes out are basically - Oil Pump and Collar (maybe Nismo Hi Flow and ??? Collar) - Harmonic Balancer & Pulley Kit - Full Belt Replacement Kit - Sump Baffle (Tomei) - New Turbo/Upgrade Std (Only after around Nismo spec) - Clean up/Port Exhaust Manifold - Clean Up/Port Head - depending on pricing (haven't looked up much on this yet) - Injectors (600cc Nismo??) - Power FC with Boost Controller - Check Crank and Bearings (not sure if it will need balancing with New Harmonic Balancer) - Full Engine Gasket and Seal Replacement - Water Pump (probably just OEM) Not really looking to do pistons and ring etc. unless we get in there and find we have to so will have to play that one by ear. As mentioned previous end power is not the be all and end all although I would like around a safe 320-350kW at the wheels if possible. Thanks again for the feedback i hope to make my decision in the next few days on which way I am going to go forward from here. Keep the advice coming.

Bump... lol I know its a long post but I really could use some advice. Thanks everyone.

Hey Guys, - Sorry in advanced for the long post - I am a long time member and fan of this wonderful forum and am after some advice from the many knowledgeable people on here. I am not a regular poster myself, due to the fact that most of the things I know about my car has come from this forum and its members, but I am always on here learning and understanding more and more about my baby each and every time. I have owned my 1990 GTR R32 since 2005 and through many ups and downs (including no money and moving overseas for a year) this car has been with me, even with many friends and family urging me to sell it more times than I would like to remember over the years. I have now come to a point in my life where I can finally invest some precious time and of course money in getting it to a point I have always dreamt and hoped for. After over 2 years off the road I recently brought her to life again and have been in the process of refreshing as much of her as possible with the time, money and space I have. After the initial revival of replacing fuel, oil and coolant and getting it started etc. I have begun stripping out as much of the engine as possible with out removing the engine to check it all and refresh as many hoses, clamps, gaskets and spray paint/clean as much as I can get to. Due to a fairly limited budget, and not a huge amount of room to work in I decided at the start that the block, head and turbo's will have to wait till further down the line when a little more money and better option for a work space was available. Since getting into it, finding little problems and getting carried away, I have removed a lot more than I initially expected and this is now where my dilemma comes and why I am turning to everyone for their opinions and advice. Since getting into it I have removed the whole exhaust system up to the dump pipes (as rust came shooting out of the tailpipe when she was first started and run again), Removed all intake piping (including Intercooler, BOV's etc.), Radiator, Hoses & Thermo (to be replaced), All Engine Covers (Coil, Cams and Cam Gear for powder coating), all 4 Brake Callipers & Rotor (for Rebuild and Powder Coating/Painting etc.), CV Shaft (To be clean and re-booted) and will be changing all the Vacuum, Water/Heater Hose etc. I can get to. Now that I have got to this point and am now looking to remove the intake plenum, I am having a dilemma and really need some expert advice when it comes to GTR's and early series RB26 Engines. Have I gone so far now that it is worth just going the whole way and removing the engine? How much further work is involved to remove it from here? The plan was to initially get as much refreshed as possible with out removing the engine and then down the line addressing the weak turbo and oil pump issues along with slightly bigger Injectors, Cams, Cam Gears, Head Gasket, Belt Kit, Pulley if Required and replacing all the main seals etc. But now due to the fact I feel I am only a few steps short of being able to remove the engine, would it be worth putting everything back together only to have to remove it all again down the line and having needing to replace some of the same intake gaskets etc. again that I am going to replace this time around? Also, can anyone let me know if you need to remove the intake plenum to remove the engine? I am about to attempt to remove it with the engine still in but am a little worried as I know it is a PITA job and I have never attempted it before. So I guess what I am asking is what would everyone's recommendations be at this stage? Would you continue with the refresh only and just worry about the next stage when I get to it? or would you just take the extra time, money and hassle of removing the engine now seeing as a fair bit of the work is already been completed? I am so confused right now, I would love to just jump in and remove the engine but with no real previous experience and lack of work space I am worried it might end up being an very long drawn out and expensive way to go. One last thing as well, would anyone who has experience with the early model RB's have any recommendations on what else I might consider doing while everything is out (besides the engine)? I have tried to think of everything but it seems like every time I am in the garage I think of something else that needs to be done. Thanks in advanced for any help and advice you guys can offer. I really respect the opinions on this forum and am very interested in peoples thoughts on all of this. Cheers guys, Kristian.