WAN73D

thanks for that manwhore. that helps i'll try looking at mine tomorrow when i get some time. i'll post back to let people know what banjo's i found on my 1990.

yes ..yes it is...hahaha ok i'm just gonna hope that by the year 1990 the engineers at nissan said "man i'm over this whole mystery banjo thing, lets just make em all 24's"...haha

...and your comment (1400R) does not help at all... i'm just trying to establish some guidelines by which rb20 owners can go off if they wanna do a checklist of what to look for pre rb25 turbo-operation. i'm just tryin to be helpfull because i guarantee you this question will come up again in another month if not before..because even with a few write ups floating around the banjo thing is still not in concrete. I'm tryin to make a little self help thing here by which someone like me reads it and then goes: "ok i have bought a rb25 turbo - check" "i have bought the rb25 turbo elbow (or am willing to modify the rb20 one) - check" "are my banjos gonna be 22's or 24's - yay i have determined that theyr 24's ----> lets go do some bolting at our friends workshop! so i was just asking politely if the banjos are easy to locate and measure and allow me to go on my merry little way.

ooo...silly me i just realized that when u talk about the sizes your talking about the size of the head and NOT the thread size. yeh makes sense..24mm is a bit big for a thread size..yeh i shoulda picked up on that earlier....jackass (talking to myself). ok so next thing..... and this one may seem stupid can i measure this head of the banjo bolt easily buy putting my head under the bonnet in the turbo direction...maybe by removing the heat shield or something or do i havta go digging and unbolting to be able to finally measure it..in which case the turbos practically off and i may as well proceed to swap.. perhaps the waterline goes somewhere else and uses the same bolts as at the turbo..these could be an indicator? what should i be looking for??

yeh manwhore and dave...thanks for the fast replies but as manwhore said...it's not very consistent either. and i have read before somewhere (haha maybe u were the one that wrote it manwhore..haha) that amongst the "early models" they may or may not have the correct size banjos...simple as that but my gut feeling is that the waterlines were standardized for the 1990 yr onwards...tho i dont know this thru experience. bhdave: does measuring the size of the head on the banjo of my 32 and comparing it to the head of the r33 banjo really guarantee that their threads will be the same size dia?....i mean its a good call that u have and i'm sure its probably correct...but in the "nuts and bolts" industry in general measuring a head does not guarantee that you can determine the thread size. Tho i think ur right.. in this case its prob safe to say without having to unbolt stuff.

HI GUYS, i'm trying to sus out the old rb25 turbo onto an rb20 myth (and no...don't you dare type back with "try searching") my research has found that it is a straight bolt on in SOME cases with only the elbow a nessecity. BUT from what i have read..the earlier model r32's need the banjo bolts and waterline as well...or somethnig like this i want to know exactly who had success with a "straight bolt on" and what yr model (particularly around the 1990 and 1991 yr). because i have a 1990 but suspect this is included in the "early" r32 series and hence i need the turbo + elbow+ water line + banjo bolts = bitch will also need to know the turbo u used - was it series 1 or two? but this i dun think makes the difference i just dont want to get caught half way through the operation with a not fitting water line. please start sharing info brothers and sisters.... thnx

hey mate i cant seem to get my PM through to you I'm interested in the 33 turbo dump and elbow just wanted to know k's done on it, boost run on it, series it came off and if you got any pictures i'm from syd and close to freeway so not too much prob coming to check it out jeremy

thanks for that salad. appreciated Mark: from what i've read everything else should be straight bolt on as is. ie whatever else bolts onto the rb20 turbo will bolt onto the rb25 turb. but that's only what i've read sooooo if someone who's actually done it or seen it done would like to comment on this then go ahead...

hey kids i'm toying with the idea of putting on an rb25 turbo onto my 1990 gtst. reason for thinking this mod is good is because its relatively cost effective for mildish gains which im after. thing is i have read posts that say u need the r33 elbow as well or u'll havto machine (or something) the r32 one in order to get it to fit. my question is...is the elbow the induction pipe to the turbo? is that what they mean by this? ie will this mean that i will need: a new pod, an r33 AFM, and "Elbow" to cover myself for the induction side suddenly this doesnt seem very cost effective anymore or can i just use my stock r32 setup??? anyone got wisdom??...shed some light pls.

