am using it as a intake temp display as it goes down to 0 deg c, but yes it works good, with adjustable temp trigger also
theres also another one that the seller has, it will display and runs two triggers, say water and oil etc.
i might actually put some pen to paper this election, instead of folding up a bit of blank ballet paper
so i shall be voting for the AMEP in victoria hopefully
serious wtf is this thread....
buy this and win at life
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOP-GAUGE-Universal-Itouch-Fan-Super-Controller-Water-Oil-Temp-Voltage-Gauge-/320931283558?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ab8fec266
when do you hit full boost?
flip your FMIC, run it near the rad for shorter piping and make up new piping like the 'plazmaman' (or what ever its called lol )piping kit its just a 180 deg mandrel bend cut off to suit and a 45deg or so - 400/500 rpms response
get adjustable cam gears advance intake and retard exhaust -400-500 rpms response
or get a hyper gear ss1
or do a rb20de+t
you can get thermo fan controllers off ebay etc that come with a relay and display and adjustable on fan temp settings.
i also think with a tune u can get the aircon thermo fan plug to run thermos as the trigger wire to the relay
good progress on this am liking it
with the eccentric bolts did u just drill and tap a thread into the washer?
was wonder how to make up my on eccentric bolts without getting the bolt and washer milled
i've installed inlet n exhaust ebay cam gears, adjusted both for more response so it must be some what useful, dont see the point in buying jap gears for 400 bux though
you have some options;
1. fiberglass it ( did this for one of the corner lights on the cefiro as it had no tab at all, lasted me quite awhile still to this day )
2. plastic weld aka a soldering iron and some scrap plastic, random air box lid etc
3. metal tab and superglue..... not too reassuring though
so true!
i ment short nose r200 r33 diff, the back lash shims are just behind the crown wheel and you unbolt the center into two bits and install the shims with in, so safe bet is its completely different diff from what your describing
doing it your self = knowing exactly whats been done to it
i'm not too sure how these diff's work although be sure to take the back lash into account, so once you shim it up test the backlash and see if it needs adjusting.
after shimming my r200 into a locker the backlash is crap and low rpms are annoying, i just cant be stuffed changing the backlash shims just yet lol
get some hi res pics of that LHS front rail, cant tell much from that picture
if get a full wheel alignment with print out you can usually tell how bad that bend is in how different the castor is on each side,although adjustable castor rods would fix these handling issues