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Dan_J

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Everything posted by Dan_J

  1. is there much of an issue with little caliper to rim clearance yet no rubbing?
  2. may as well put in alloy subframe bushes, cant really tell the difference in comfort
  3. next time its hot and wont start unplug the ecu coolant sensor which is the 2 pin sensor bolted onto the front of the intake manifold if rb stagea. if it starts u found the problem so install a new one
  4. your rwc guy is wrong as its that way they came. theres a mod to make them both say on though
  5. considering how cheap gk tech front RCA's are theres no point in not trying them out you wheel track also plays a part so make sure front and rear is equal or front has more track then rear try stock gtr front sway bar and i've also noticed once changing my worn rear sway bar bushes this made the car more oversteery edit: make sure current castor settings are equal ( loose bolts, bent parts, bent car) as if not this also deals out understeer
  6. testing the rsm on track i got 4.7 sec for 0-100km/h.... still need a tune
  7. could just notch subframe and make up new mounts out of RHS or flat bar, seeing that u have a cobra would be a track car or on club reg or you could make the mount adjustable with an eccentric bolt and filing out the mount hole
  8. ceffy doesnt have zorst mount on the end of the cradle so best to make one up before u install
  9. square hollow section/ metal post http://www.moorabbinsteel.com/shs.php with a grinder or drop saw cut a slit it in it like the factory jack and place that on the sil panel jacking point to spread the load better for the hoist
  10. if u want to replicate the stock scissor jack just get some 3/4 ,mm SHS/RHS and slot it in 1/2 -1/3
  11. im having similar problems atm so i'm just gonna place mark my post here until i have time to post up in full is that rad cap ment to be 100% percent sealed or can it have a few drops come out while its warming up with the overflow hose pulled off ?
  12. also double check that no vacuum hoses have a leak, i had a leak at a vacuum hose causing my 15psi turbo to only make 10psi leaking 5psi
  13. do you find that you need to top up coolant every now and then ? might be a pin hole on heater hose and it will only piss out when the car is hot/up to temp
  14. could be boost leak, cooler piping only just popped off? does it stall easy ?
  15. if you go into a shop that mainly does o-rings and seals they should be able to find you a large o ring to suit, ask your local enzed/pritek / hose shop
  16. is it still boosting? my stock turbo started making noises before it blew
  17. its said in the parts thread its the same as the 90's blue bird
  18. ^when sucking in air on a cold morning you will have more power/response feeling compared to a hot day cold air is denser where as hot air is expanded so less is consumed
  19. needs to be engineered or somehow source a r32 rb25.... you can remove vct and run rb20 cam gear cover...
  20. so i've been told, tail shaft/diff places can do new universal joints to suit, call around for a quote
  21. drifting with a rb20, 30 row oil cooler and a 7" thermo fan bolted on i start a cool down lap at 100-105c
  22. only reason to get one is on a daily where u have stop and start and u dont have time to warm it up. if its a track car you can just leave it idling until its up to temp for thrashing then again i have a 30 row cooler with no thermo on the daily although i dont give it much over 3k until water temps are up
  23. this applies to manifold pipe diameter, bigger pipe = more lag but some top end power, where as smaller pipe is more response but top end power is reduced so stock manifold is more responsive due to smaller diameter pipe you might have a boost leak or if not your running a r33 turbo/actuator for that 6psi
  24. alloy absorbs the heat from the abrasive cutting disk and might deform, i havent tired cutting alloy tube with my drop saw yet so give it a go with a cheap drop saw and see how it goes
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