Mr. Keets

Hey its on fire...oh no its not Seriously James it's ass and no just subjectively, technically as well. There is no cohesion at all, I cant figure out what the idea is...probably none. Roll cage and a big screen TV...WTF! 5inch taco yes taco mmmm mexican food, in the passenger footwell, yellow and black leather with matching yellow dash surrond with a 300k speedo . Man this thing is all over the place then top it of with the tail light swap and, what are they, GT-C Volks and the ghey flames. Man needed someone to tell him when he started to STOP! and have a think or buy a copy of option or hyper rev or HPI and "get on the trolley". In the end it is his money and it is his expression so meh, just hope it doesnt park in my street

Man I would laugh my ass off I one of those knucklehead blew a sandal Would be cool if they got some titanium soles for night fun...and then fell off

Well ya couldnt really expect anything could you...its not a sport its a privately owned company

or Japan...

I have one in my 32R. Doesnt feel as progressive to engage as other clutches so it would take a bit of getting used too. 400+RWHP-7K launches...no problems. Personnaly I'm going to try a Nismo Coppermix Twin next time or a Jim Berry

Guilty...Good plan ma'am

Depends on how much HP you want to run and what sort of response you want. I've got the 2860-5 and they come on at around 4K and make 430RWHP without cams. You sacrifice a little response but I think they're worth it. PNBlight makes about 520RWHP on his 33R, but I would'nt expect to get alot more. From memory Garrett advertise them as a "replacement upgrade "for the 34 GT-R turbos (-7). N1 and 2860R-5 really are quite different turbos and therefore not really comparable. You'd be better off comparing HKS2530, 2860R-5 and Trust T517. There was a good thread that contained a side by side comparison just recently... the HKS 2530 and the Trust T517 have more legs and produce more HP at higher rpm respectively. That would make the 2860r-5 a good comprimise for price and reposnse.

I'm pretty sure BB runs R tune Ohlins which are nice ("fancy pants mono-tube dampers with remote canisters and seperate bump and rebound adjustment "). But BB does alot more track work than mine whereas my R is primarily a street car. I would probably go to 6kg/mm fronts as a max on roads around Perth. For other places it might be different but changes in surface heights and quality on our roads would make driving really uncomfortable... not to mention pot holes and traffic calming devices. Also Japanese roads are alledgedly alot smoother so the effect of stiffer springs is less pronounced and therefore acceptable. The Japanese, from what I've read, tend to control body roll more often with stiffer springs rather than stabilser/sway bars like Austarlians do. Horses for courses

Clay bars are excellent, but a mild swirl remover would probably be better to try on water marks. An electric buff does take the elbow work out of it. Bosch make and excellent Random Orbit Sander (RO) that is good for those mere mortals amongst us. I would stay away froma non orbital buff (9 inch grinder type) as they can rip up paint easily and dont have speed adjustment. RO are very user friendly but I still use arm power for the wax

This is to golf what maccers is to fine dining...

10/8 would be hard work, even 8 and 6 ...but thats for sliding so its a different trip. I agree with Rellik, 5 and 4 Kg/mm springs are the go will still give you a firm ride, good for the odd track day but youd still be able to drive it on the street without pain. In the end you need to be honest and really look at what your going to do with the car. I bought the GB stuff from SK with some harder srpings and adjustable rear arms and it transformed my R.

zackly. and yes the Police act badly sometimes...just like import owners

Cinderella boy, 1st time at Augusta, tears in his eyes I guess as he lines up this last shot....sure why not

It all depends on what you buy, your not buying a barina here. These cars are legenday and every person that has ever owned one has hit the limiter and experience a bit of understeer, thats why we buy them...to drive them. I'm budgeting for a rebuild but only because i'm after more power. I'd shop well and spend the cash on the right mods and be O.K. with the fact that eventually it will need a rebuild. I should probably say that my R isnt a daily driver...I only drive it for fun and fun aint cheap.

