nissan200sx.dk

I use a idler from my old CA18 on passenger side of engine, and rb25 tensioner on other side. This way i can get the belt on. Is this okay??

Thank you very much.

Hi all.. I need to find this info: When my inlet cam begins to open, at what degree in crank rotation. And when it is closed again, at what crank rotation. Engine is R33 RB25DET series 1. Std cams, std cam gear. Thank you very much.

I was hoping not to redrill.. But if there is no other solution i must

Hi all. I bought the 152 tooth timing belt that Spool imports supply for the rb25/30 conversion.. But its not long enough... !! My fault not Spools! I used the rb30det.pdf thats around to setup my tensioner pulley. Were its written in a picture were to mount the tensioner. i need a other belt that is 2 - 3 tooth longer.. 4 -5 tooth will prob be okay also. Were and what can i use? I have looked in Dayco wepshop, and can see the tooth proflile for the belt used in the .pdf file is: STP8M (Dayco number 94407). Can I use other tooth profile? Or is my only option the 164 tooth long belt? If still need to be STP8M profile...? Do you think i can use the 164 tooth belt?? Really hope someone can help me out here.

Yes but they want 1500 SEK for them.. that is 237 AUD... I think this a liiiiitle high.

Have sent a Pm to him now. But any links to were i can buy them?? Cant seem to find any.. :-(

Hi all. I am looking for fuel / oil pressure sensors that gives out a 0 - 5 volt signal. Anyone know were to find them? I have found some, but damn they are expensive!... Thank you.

I use original unbrako 12.9 bolts for mains. They have tensile strenght of ~1250MPa.. (~180.000 psi). This is pretty close to ARP bolts, for a fraction of the cost of real ARP bolts... So looking for better bolts than std, std are pretty strong as RIPS prove, but still want better but think ARP is to expensive try unbrako 12.9 bolts.

Huh? No restrictor at all?? I know there is one in the turbo, but I should fit no extra? This is from Garrett's wesite. "Ball-bearing turbochargers can benefit from the addition of an oil restrictor, as most engines deliver more pressure than a ball bearing turbo requires. The benefit is seen in improved boost response due to less windage of oil in the bearing. In addition, lower oil flow further reduces the risk of oil leakage compared to journal-bearing turbochargers. Oil pressure entering a ball-bearing turbocharger needs to be between 40 psi and 45 psi at the maximum engine operating speed. For many common passenger vehicle engines, this generally translates into a restrictor with a minimum of 0.040" diameter orifice upstream of the oil inlet on the turbocharger center section. Again, it is imperative that the restrictor be sized according to the oil pressure characteristics of the engine to which the turbo is attached. Always verify that the appropriate oil pressure is reaching the turbo" I will be using RB25 oil pump, with hydraulic 24 valve head fitted with 2 x 1.5mm oil restrictors to the head from block. And 1.5mm restrictor for the VCT valve that will have it own hose. (Drilled in the head, and coming from side of block) I have NO idea how much flow the oil pump makes with this setup. I have oil pressure for engine and can fit oil pressure for turbo also if needed to make sure. I dont want to blow my brand new GT4094R. hehe

Adriano. Block will be cleaned very good. Rest: Garret specify 40 - 45 psi oil pressure on max engine speed, and say"For many common passenger vehicle engines, this generally translates into a restrictor with a minimum of 0.040" diameter orifice upstream of the oil inlet on the turbocharger center section" And I should always check that this is correct. Info from garrett here: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...r/faqs.html#t16 So i need to mount oil pressure gauge for that when running my engine? I would prefer not to weld in the sump. So i will drill and tap 2 x 10mm holes in block. Both used as return for oil from the head. Will use the std hole in block for turbo return. Thank you.

Hi all. I have searched but cant seem to find a answer. I am building a RB30/25, using RB25 oilpump, and 1.5mm restrictors to the RB25 head. On the exhaust side of the RB30 block there is a oil out. I will be using that to feed my GT4084R turbo. Do i need a oil restrictor before the GT4094R? Or should i just hook it up and leave it using the built in restrictor in the Gt4094R? Also, there is only one oilreturn in the block, can i hook up, turbo drain, std head drain, and extra head drain to that using a T peice.. (Not T, but with 3 fittings. You get the picture) Thank you.

Hi all. does it matter were i put the niple for the wastegate in the comp housing. Should I use location 1 or location 2?

When the journal is regrounded, its gets smaller, and the R2 radi goes from journal and up the side. If the diameter gets smaller the radi doesnt go from journal and up, because journal has been grinded smaller... hope you understand, im not that good in english. The place I work do magnaflux crack testing. Which they are certified to do.. Have you heard of that? Thanks alot for your replys! Has helped me alot!

