Dan_J

Hugh, you and i are one of a kind, similar thing happened on my cefiro years ago disclaimer: beware of gas bonnet struts bahaha!

if you do tune while the engine is NA you will need to use a turbo r34 ECU as the na ecu wont work, the turbo ecu is the only ecu supported for the nistune

SAU is actually going ok....... forums like nissansilvia.com and the like are pretty dead as we all/most use facebook for car n club related organization i'll agree there is spam here n there

JDM obsession had reasonably priced super pro kits

duncan, your trailer combo looks sleek yet doesn't seem like a light weight, still tows fine at speed with no sway ? most dont tow cars with the m35 as they say the chassis is weak so top effort at keeping at it 2K for an air bag set up? just buy in aus its a pretty universal thing pair of bags are bout 300 or less alloy air tank 120-200 lines and fittings 100? air compressor 50-150

where can one get the translated pinouts for each variation of the s1 rb25 ecu?

i'd say its the same as a r33/r34 not r32

as above after a rb25det non neo ecu for s1 c34 would prefer VIC only thanks

pics of shroud and how the thermos are mounted ? there is a wrong way of mounting thermos which will block air flow

not my setup but have all the bits to get it working skim through the older pages of the thread to find the origin of the photo yeah mine was a bit intermittent, after constant use the heat in the cable may make the power drop as well . pretty cheap fix for myself: $8- ba ford starter cable from wreckers $5/10 - battery lugs from jaycar keep the factory cable there and just add another positive cable to terminal in the engine bay to see if its a fix, if not will have to get a 2nd hand cable from a r33 wreck, welding store for the use of welder ground cable which i'm told is priced ok or ebay

you dont have to remote mount --->

^ nice, so it wasn't written off?

if my memory is correct that part number above is same as a non turbo r33 rear pads

seems this will fit fine after a trim of the sides http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/auto-accessories/mats/boot-mats.aspx?id=30203

if you have clearance between the floor pan and exhaust from the engine bar to rear subframe then yes chop the front pipe and shorten the hangers, if the design of the exhaust is angled all over the joint then it might foul on the floor pan once you raise the exhaust due to the chopped front pipe

just crawl under the car and probe it try running the 2nd power cable to the jump start terminal from the alternator if the factory cable is bad

well that aint right, so have you probed the alternator terminals ? http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/442670-alternator-problems-some-answers-inside/

cant answer this directly to your issue although when i took my clutch pedal out to strengthen with more welds and flat bar i also did grind the alignment nut off and welded a new one on the opposite of where it was originally so that i could get more alignment out of the pedal effectively raising the pedal height 10-20mm of adjustment

it seems one can run a safer to more maxed anti-lag setup, the nistune forum has some answers below http://forum.nistune.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=458&sid=8f823c2e989a8755f3bdaf7e68a22255&start=30

anyone else used the 180c lincoln mig before ? http://www.lincolnelectric.com.au/products/page350/category1/category18/power-mig-180c

what are peoples thoughts on the lincoln Invertec V205-T AC/DC TIG, how does it compare to a ac/dc unimig tig ? http://www.lincolnelectric.com.au/products/page350/category1/category27/invertec-v205-t-acdc

check charging voltage at battery first and then check at the terminals on the alternator, this will tell you if your wiring has been chewed through over the years like mine was. if alternator works fine run and 'T' a 30-40amp wire from battery to the positive main wire on the coilpack loom with a relay and 30-40amp fuse

after a new mig welder as the board in my historic 135a cigweld is gone and it keeps pulsing every 2 -3 seconds, mainly after something for thin panel/ exhaust stuff although if the pricing is good wouldnt mind one capable with more amps as even my 135amp was mostly fine with thick 5mm also after a tig so if i can bundle the mig and tig for a saving that would work whats everyone using and who has hook ups and such?

cops- 1, above the law 2, thats USA law your talking about ^ paint injectors black and run nistune

cant confirm but i'd say its a universal thing that most nissans from that era would use as no point for nissan making it just for the ceffy head to deer park wreckers or the nearest that has nissans