Dan_J

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/325614-parts-thread/?p=6039430 for rear strut u just need to re-drill the holes if using s13

if you follow the re-pin guide on nissansilvia.com you can get it to work. mine is currently stuck on demister, got another unit to test n see if its the unit or the wiring although havent bothered to put it in as its not that much worse off. the guide for ceffys that was posted on here has the same pin out as the one for s13's with the exception of two wires which is the exact opposite of the ceffy pin out but still works either way which i have tested

enzed has black oil hoses in multiple sizes

seems these bosch coils out power the aem / msd blaster ss by 5,000 volts http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Bosch-Mec-718-716-II-E-Coil-45-000-Volt-ignition-coil-/261083132872?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc9c473c8

if you use a press you need to use the right type of thick pipe/ metal to support the front lca bush so you dont bend the arm in, when you do try to press it out

are you sure its isn't just a loose r200 (lsd) and not a r180 ( open wheeler). with my old lsd you could turn the direction of the shafts apart by hand. skyline and silvia diffs will fit pending abs, backing cover swaps and front diff mount bushes for the s14/r33 and up models

bump offers.....

honestly it seems to be more of a 'lucky dip' as such, although they wouldn't go to much effort just to pull over camry drivers

sorry..... need to bin my straight pipes for a muffler

depending on your tyre size and how grippy your front is. if your front is a bit understeery then i wouldn't recommend 0 camber but -3 deg of rear camber is no real use for grip am currently running this for my slip set up with 15's on the ceffy -3 front camber 8+ castor rear 0 camber 0 toe havent tested toe on cornering but car is more grippy with 0 toe on take off

try -3deg front camber would benefit from adjustable castor rod with rose joints at 7 deg 0 rear camber gtr or thicker rear swaybar generally you want to remove any slop( rubber bushes) in the alignment settings front toe seems to be a drivers preference, i've always found too much either way and the car will be understeery.

think thats where the auto foot (handbrake) 'e-brake' cable slots through

i ALWAYS get it mixed up but, 'yo peeps know what i'm on about'

^its the valve that's bolted onto the intake plenum in that picture the intake pipe is still connected. i mean block the line on the pvc valve and the one on the turbo. then put a lil air breather on the catch can and connect up the rocker breather line to the catch can but wont work with out this ^^^

if its a track only car and defects ain't a problem, just block intake pipe and pvc valve then run a line from the rocker covers to catch can and put a mini breather on the can..... set up wont work with out a breather. also if you have an air leak on the intake pipe you can lean out and kill the engine as afm cant read the extra air

if you honestly want a cheap band-aid fix for only a few months, try ebay rotors.... mine havent fallen apart yet

when you put 3+mm of total shim in there you need to add a thicker backlash shim/washer, mine has a bit of backlash play at low speeds as i still havent sorted that out. although mine is pretty much a shimmed locker so by fair the most cheap and reliable set up over a grenade of a weldy

looking at your build its a track only car......make em out of RHS/SHS a bit of 40x40 fits in the chassis rail to bolt on for the rear just need to get a shorter bolt for the fuel tank straps

looks like a fun build -s13 rail only 3 holes mount up, so mod one corner or get a r32/r33 rail -thats a s13/r32 rear cradle which will obviously fit( the a31/c33 doesnt have an exhaust mount at the rear of it ), seems like you need a hicas lock bar or toe arms as i cant tell if its non hicas) - also need a r200 s13/r32 4 bolt diff backing pics of tube rear end? figure your on SD ?

my last polyurethane castor rod bushes split, barely lasted a year. if you want legal adjustable suspension on the cheap you can get the eccentric bushes that you press into arms/ rear hub uprights where the center is offset of alloy and the surrounding is polyurethane so you just adjust the center with a pair of pliers or such. or if you want it to handle even better get adjustable rose jointed arms all round and just swap it out like i do myself if you need a rwc for some reason GKtech + 1

looking at the struts and in engine bay pic it must be a 4wd model, does it have a round notch/ semi circle at the front lower chassis rails? looking good tho.... needs more skids

it would be nice if stao could update the HG website with the wheel sizings for the ss range of present and old models. just helps when you compare them to other turbo's for size and power out put once again nice work with the new results above ^

they are, although s15's are ment to be all non hi-cas

yes non hicas frames came from nissan and the a31/r32/s13 frames are all the same except for an extra exhaust mount on the s13. gtr cradles are ment to have some extra bracing but nothing special as that can be welded to the others. i'm just going to make up a mount out of plate and weld it in for the hicas r33 cradle i have for my non hicas ceffy. edit: in fact s15 cradles are said to be the same as the r33 but the s15 were all non hicas

no you dont need r33 axles, i'm running gtst r33 axles in my daily cefiro with the s13/r32/a31 type subframe in there so they should contract and expand to suit, which is just what they do if you have a spare set laying around to look at. r32 LCA's are slightly shorter and the bushes are slightly thinner then r33 so that might be why its suggested also the camber arms line up the same they just might be slightly longer as i have a few spare sets laying around that i compared. the r32 tie rod could be shorter and the hicas may not mount up to the same hole so i'm unsure those issuses