destrukshn

I actually wasnt waiting forever to get it moving. Depends how you're driving e.g. if i was in 2nd gear going around a roundabout it will be laggy. But if i was in first gear at the lights, actually didnt feel laggy at all better yet it was quite similar to the 2530s. This is a 6speed R34 GTR anyway. No changing any diff ratios. Probably couldve outdragged N1GTR or Piggaz on a 2.6l Lets see if i hit full boost before 5000rpm. My 2.6l would hit full boost by 5000-5500rpm. Not sure what is up with other builds on their respective RB30s. Dyno sheet below: Not power was @ all fours and not RWD as theirs. Either way someone can run my graph of RB30 HKS GT-RS compared to theirs and compare apples to apples. It is hard to compare when the run below was done on a 2.6l bottom and run on different dynos.

Honestly, it really depends on the person, what they really want for the car. A lot of people on this forum are misguided to those who talk up the -5s. If you driven a -5/HKS 2530. Yes it is responsive but every advantage will have some kind of disadvantage. My opinion of the -5s/2530 is that it lacks top-end, by about 6000rpm it is about at its limits. This is coming from someone who had a pair of HKS 2530s. With a set of HKS GT-RS even at 9000rpm on my car they still want to keep going. Disadvantage is yes it is laggier than a set of 2530s. Circuit wise 2530s, Drag wise GT-RS. Mix and match an RB30 with a pair of HKS GT-RS, i could improve the responsiveness of the car and probably still make more power than N1GTR and Piggaz. Actually i made 441AWKW on a 2.6l bottom @ 24psi none of this RWKW rubbish. The outright power was more than they made on their respective RB28/30s. Whether it was more drivable on the road - probably not. With my RB30 to be completed in 3weeks, tuning will be done on both 98/E85 @ 30psi. We will see the response/power output compared to the -5's. So really it is up to you, my opinion is -5s aren't all they are said to be. Depends on your engine package and since you're going RB30, it won't be as laggy as those who are on 2.6l and cry about them....

I'll be going rb30 soon. I'm running hks gt-rs 441AWKW @ 24psi on a rb26 full boost by 5000rpm on e85 Should be much more responsive with the rb30 with full boost around 4000rpm. I have no comp surge and will be running 28-30psi. We will see what result will be, let see if I can make 470awkw with a stock low mount look

I would assume that you would usually compressor surge if the turbo is too big for the motor.

I've got a set of hks gt-rs on my 2.6l. 441awkw @ 24psi no shuffle at all. Have had hks 2530s and no shuffle either all of this with no modification to twin turbo pipe or any other..

If you look below. The extra piece welded on is going to be the new place of the oil pickup. We are going to drill in to the oil galleries and will be using the same oil pick up place as the RB26. It is pretty much replicating the RB26 block and will operate like a RB26 block. The current RB30 oil-pickup will be blocked off. Hope this makes sense and as I said I will provide pictures of the assembled to show what has been done.

Of course when assembling the block, you would always have to check and see if the block is twisted or sprung on the main bearings. You would make sure that all clearance on the main is right and then go ahead. If its sprung then you would line bore. Every professional engine builder knows that so you guys don't need to worry about if the block is warped or not as we cross that path it will definitely be sorted. But appreciate the comments, warnings and what to look out for, just be aware we already got those covered. All my machining is done free, all my mechanicals is done free so it is not about cost and it is not a dodgy build. The rebuilder just doesn't like the use of a plate and believes that this technique is better and as an engine builder he doesn't want to just buy someone elses product (such as a plate) and assemble even if it may be easier. He has his reasons for not adding 10mm extra for the adaptor plate too. lol. Regardless, when i started the thread i just want to see if anyone has taken this approach. I was more worried if the strength of the weld would it hold say vibrations from the differential, engine movement etc. Since then, we have drilled the holes and the welds are damn tough, it retains about 12 original holes from and including oil pump so there won't be much pressure on those welded areas anyway and that is why the engine builder builder believes it will work.

Heating was only done on the top of the block, the whole block wasnt heated just to weld the sump extension pieces on and so there is no twist in the tunnel. It is definitely aligned. Work is done by professionals and there is no need to worry about it being out of alignment, but thanks for the input The holes are drilled now, will update with pictures once short motor has been assembled!

