Dan_J

i've got a r31 rb30 tridon sensor in my rb20, pretty much all the same thing long as its connected up the right way

r32 suspension will work but will need to slip in a lil washer for the lower control arms as r33 bushes are slightly wider - unsure about the hi-cas interchangeability though

up

the rear end will grip better, while cornering etc and in a straight line. one difference is the way the lower control arm mounts are angled... with the r32 subframe the control arms are on a angle( one control mount is higher then the other) while the r33 is almost straight gk tech have r32/13 to s14/r33 conversion alloy subframe raisers in stock

^ cheers for the heads up and is on special at $60 too http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Penrite-10-Tenths-Racing-10-Engine-Oil-10W-40-5-Litre.aspx?pid=339062&menuFrom=60103

ok so i've gathered that the HPR 5-40 is basically motul 4100 or lesser. now 'what are peoples thoughts/ experience with penrite Enviro 5-40 full syn for limiter bashing and abuse compared to the motul'? its $20 cheaper then the motul 8100 and as i grab 2 bottles for my oil change that makes it a $40 saving. http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Penrite-Enviro-Engine-Oil-5W-40-5-Litre.aspx?pid=324403

well the heater is actually beneficial for the engines cooling, if your water is over heating you can turn on the heater to hottest and the core under the dash works as a 2nd heat sink. same for warming up a cold engine, put heater on coldest so the valve is closed that comes from the heater hose at the block

^ if its a rb with no oil flow/drain mods you should be using something thinner as thicker oil is harder to drain back to block /main bearings where most rb's fail. i fill my rb20 up to 6 liters for that extra protection that most do if they dont have oil control mods for track work. been using motul 8100 5-40 for awhile now with no oil control mods although cant be arsed paying 80 bux a bottle anymore . what are peoples thoughts/ experience with penrite HPR 5 5-40 full syn for limiter bashing and abuse compared to the motul?

no, a31 c33 is ment to sit lower

if not check behind the cluster, the plastic input on mine broke twice

nice c33 figure the only reason the gtr injectors are maxing out is because your running e85, usually with gtr injectors you would see 230+ on 98 before they max out. also make sure you've done the fuel pump direct rewire mod for more voltage

dont mind me, saw gts as gtr for some reason

you sure its 28, thought gtr rear was 25/26

pat, did you also advance intake or just retard exhaust ?

figure i'll post in here as there's not much of this going on. i've bought a gauge that comes with a temp probe, so i've removed probe and connected the gauge wires up to a sensor ( 2 pin ecu coolant type). now said gauge over reads by about 100 deg c, therefor i've added a resistor/s in series on the senor wire to bring the gauge readings down with what it should be. my problem is that the temps will get stuck and not go lower once the temps change from said sensor any help, electronics ain't my strong point

the only bad things about any intercooler is pressure drop due to core design/ size and extra lag from large piping. edit: although a well made large intercooler can be better then a shitty made smaller one so just test it out. you can measure pressure drop by hooking up the boost gauge from the piping near/ or on the turbo

yeah i know it sucks i usually just heel toe at the lights

i've recently installed cam gears, advanced intake and retarded exhaust after i found the best settings for response so now turbo hits full boost 500rpms sooner. that said car barely holds idle and it feels like its leaning out as i'm getting more air sooner so i'd say a tune is needed

yeah just 20 from jolly's u pull info below on how to install as it hugs onto the cluster http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/325614-parts-thread/page-3#entry6474643

thats a fair call dont want it to lean out on the track. for the speedo cable i'm using a vl rb30 cable for 20 bux at the wreckers, broke my other 2 r32 cables on skids so the vl one is a bit more sturdy and is lasting me longer

could just use T bolt clamps, my setup has no barbs and hoses stay tight at 15psi, just make sure your using the right size hoses as i was reusing one of the factory ones that look pretty much the same on both ends although one side was slightly bigger blowing off all the time until a new 2.5" joiner was bought

good to see your testing your turbo's on the strip since we're on the subject i've got a set of used pineapples that can be bought of me for $50

no the bottom of the header tank is connected to the heater joiner near the block ( might be the one that goes to the thermostat or the one right off the block, need a closer look) and yes the radiator filler neck nipple is connected to the highest point (below the cap) on the H/tank. i'm not running any coolant on the top half of the intake manifold so no bleed point pic below for a rough idea of my set up

since we have a thread up may as well chime in. i'm running a header set up on a rb20 with no swirl pot and i only fill up from the header tank thats mounted next to the brake booster , rad cap isn't pressurized but header cap is of course. i have a standard 8/10mm hose from the highest point on the header tank going to the rad cap nipple and then the hoses from the intake manifold join up to the header tank. my main problem is i always have to do a water flush if i've drained the rad to get the thermostat to open other wise car will just over heat and bottom of rad will be ambient temp. my thinking is theres a pocket of air or something near the thermostat and somehow a water flush helps? other then that works fine so open to opinions

its usually specified time limit + month there after before its de-rego'd unless its gotten tighter try legal aid or another branch of vic roads