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nissan200sx.dk

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Everything posted by nissan200sx.dk

  1. Thanks... I was hoping so with the car.. hehe. But wont be until summer were the roads get hot again. There is not much traction right now.
  2. Has been out for a few runs now. Drives very nice. Fantastic response, can feel the 500c extra! hehe. Love this! No use of water, no use of oil, oil is super clean to look at, perfect oil pressure. at idle (1000 rpms right now - 25 psi oil pressure @ 140F. Oil is 10w40 mineral) I need to fit my servo steering though! Damn i need to pull in that steering wheel! And need to build the rest of the exhaust. right now it got a 40cm downpipe after turbo, thats it. (sounds really sweeeeet!!) Need to modify bonnet to fit, cant close as new engine is almost 4cm taller than the rb25.
  3. <-- First start of engine <--- First warmup before drive.
  4. Thank you. I am a little surprised over this build. Start right up, idle perfect, and 2 min of tuning it takes rpms perfect now. No oil or water leaks. Only issue ive had was that oil priming thing! I was expecting a little more in starting it up, but hey! i do not complain! hehe
  5. ITS ALIVE!!!.. :-) First startup today. started right up, nice idle, but dies when touching throttle, so tomorrow a littel tuning and first drive.
  6. Try a search here, and you will find many answers for that question.. :-)
  7. Only engine block has cost me 5239 AUD in total to build complete with new tensioners, belt, etc.. Then there is the GT4094R. RB25DET head is std but re-newed so not that big a cost as i also already had it from me RB25 engine. exhaust manifold has cost me maybe 100AUD, homemade as all other things done to this car. Intake and throttle body is about 400AUD plus ALOT of time to make nice. Intake manifold was a very poor fit, plus very uneven in the runners.Then there is alot of small bits and pieces, dont know what that has run up in. Also got a vi-pec ECU a short time before i started with the RB30 build. This time around i have spent a total of 16592 AUD on the car (this is including the above which is only engine..) And still need to use ~13000AUD to get the car "finished" to were i do not want more done to it.. (I know there is ALWAYS something else to do... hehe). The last picture here is my old CA18DET setup.. Car was completely std when bought 6 years ago.
  8. Dirt:.. Yes sir.. No idle, varying rpms when warming up.
  9. I also plan just to warm her up, check for leaks etc. and get out on the road for tuning. Will only be running ~10 psi boost. After first day which will be about 1 hour total driving i'll change oil. again to mineral oil, and drive with that for the next 1500km. Luckely i have the vi-pec so it will be a walk in the park to tune in. :-) I'm a little excited about the difference in combusten if any..?? I have mounted a exhasut temp probe to each cylender. I'm using a copy of the greddy intake manifold.
  10. 1. The RB30 4 blocks SPOOL IMPORTS was so kind to supply me with! 2. One cleaned block. Bored to the new CP pistons, and ready for install. 3. Spool conrods, ARP bolts, CP pistons - ceramic coated on top and teflon coated on the side. CP piston rings. 4. Pistons and rods mounted. Main bolts i use unbrako 12.9 bolts. (example. Opel lotus omega use this as std) 5. Fitting the intake plenum to renewed head. Portmatched, and a little porting. Otherwise std RB25 head for now. (Done the oil mods, enlarged the oil return, extra oil return to oil pan etc.. 6. Engine ready to go in. 7. Old RB25DET setup. 8. New RB30DET engine in. 9. Relocation of fuse boks.. 10. More engine work and the work place / car. 11. Test mounting the turbo. (GT4094R) 12. Exhaust manifold done, turbo mounted correct way, exthaust temp probes mounted at each cylender, wiring done, (only wiring in engine bay is for engine and temp probes) 13. Heat wraping done. 14. Were i am now. I need to put clamp on pressure piping, mount water cooler, fill her up and crank it. (This picture is before oil cooler was mounted, its there now. 19 rows.) There is alot other work to the car.. But this is engine thread soo.. :-) This is my budget build on a RB30DET.. To reach the aim i have i still need to get a double or triple clutch, and some headwork. (Cams, and springs and least!) The aim is 700 - 800 crank HP. (With MAYBE 150 NOS ontop for 1/4).. But for now it is ~500 crank HP until the things i need done are done..
  11. Took of the oil hose to oil cooler, the one that goes the CORRECT way to oil pump. Got ~0.5 liter in there while cranking the engine backwards. It sucked the oil straight in. Connect hose back to oil cooler, and behold oil poured out at the turbo oil feed after 10 secs of cranking. thanks for the help guys!
  12. i would never dream off starting my new engine up if i am not sure oil is getting through. I have the time to try the diferent things today. I'll report back how it goes.
  13. Thanks alot for the replys! I will try today to feed oil the other way in..
  14. wipe bearings??? is my brand new engine perhaps already worn?? cranked for a total of 5 min i think....
  15. THANK YOU VERY MUCH!! This would be really helpfull, as this is VERY anoying no oil pressure thingy.. I want to start the bastard up! Is there any change of damage after all that cranking and no oil pressure? (It was all well lubed when assembled).. (And no spark plugs, so no compression)
  16. CAS is of, injectors are unplugged and no sparkplugs mounted.. I do not have a remote oil filter. :-( Oil to the filter dont that enter in the middle??? From the pump.. Oil pickup - oil pump - oil filter (in the middle) - out oil filter (all the small holes) - to engine block. <--- is this not the correct way oil goes from sump?
  17. Std RB25DET pump, as used in my RB25DET engine.. Worked perfect. I do not measure pressure, i look if oil comes out. Both from turbo feed line, and when that did not work, i took oil filter off and watch that hole. No oil is coming out anywere. I have tryed putting 0,4 liter oil through the oil feed line to turbo, to try and prime it up, i have tryed to put 0,4 liter oil through the hole were oil filter usually gets oil. The thread in the middle. Mounted a hose to is, and have filled ~0,4 liter in there also. Nothing works to get the pump pumping oil...? When i built the engine oil pick-up got a new o-ring. Any ideas what i can try and do?
  18. Hi all. I am finished with my RB30DET build, but i can not prime oil pressure.. I have cranked ALOT! Tryed priming oil in the block different places.. I wont pump oil Any suggestions on what to do next?? Thank you
  19. i drilled and tapped a new hole, belt is mounted now. Thanks for your replys.
  20. Dooooh! I saw under the RB build sub forum, in spools imports crank thread some computer predictions people made were the value for intake cam was 12 degrees before TDC..... You are sure it begins to open at 0 TDC? So when i put my measuring device on intake cam bucket, it should begin to move when piston 1 is 0 TDC? Is this correct understood?
  21. Hmmm.. Does it BEGIN to open 0 TDC? Or is it fully open at 0 TDC? I need to know when it will begin to activate the intake hyd. lifter on cylender 1... This is so I can setup my cams correct to the crank after my RB25/30 build.
  22. the first thing i tryed with was 2 x tensioners from RB.... that was a no go! The CA idler is smaller in diameter and made it possible to mount the belt..
  23. And some photos from my current build of engine and car.
  24. This is the overhang there is..... Is this okay, or would it ruin the belt if i run the engine?
  25. There is 1mm overhang from belt to idler.. Will this ruin the belt?
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