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You are really leaning on that stock bottom end as it is. I definately wouldn't move the limiter from where it is.

No entirely accurate.. a bigger turbo at standard boost will still flow more air then a smaller turbo at the same boost. Also the maps will be completely incorrect for the turbo flow.

My car sits on 1 at idle. Highest i see full throttle is generally 8 sometimes goes up to 15. So if i was seeing 15 on idle... id be a little concerned. R33 gts-t making a tad over 280rwhp.

lolol

Hi Guys, Quick question hope im not asking a question thats been covered a thousand times as i did a search and wasnt able to find an answer. I have an r33 gts-t slightly modified relevant modifications; Powerfc Hiflow Turbo T-Piece Bleed Valve Split Dump Trust turbo back exhaust FMIC The boost is set to 10psi however when under load in any gear is sitting on 7psi which it reaches very early in the rev range however it then slowly makes its way up to 10psi not reaching full boost untill around 5700rpm. Is this caused by the bleed valve as i was looking at purchasing a EBC in order to improve my mid range in a hope that it would make full boost as its supposed to. I dont think its the wastegate as its reaching the 7psi that the standard wastegate spring will allow very early in the rev range. Anyhelp is appreciated, Daniel

yeah im referring to lag. The turbo is far to big for your application even if it wasnt a cheap poorly made turbo it would still be useless for an rb20. And as 2GU UP just said the T70 was used on a rb30det

going off your details on the left it says you have a r32 gts-t.. a t70 turbo on a rb20 would be nothing short of useless.

i cannot believe this hasn't sold.. the market just seems to be unbelievably dead for imports.

Reduced piping will make minimal difference in lag. What will make the biggest difference is engine management. At the moment the car is not even starting to utilize the current set up without it.

Sounds like you have had a spot of bad luck, sorry to hear about your other engine. It must be frustrating when so called professionals destroy an expensive engine. Are they accepting any responsibility for the damaged engine? It goes to show how well built a standard bottom end is. Which no doubt has had a reasonably hard 10 years of being driven even if on standard power can still hold up to huge stress. All the best with the car in the upcoming events.

Just out of interest why do you use a standard bottom end and not do a forged build? Is it to prove the strength of the factory engine? Just curious not trying to start any sort of debate the results are very impressive. Also a heads up you posted your results in the rb26 thread not the rb25 thread

He says built for street/strip.. you wouldn't have a chance in hell of register that car.. A carbureted 400 cube v8 = dreaming.

I have one of these on my car and experienced the same issue. Though they do seem to perform quite well once you get passed the installation. Ive been very happy with it.

sounds like its a pitty his engine didnt pack it in ... might want to slow down a bit on the public roads eh?

so how fast were you going at 5600rpm in 4th gear?

Thats what i call selective listening. One person out of a large group of people tell you what you want to hear so you believe it? 60 knock is not conservative at all. And anything over 30 is heading for disaster.

I have a respect for any car that is worthy of it. Any person who feels the need to talk rubbish about any car based purely on ignorance is not an enthusiast. And thus i wouldnt waste my breath talking to them about something im so passionate about.

bit late on my reply i realise... I dont see anything over 1 - 2 knock while driving. And full throttle generally dont see anything over 8. So i deffinately wouldnt jump into a car that is continually sitting on 15 and assume that that all is fine.

who the hell tuned that? 50+knock and 100% duty cycle...

what id give to drive a car like that.

Yeah deffinately a better choice, the car will have unreal response. And to me thats more important that a big power figure. Id sacrifice top end and day for midrange, because to me thats what makes a sports car.

I assume your running an aftermarket turbo on the standard ecu. That is your problem.

its the standard boost solenoid. It goes to the actuator and controls the 2 stage boost that the r33 has standard. You can bypass it and run 7psi constant of the actuator instead of 4 then 7. Cheers,

lol exactly what i was thinking. Whats a bit more money in the face of a complete rebuild. Especially when your talking highly modified street cars being driven hard on the track.

deffinately will be in the running for stupidest thread of the year award.