Dan_J

and jump all around

those resistor things are stupid, usually the ecu chip you get off ebay stating more power and fuel eco.if the ecu thinks ur engine is cold it will rich up the mixtures but also retard timing

put a mini breather/air filter on the catch can then just connect the breather lines off the rocker covers into the catch can, no intake needed if you have a mini breather on the catch can

can anyone that actually knows answer this, if breathers are restricted will this rise oil temps ? also is it ok to weld a barb on the intake side of the sump at any height/location, any reason why not the exhaust side of the sump ?

nice good to see that sorted if this is getting tuned at trents pm me what time your coming down and i might come for a sticky beck/ and to see how long the waiting list is.....

it just means you would have less response and some more top end power then smaller dia tube

^ good idea i really need to budget for long nose vise grips......

could just put heater to cold,disconnect thermo fan switch/fuse and rev it abit for awhile at home

will unplug it and see what happens on the ceffy after u jump start it remove jumpers from hillux.if alt is working it should be at 13.+ volts 13.6/13.9 etc using same battery that u put the wrong terminals on? could have blown one of the cells inside, i have had a case where a bat was showing 12v+ and not starting only to find battery was gone, fixed with a new bat

there is a. a neutral switch( stops u starting in drive on auto cars) b, a reverse switch on the gearbox unplug whats plugged in now and swap it around

try fabulous fabrications

1. double check all your heater hoses that come off the block and off the thermostat housing, very common to have a pin hole and it only pisses out when hot and sucks air in making the car run hotter 2. hose rad out with water to confirm its not restricted from a blockage 3.remove and check thermostat that it opens in boiling water 4.check that water pump rotors ( behind the thermostat) move when you spin it by hand with the fan belt off 5.might as well flush rad due to age 6. bleed coolant repetitively for thermo fans the best type is the 'S' bladed fans as they pick up the air in a proper whirl wind where as the straight ones just are crap

where is this said black relay located?

i cant say i know much but as far as going thicker grade with no oil control mods it might leave you with more oil in the head not draining back to bottom end due to thickness others may have actual answers to this.

i use 10/40 tens racing with no oil control mods, car is regular daily and gets limiter bashing on the track days picked up 4 bottles at repco for 55 try 10/40, then try 0-5w-50 on your next oil changed after that and note how much oil has been consumed went from castrol to everyday penrite with the same grade on sisters daily and has fixed the power band issues it had

check for burnt out ground points as well

scratch that, its $55 at repco i might stock up on some bottles http://catalogues.repco.com.au/catalogue/repco-catalogue-d-i-y-deals/4vq57b5yp.html?pid=promotedCatalogue

i bought some at supercheap last time.... i really want to find a drum of it or a place that can fill a supplied drum/container, any clues?

try roys windscreens, call for a quote

bump

down

at least get a real water temp and oil temp gauge if drifting an oil cooler is almost a must

stao can machine the factory compressor cover to bolt onto the ss1 and weld up the rear housing adapter to look stock

make sure car is warm and add abit more oil then you normally would, 500ml or so for that extra protection in the bottom end

i remember when one of trent's customers broke a speedo drive mid tune, had to stop tunning change the speedo cable to start tuning on a rb20