PSI_GTSII

Nah...theres a spool in it atm. Traction is better, but still an issue obviously :Oops: RB30DET would (or will 4 you) be a weapon indeed

Yeah my starts are shocking But remember the first 2 secs of video I had'nt let clutch out

This is how well the RB30ET goes in my R31 http://users.tpg.com.au/realj/IMGP1238.AVI (Right click save target as)

Well like everyman and his dog I am in the process of picking up an R32 GTR from Japan atm. (Thru Prestige) Anywho...I probably should have asked these questions before laying down the readies but... 1. I believe removal of a fuse is all thats required for 2WD / 4WD, can this be rigged up to an In Cab switch? 2. If so generally how strong is the rear diff, at handling this sorta stuff. 3. What is the Maximum performance (HP @ Wheels) I can expect with Factory comp, Turbos, injectors & IC...and which is the weakest link? 4. What would be required for 400-450HP @ wheels? 5. And what are the most common problems assc with the GTR mechanically. Any help appriciated as I am sure these questions are asked all the time Cheers Lindsay

Incase you were wondering what 340rwHP is like in a 31 well.... http://users.tpg.com.au/realj/IMGP1238.AVI or http://members.westnet.com.au/heats/r31%20060.avi (Right click 'save target as') Not the best quality...or conditions...but hey

Heres your chance to own one of, if not the Best, and Fastest R31 GTS2 in Australia The car Presents absolutely immaculate inside and out, and under the bonnet. Currently running 340rwHP @ 14psi. (current setup should be capable of almost 400rwHP) Definate Low 12 second QTR capable car, whilst retaining great driveability due to fantastic torque spread from low RPM....will trundle around in 5th and still out accelarate most vehicles 1989 R31 Skyline GTS2 No. 158/200 RB30ET All the usual GTS2 standard features including: Remote engine oil cooler Momo S/Wheel & G/Knob Scheel front and rear seating (awesome!) Alarm C/lock P/S A/C 16" Alloys with new tyres As well as: Sony Explode stereo system, including 12" Sub, 6x9's, 6" splits, 50w x 4 RMS amp. 20Psi Boost Guage. Turbosmart incab boost control. Dark window tint. Koni Adjustable shocks with King springs Whiteline Strut brace (Not fitted yet) MiniSpool Diff (Standard LSD still working sold with car also) Greenstuff Pads new front discs. 5 Puck brass button clutch Veem engineering 3" single piece tailshaft. Wolf 3Dv4 EMS VLT T3/4 Hiflow JPC VL30TX1 cam Forged pistons 7.8:1 comp Malpassi rising rate reg Bosch 040 pump Bosch 036 injectors 600x300x76 Hybrid cooler Full 3" Mandrel exhaust. Motor rebuilt under 2000kms ago, water pump, valve stem seals, acid bathed, timing belt, cam gear...basically everything replaced in the process. 224'000kms on Odometer. Anywho...I want $14000 n/n for it so as to make way for an R32 GTR I will be importing Email if seriously interested only: [email protected]

Funnily enough that is someone elses car!... I live in Atwell...but see that one driving around from time to time. Oh and thx for the support

There may not have been many Skylines there this year but an R33 GTR Skyline won Go to Whoa And I got 4th in the Slalom, Behind two EVO's and a WRX.........Bloody 4WD..thats cheatin

Car: R31 Skyline GTSII Engine: RB30ET Power: Approx 253rwkw Mods: VLT T3/4 Hiflow Turbo, Wolf 3Dv4, full 3" mandrel system, JPC Cam, Bosch 036 injectors, Bosch Motorsport fuel pump, Large IC. Acheived on SST dyno Perth, in Shootout mode on 14psi Never mind the HP look at the torque

I'd do it to be different..... But, at the end of the day the Toyota Blower will struggle to make more than 200rwHP, and as happens to ...everyone...that wants to increase there cars HP they soon become accustomed to it & want more!....then where do you go from there with your little blower? Turbo's are tried and tested and offer great results for relatively little $$$ RB30's come with Bags of low down torque Turbo's or S/Charged.

Great thread love it But honestly Jamesh the 'ONLY' time you will ever (as I call it) 'SLIP' the clutch in a drag race is if: 1. You stuff the start and Bog down. 2. You are caught off guard / off Boost in a rolling start situation. In everyother Drag racing situation there should be no need to practice this technique, as the gear ratios in your R33 are pretty well set up so as when you rev one gear out and change into the next you are on Boost in that gear already....why would you want to 'Slip' the clutch again? Drifters use this techinique so as to unsettle the car in / approaching corners.

I have just fitted a rising rate reg to my RB30.... a fuel injector 'cleaner guy' was out today fixing a Leaky injector I had and was shocked at my fuel pressure...apparently 100kpa at idle...! He bypass'd the reg and got it down to 50Kpa, where it ran smoother... What pressure should it run at idle?

What you reckon 12months from a 200'000km old RB30, which then produced over twice its original power, attended track days, drift days, drags, numerous cruizes, as well as gettin me to work is bad?!....Bwahaha...A 200'000km old original VLT would probably have done the same thing Seriously the main reason anyone would attempt this conversion is Ease, Bang for your Buck (it is the best), NO LAG performance and the fact you can retain your own vehicle...Known quantity....if you have the choice of Purchasing a VLT or an NA VL and turboing it then yeah save yourself the hassle grab the VLT As for the Brakes and suspension they can be cheaply & easily retrofitted to far outperform standard VLT items, lets face it VLT FE2 suspension is pretty average at best when new!, the VLT Gearbox is a big advantage in strength, having said that my old NA box is hanging in there fine running behind a Button clutch and minispool diff so....!..? Diffs are physically the same size, only the VLT ran 28spline rather than 25 spline axles.