I was just thinking about walking towards my R and a rod jumping throught the block by itself. Nothing ever randomly blows up...well maybe if it was build in Iraq it might. Seriously. Yes there are issues with verification of mileage on these vehicles. Especially as they get older and the market chases lower and lower K vehicles. I purchased mine locally and allowed me to do my own inspection, eveything on my car is consistant with the milage so I'm happy. Best check out the importing sub-forum and ask questions. My 32R has 2860-5s and makes that sort of hp...it smotes the unbelievers with ease , I've put 7K on mine since putting them on and its still got excellent oil pressure. The RB26 is a robust mill and provided it is well maintained, supported correctly with right mods, and hugged occasionaly it will last you a long time....If you want to run number its going to cost you one way or the other.

Swissol has a good rep as a high end brand but I find some of it a bit over priced. $50 for 250ml of car bath is Oprah money or is that Zymol money. The Samuari wax sounds interesting probably similar to the Zymol Japon but a bit cheaper.

Sump baffles...stop all the oil flopping around the sump and keeps it around the pickup so you dont get oil starvation, If the engines out its a good mod for peace of mind. Espeically if you want to go around corners. The N1 engines that JustJap sell would be more than capable of handling the potential of the 2530 or some 2860-5's. It doesnt sound like you want to break any records so that might be a way to go. No muss no fuss, but i'm sure you can get more for less if you dont mind organising the job and doing some research. Your budget doesnt mention block or crank prep, fuel pump, oil pump, injectors, tuning and your going to want cams. Dont rush into it. Good luck

Absolutely, They have a duty of care that requires their action off duty. What they cant do is make an accurate determination regarding the absolute speed of a vehicle. An officer can say that you were driving recklesly but not that you were doing 101 in an 80. Well i mean an officer could say it but any competent representation would make short work of that in a court room "Special Bus" I wont attempt to speak for the Adminsitrators but personaly shouldnt we be trying to put a law abiding face to our scene. Surely the better the PR between import owners and the Plods the less harrasment there will be and therefore the Police can spend more of their time chasing junkie thieves and kiddie fiddlers...were's the love Diamondjo???weres the love?

Sure about that Lets get past the my dads bigger than your dad crap and talk..., I have arguably the best tuner in Perth tune my car and his words to me were and i'm paraphrasing here "It will make 450 at the wheels at 1.4 bar but i wont be able to tell you for how long". And that's the point, I bet I can make 500 at the wheels...but for how long. Hooray for people experimenting cause thats how we move forward; but mate its been done and done and done, there is nothing to prove. Except to your mates. You will need a rebuild because nothing last forever and certainly not a a 17 year old RB I have an 89R that makes 430RWHP on the original build...I blew one of my turbos at 10K kilometers ago at 13 psi/336 RWHP (from memory). My engine is still making good HP and shows no signs of expiring due the ingestion of a ceramic wheel, But there is a body of evidence to say that... (A) Ceramic wheels dont last long at +13psi in a car driven in a "spirited fashion" and (B) Engines expire when that happens. Just because you dont believe it doesnt make it go away. Get past the ceramnic dust issue on concentrate on the very probably having to fix a broken car issue As for your original request for help. Cam gears... to give you more tuning options Dumps...proven HP on investment. injectors...maxing them out soon Fuel pump..its old now Your a smart guy by the sounds of it I dont know why you've asked for peoples advice but they've given it to you. You've however seem to have chosen to ignore it. Good luck with that, really.

Black sounds like the biz...but own one and cleaning the bloody thing gets old quick.

will do, good luck...i'm choke'n on my own rage here

Go a FG hood with an intake for the pods...if legal. Black hood on a white car...if it has the right wheels and a few other styling cues, will look hard core JDM time attack...check your hyper rev If its lighter you can go the "I'm saving weight" route but if its a painted aluminium hood then its a bit try hard IMHO. Go for it HKS Kansai Customer car A bit more hard core...mmm CF doors

Search button or...or click here! Including freight the Baron is pretty close

For me its also about turn over of supply Of peak98?

zackly No such thing...e-mail the Mcquarie dictionary and get the definition changed to what it is. The Macquarie is the resource used by all Australian media outlets to define. If we change the definition these "journalists" will stop trying to tie a stupidity to drag racing and, eventually, imports. Definition A race conducted on a 400m track, measured in both speed and time. Sanctioned by motorsport governing bodies, legal activity. Not A clusterfu(k conducted over no specific distance, the winner is determined by the ego of the knuckle head driving the vehicle and is too often conducted infront of citizens, resulting in damage to vehicle and/or knuckleheads. Illegal activity