It does look like an RB26 indeed, just letting everyone know the welds are so hard that our drill is having problems drilling the holes and it is getting done by someone external and not in-house! There is no reason to align bore done on the mains. There is nothing wrong with the mains and so there is no need to realign them. It is factory aligned.

Pictures of the holes to suit the RB26 AWD sump attached below: Project RB26/30 getting closer to finishing!

Here is a clearer picture anyway! Will update thread once all the new holes have been tapped.

Not too sure of the exact material, but i am guessing it was some sort of steel. Well it has been machined and hasnt cracked yet so it looks a bit promising. As it retains a few original holes on the RB30 from the RB26 Sump, will tap out using larger studs to ensure it doesn't move. Well the reason for not using it was probably due to extra 10mm which person working on it didnt want for sump adaptor. Possible oil peaks too.. Well cutting was done in house, welding was done free & machining was done free. We'll see if it works otherwise if it cracks, can always take motor out and fix it! Haha yeah guess we'll just have to wait and see once it is done and if it holds up! Thanks for the input!

No one else has experience with this?

Well it was welded both on top and the bottom for strength. Yeah i was told that youre trying weld on to cast it is hard but apparently with the right welding tools you should be able to do it. We'll see if it is strong enough! Oilpickup? It will use the same spot as the RB26 dipstick.

It is not a problem of fitting the sump, it will fit the sump as it was already put on and those pieces were cut to fit the RB26 sump. We just need to tap the holes. It's about the strength, will it crack? Just curious to see if anyone else has attempted this modification to avoid a sump adaptor?

Hi All, Just hoping for some input. We are currently doing a RB26/30 conversion for my BNR34 and we didn't want to run a sump adaptor so an extra piece was welded on and machined flat. Has anyone done this conversion or know anyone who has? Looking for some input, will it work? Or will I run in to more problems? Cheers! Pictures below: Before welded: After welded: Both Sides welded: Machined:

How come you didn't bigger brakes? 700kw requires extra stoppage..

Get the Nismo one and it will look nice and clean

And what about those that dont recommend him coming out of his workshop? I had two PMs about it? 'everyone' ... lol

Biased much? Thats what i mean about being ignorant is because you are like the rest of the sheep on here and i can tell from your response. I am just trying to say that there are other tuners out there. E.g. JEM, Powertune, Unique Automotive. Not necessarily everyone on SAU has to go Unigroup though a lot of people on this forum goes to him because of people like you and N1GTR whom is always putting forward recommendations. Although those that do are happy with their work and i presume you are one of those guys who are? In saying that, I am just saying i feel he tunes perhaps a little safe and thats why the power readings is a bit low for the mods on the cars he tunes. Thats all, nothing about him being a crap tuner or nothing. You put forward your recommendation and opinion and i gave mine.

lol.. if you have a standard motor and you want to make 380-390kw i dont think especially with gt-ss sized turbos. i just think its a little too ambitious but thats just my opinion and from experience. I'd say 350-360max on eflex with a set of cams? The problem i had was i couldnt get power above 6000rpm, put a set of cams in on a STANDARD motor and it brought the mid-top end straight up. You can feel the difference for the midrange-topend power. With the 2wd readings, it should be higher than in 4wd. His readings are definitely lower, but as i said, who knows, everyone modifies their head different and it could just be that or as i said it could be his tuning too safely. lol.. did i say feed customers bullshit dyno graphs? all i said that he could be tuning his cars too safely? Get a figure from you tuner and take it to unigroup to get a real read out? lol seriously dont be so ignorant. Each to their own then, but its just my opinion on what i've seen from other peoples dyno graphs tuned by unigroup

"peak power right now is at 6300... car just starts struggling to breath and loses power" Sounds like an exact thing i had.. Drop a set of Tomei TypeB 9.15mm in. Ignore what everyone says about running standard cams and try again and you won't live to regret. Everyone is always talking highly of Unigroup but i find the car's he tunes runs quite low power and they are only in RWD/2WD? Too safe of a tune perhaps? Who knows...

what actuators do you have on the -9s?

BUMP!!

Come on someone, snap them up already!