Trust me the conversion is Cheap and easy, and yields huge performance gains over NA, well worth it!. I turbo'd my 200'000km old RB30, and got 12months of 280rwHP out of it before cracking 2 piston ring lands. Max boost I could run with large IC was 9psi, Driveability was supurb...no lag whatsoever....Do it you wont regret it, I know a lot who have and non are sorry, I certainly was'nt FTR...VLTs run bigger brakes / Calipers on the front, unbreakable but notcy MX7 manual box similar to RB25DET item, 28 spline LSD (which probably acts as single spinner now anyway!), and FE2 suspension (re: crap) Sure spent some dollars on Brakes, new shocks and King springs, retain the NA 5 spd mine is still going, and you'll be cruizing Try www.calaisturbo.com They will be able to give you more info & is a usefull place to pick up the parts you will need

442hp.....well done! I'll be sure to Avoid that thing on the street!

I always use ATS in O'Connor Cheap n Freindly service. Rebuilt my VLT T3 with T4 internals as well as Hi Flowing......$1200 It has produced about 280rwHP @ 9psi on 9.0:1 comp RB30......I'm hoping it will be good enough to produce 400rwHp on 7.8:1 Bottom end I now have !....?

MT Pleasent PS Willetton PS Willetton HS

I'm 33, And drive a 31.....

Got a 13.8 @ 108.88mph on the weekend in my R31 GTSII. Crap ET good mph I also own the slowest skyline on the list, but it is a Non turbo RB30 R31 auto wagon, which ran a 16.223 @ 84.50mph

CaminPerth: I think I musta missed something with the Driftin thread...it was there last night? Someone start a " i'm better than you at drifting" debate or something? Anyway I did get the links to the pic's http://files.franzonline.net/images/2003-0...atMCMotorsport/

Ewww...this will test the memory banks! 1. VC Commodore 4cyl (man)-------First car 1987 2. Escort RS2000 (man)--------------Rolled 3. Corrolla P/Van 1984 (man)-------Courier Phase 4. Mitsubishi Sigma 2.6 (man)-------1988 5. VB SLE 4.2 V8 (Auto)--------------slow / thirsty 6. Subaru 4x4 1980 1600(man)----First 4x4 Hell fun 7. VH SLE Commodore 6cyl (auto then Man)-1st fully modded car 8. Datsun 1000 wagon (man)------3 on tree Great Bunky 9. Datsun 180B (Man)----------------1st attempt at complete respray 10. VB Commodore 6cyl (auto) 11. Mazda 808 Wagon (Man)-------Nuther great Bunky 12. FJ20T Bluebird wagon (Man)---Circa 1994 ran 13.1s 13. Vauxhall Cavalier 1985 (Man)--Living in England 14. Peugeot 504 Diesel (Man)------ Living in England 15. R31 Skyline 1989 (Man)---------Should never have sold it 16. Starion Turbo 1982 (auto!)-----Handled well but POS 17. Nissan Bluebird wagon (Man)--bought as daily driver for FJ20 wagon 18. Subaru 4x4 wagon 1983 1800 (Man)--BodyLift / huge wheels 19. Holden Jackaroo LS 1984 (Man)--------Lift Kit Huge Wheels 20. VP Senator 185i (auto)-------------------Great fuel Econ ran 15.4s 21. Holden Jackaroo LS 1990 (Man)--------Huge Wheels 22. SR20T Nissan Bluebird TRX (man)------Ran CA20 for 12months, SR20 ran 12.8's 23. Nissan Pintara Ti 1992 (auto)-----------Nice seats Elec everything 24. Mazda 626 (Auto)-------------------------Back in England 25. R31 Skyline GTSII (Auto then Man)----Current car 26. R31 Pintara wagon (Ca20 then Rb30)-Current car Most were modified in some way or another, some were changed into completely different looking / driving vehicles!, I had up to 4 at anyone time, all listed were licensed and daily drivers All are the reason i have no money today

For me the driveability of the 5 puck Brass button is fine.....not as smooth as your standard one obviously...but no where near as bad as some of the horror stories you will no doubt hear. It has 3200lb of clamping pressure, and clutch weight has increased, but I found it to light in standard form anyway. Basically with the brass buttons the more buttons you have the less savage it will drive, with cushioned Button clutches being probably the best compromise and costing around $150 more than the $480 I paid. The only time it really becomes apparent you are driving a Button clutch is really on takeoffs and on down changes, but you soon get the hang of it, i find double clutching on the downchange allows smooth changes when you just want to drive sedately I have never had one wear or break

200rwKW + here 5 Puck brass button clutch doin fine This is the 3rd High HP car I have used a brass button in and they have never let me down, cost is reasonable at approx $500.

Cheers DCIEVE ......its very frustrating when you know something to be true ie RB20's into the 12's for cheap, and you have a load of people on there saying it can't!....still I find the Odd 'heated' debate entertaining Nate: I would have spent probably twice as much as RB20Lagwagon and will run no faster....but I have my reasons for retaining the RB30

Some of you guys should check out this thread...as some dont seem to believe RB20DETs are capable of 12's!......Even though I have stated knowing of 2 with reletively minimal mods (Simon / Sean) which are!!! http://www.r31skylineclub.com/forum/index....d=3381;start=30 Oh well