Thanks alot for your help and replys. Have ordered the bearings .025 undersize. And will take the block, crank bearings to the company than will peforms the grinding. I just wanted to understand the part when grinding crank / undersize bearings. I have built a few engines, but have never tryed to get a crank regrounded, and using undersize bearings. The engines I have built I could use std size nissan bearings. But this one I cant. Have to learn somehow. When the crank is reground, should the R2 fillet be moved also?

My concern is now. How far in is the crank journals hardended?? Have had a long talk with the company that will be doing the job. They explained. hehe. Learned something today. They will mount the bearings in the block, measure, and grind of the crank journals so there is the correct tolerance. Only "problem" is my concern if it will take of the hardend part of the journals.

The thing is, I want to take as little as possible of the crank, only taking off so its straight, and then the rest in the block. Is this possible? Or is all basicly taken from journals to fit oversize bearings? I dont know how far in the material is hardend on crank journals, and want to keep the hardended surface. I am not building a std RB30, so I really want the crank to be as straight as possible. Im hoping for around 800hp at engine when Im done. I have measured with precise tools. (0.001mm accuracy @ 20 degress, freshly calibrated from work) By the way, the run-out i said earlier in my post was total gauge needle deflection. Which was 0.045mm. So my run-out is only half of that? Thanks alot for your answer sir. Regards Ronni

It is a specialist that will do the job. I am just trying to figure it all out. There will not be taken the same amout of each journal, but they will be grinded to the same size. How about my "calculation" of bearings, og how much there should be taken of in total.? Am I way off there too? Thanks for the reply

Hi all. Its these ACL bearings I have looked at: http://www.aclperformance.com.au/NissanRB30ETBearings.htm The 0.025" oversize. (0.635mm) I am bit confused with this so hoping for a clear answer. I am building a RB25/30DET engine. The crank has 0.045mm run-out. Measured with front and rear bearing mounted and then measuring on the middle mainbearing on crank. So i want to get it regrounded. But im confused on how much to take off the crank and how much to take of the blocks mains.. If I understand this correct I can take 0.06mm of the crank so there is no run-out, and then grind the rest down to same size. 54.90mm on crank on all mains, and all main will then run with each other. A straight crank. This wont take that much material off, and I will hopefully still have a layer of nitrided on the crank. Then I still have 0.575 back from the 0.635 oversize bearings. The rest will then be taken from the blocks mains. I then get the blocks main bearings line-honed up to to 59.225mm, 0.575mm over the std size of the block mains.. Then in total its the 0.635mm these bearings are oversize from were I am right now in my actual parts measurements. This is my actual measurements as the parts are right now down below. Front bearing first. Main Bearing number: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 54.945 54.940 54.955 54.960 54.960 54.960 54.960 Block main bearing: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 58.655 58.655 58.656 58.660 58.650 58.660 58.655 Should I split the total oversize, so there is taken half of the 0.635mm off on crank, and the other half on block, or is it okay to split it up as have been thinking off? I hope this is explained properly by me here. Im not that good in english. Hope someone will take the time to help me here, as I have never done this before using oversize bearings and getting a crank reground. The actual machining will be done by a company here in Denmark, but need to know what measurements it should be. And also want to understand it better. Thank you very much! Love this site. Its my bibel. hehe

No updates on the RB30 stroker crank / kit.?

The RB25DET crank pully, will that fit the RB30 crank? (Im am not using power steering and AC in my car). the 3rd pully on the crank is removable on the RB30 crank pully, which is good as i dont have any space infront of the engine for my water cooler. So a std RB30 crank pully with the 3rd pully bolted of, would that be good enough? Cant find a place here in Denmark that can acid clean the block. How should I clean it out then? Spray my own acid cleaning agent on and wash it down? There is alot of "stuff" in water channels. Could I just use something to remove it? Like when cleaning a shower for limescale, I think its called.. (Water that builds up over time stuff, dont know the english word) Thank you. Right now I have begun to read the entire RB30 conversion thread. 346 pages.. damn. Have read the .pdf from Cobra30

Also. The crank pully. There are 3 different?!? How come is that? Only 2 are the same, the other 2 has different pullys. Some use a slotted pully, other doesnt, on there are size difference on diameter.

Should I use a block that has been driven with an automatic box or manual box? I know I need to fit the bushing in the crank on a automatic.

Thanks for clearing up what blocks they are. Thank you all.

I bought them from Spool imports He has been very very helpfull. My car is the only one with RB25DET here in denmark, and now its going to get a RB30DET instead. (200sx - s13) The price is just fine, as i have sold the 3 others, so my own engine hasnt cost me a dime. But need to choose the one I want. I will be changing pistons/rods/bearing etc. And use RB25DET oil/water pump. The thing I'm after is if one block is more prefered than the other. (only block) If a turbo block is more suited for turbo in any kind over the NA block. (remember I will be changing pistons/rods/bearings etc) Also, if I coat the pistons will the oil squrters be required to fit? (I know I have to drill and tap for them) EDIT: Sorry for picture qaulity, its my cell camera. Hope you can see it good enough