hey anyone wanna sell me some r32 gtst sideskirts either looking like gtr style or type m style. Preferably in a sparkle black type colour as well??? maybe after rear pods too thanx. i'm located in sydney

maybe stupid question do gtr sideskirts fit onto a gtst? i'd b interested if they do

hey mate yeh i thought it could be one of those there's no real problem at the moment hence i reckon its bad fuel or sparkies lil bit old with ur car jerking i'd say could be fuel pump. my mate recently changed his fuel pump in a 200sx and said it was jerking before he changed it. Just a lil bit of feed back...i dont want to tell u to change anything cos i'm obv not the mechanic. cheers

ahh...i see. Yeh i think ur right it must be a "rough" figure mixed in with a lil bit of boost gauge innaccuaracy. just by the sounds of it tho on these forums people were saying its a definate 10 psi actuator, no more no less. there u have it people, i have been running 11.25 psi (at least) on my stock r32 for at least 1.5 years and the turbo hasn't gone boom!

hey guys I've just installed a boost gauge onto my r32 gtst which has pod filter, high flow cat ,and cat back exhaust. Now i know that when u put the exhaust on u can see upto around 10psi. The thing is my boost gauge tells me i have around 11.25 psi, when we all know that the stock wastegate actuator is 10 psi...so is it my guage or am i missing something here i have t'd the gauge off from the stock boost gauge line. anyone know anything about this?

so is this accessorie line at the back of the stereo a line that will make my gauge illuminate when the parkers and headlights are on. or will the gauge light be constantly on if i use this source? thanks for the reply

hey kids just bought a pricol boost gauge (looks sweet) and have mounted it. Will do vaccum line ok later. Prob i'm having is that most guys on this forum say to tap the red power line into that of the cigarette lighter. THing is my cig lighter has never worked and i just tried to tap in then and got no result. So others have been saying go to your parker lights. Can anyone tell me EXACTLY how to get to this and what line it is. Cos i want the light on only when i turn on lights. its an r32 so i dont think i have that light dimmer thing that some other people tap into. and yes i have searched (this is how i know which places people tap into) but there's no exact description of how to do it. once again help is awesome and appreciated.

fair enough guess i must admit...but....the clutch was put in like a yr n half ago so not likely. i think it actually MAY have been bad bit of fuel and or sparkies gettin old...cos it was ok to drive today...very odd tho

Also. just went out and revved it in neutral....actually sounds very nice. all the way up the rev range (say to 6K) with blow off at the end so it seems to be only struggling under load (in gear).

checked piping dun think that's the prob

sorry... forgot to say that is pretty much stock except for cat back exhaust and pod filter and some crazy dark black tinted windows (hehe)

hey everyone. R32 GTST 1990 Was driving home last night with the usual semi-enthusiastic driving we all like to do. Turned a corner and the car just didnt feel the same acceleration wise. Also going up hills in say 3rd or 4th it will rev to say 2K or 3K and just sorta not want to go past this. Out of first and second it will rev out ok but a lil bit slower then usual. The stock turbo gauge indicates that it can get full pressure...so i dun think it's turbo the car also sounds exactly how it should (perfect note) at idle. such a wierd thing...i turn the corner and power is now only 2/3 of what it should be and up hills can only make it to a certain limit. I have done my searches and most people seem to report power losses ABOVE a certain higher range (say 5K) mine seems to be just in general not that great a much power as before I'm thinkin fuel pmup, or piping, or coil packs as per the suggestions in other threads just wanna know if anyone experienced this problem and what was the resolution?? any help would be great!

ok guys. i think i've fixed my problem so i thought i would post back how i did this. no surprises, its no different to what's been posted before. i just cut the regulator (AMP) box width ways around the existing line. The circuit board then just slid out i Then inspected the board to find a small...only tiny break between one of the plug solder connections...just cleaned this up and added some solder. This tiny break was like microscopic....no wonder so many peoples regulators are dying hope this helps any of u with windows trubs....worth a try before you book it into mechanic who'll charge big bucks for nothin. peace out jeremy

FYI i am at the moment cutting it width ways along the join that is there from the factory...still quite deep and i'm worried that i'lll cut into a electrical contact or something

hey kiddies my drivers side window now works intermittently. AND i have searched here in the forums. this has lead me to believe it is some faulty electrical contacts within the regulator (lil black box inside door trim with AMP written up top). The thing is the guys here have said that they just open this up and clean and re solder some joints. I'm asking...how exactly do you just open this up its a closed plastic box...do i cut it??...and which way is best anyone with experience....help would be appreciated

sounds easy enough can i ask...does anyone know if an r32 would be the same general procedure? i also have rattling when closing and also i've notice it now a lil bit at idle