PSI_GTSII

My apologies...it does show now.....

Thought i'd try this and put up a video of my old R31: http://skylinesaustralia.vidiac.com/video/...eee29684310.htm Yet is does not seem to show on the main page: http://skylinesaustralia.vidiac.com ??

As far as I'm concerned 0-100kmh times used as a guide to a cars performance sucks.... The UK especially seem obsessed with it...I guess it gives there 'Hot' hatchbacks a chance of appearing quick....? Its to short a time period for me to show a cars true performance. Even just printing a 400m time is not really an accurate guide. In a perfect world I'd like Magazines to test each cars standing KM performance with it broken down into speed and distance increments such as 60ft, 660ft, 400m and 1000m etc so you can really see where cars are strong and weak in performance

Heres something I knocked up which may simplify it...? (btw, it is not mathmatically accurate, and is just to highlight the issue) CAR A: Fast starting car with tapering off top end 0-10kmh = 1 second = 2 metres 10-20 kmh =1 second = 4 metres 30-40kmh =1 second = 8 metres 50-60kmh = 1 second= 12 metres 70-80kmh =2 seconds= 40 metres 90-100kmh = 4 seconds= 160 metres Total 0-100 time is 10 seconds and covers 226metres CAR B: Slow starting car with strong finish 0-10kmh = 3 seconds = 6 metres 10-20 kmh = 2 seconds = 8 metres 30-40kmh = 2 seconds = 16 metres 50-60kmh = 1 seconds = 12 metres 70-80kmh = 1 seconds = 20 metres 90-100kmh = 1 seconds = 40 metres Total 0-100kmh time is 10 seconds and covers 102metres

Nice Video I see you took it nice and easy around the motokharna course.......

Basically When talking 0-100kmh races, the 'KMH' is the Constant and the 'Distance' reached varies. When talking 400m races the 'Distance' is the Constant and the 'KMH' reached Varies. Simple......

Heres a few more Pics of the amazing detail of the KYOSHO R32 GTR

I should add that was in an RB30ET not the GTR.

Not what you want to hear but mine used to pop out when I had broken Piston ring lands..... It also came up ok in Compression test. Go the leak down test

Do'snt matter what Turbo or Boost you run...,! If in 2nd gear at the moment you are doing 60kmh at 4000rpm, you will still be doing 60 kmh at 4000rpm in 2nd with 30psi of boost and a T88 Turbo........You will just get there quicker. What you are describing is gearing which 'does not' change according to power levels.

Not the first test of it but heres a few 32 GTR tests in Australia http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...album=145&st=45 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...album=145&st=54 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...album=145&st=36

Ebbro are the only people who produce the R33 GTR afaik, its only in 1/43rd scale however

This is the new Kyosho R32 GTR, it dos'nt show it in the pics but you can remove the boot floor to reveal the space saver tyre, and fold the seats etc.

Kyosho and Autoart are both top quality Diecast car Manufacturers. One is not better than the other..... It really depends on the specific model they do, for Example the new Kyosho R32 GTR sh*ts on the Autoart equivilent, yet on another car the Autoart one may be a better replica. Minichamps also make some quality 1/18 models Heres a few of mine: Autoart Porsche GT3R and Minichamps Sierra Revell Opel Manta, Autoart Audi Quattro and Autoart Torana SLR5000 Autoart R32 GTR Kyosho 240z, Revell 350z and Kyosho 2000 GT-R Autoart R34 GTR BTW, I have found at $129 IKEA make the best Value for money Display Cabinets, they are about 6ft tall, all glass, and have 4 display levels (3 x 1/18 cars per), they also come with a light

Apart from a few R32 GTRs sold locally by Nissan, The R31 Series was the last Skyline sold in Australia. Hence you wont get a list price new in Aust of a "series 1 R33 GTST 4 door"

I had a similar urge one afternoon to paint my Rocker covers, I already had the paint and figured it "Should take about an hour"............ Well, Although not a hard job by any stretch of the imagination it did take quite a lot longer than I expected, with removal of a few more parts than I had expected.... all up I think it took about 3 hours, and I rushed it as it was getting dark. Also, be carefull when removing the ignitor wires from underneath the 'rocker Valley cover' (?) I did'nt put mine back in correctly and not long after painting the rocker covers the car ran like shit as the plug had vibrated loose.....took ages (and a few $..!) before I diagnosed the problem.....

Could'nt give a rats arse who airs the V8's, I have'nt bothered to watch it in years.....FAR rather watch some grass roots motorsport, long for the old Group A days with the Mustangs, Volvo's, BM's, Nissans etc....sigh. And fwiw i'd have to give the latest series of 5th Gear the nod over Top Gear

I drove my 32 GTR (standard ECU / Boost) to work for a few weeks, from a full tank to the empty mark it returned around 420kms with only the occassional squirt on the throttle (approx 14.5L /100km) By Comparison my daily driver 02 TJ 3.5 Auto Magna returns just over 600kms on the same journey (approx 9.8L/100km) Our worst performer however is the Mrs's 02 NM Pajero GLS Manual which covers between 500-550kms on the journey (approx 15L/ 100kms) However, where the Magna and Paj are consistent performers the GTR has the potential to chew some serious fuel with 20L+/100kms not uncommon on cruizes etc ......!

BTW, I have'nt bothered trying yet but you can check for air leaks here by pouring water over the inlet manifold where it seals to the head, if the car hesitates / Splutters then yes there is a leak

Mine is the same (32 GTR) nice smooth 1100 rpm idle...... I was told by tuning shop this is a common problem and is an air leak into the inlet manifold caused by old inlet manifold gaskets, it can be fixed by replacing the gasket but is time comsuming and costly...hence I live with the high idle. BTW, Drops to 950 with AC on.

The Federal 595 RS's by all accounts are a very good tyre...in the dry. I'd fit them to mine but they dont come in 18's apparently....

Imported mine over 12 months ago with 66800k's on it, it is now showing 72000kms This year will be even less by the looks of it....

Heres a few of Mine I prefer to buy readymade Autoart or Kyosho 1/18 diecast cars for my collection as you just can't beat the attention to detail. But prefer to make my own 1/43 WWII Aircraft.

So for a small amount of street driving and the odd competitive event (where I want to be competetive!) Which would be the tyre for me then? The cheapest R-Comp?

OK, My R32 GTR is basically a toy, it has travelled less than 6000kms in the last 12 months. It gets used for cruizes, and Track events and thats pretty much it. The Current tyres that is was imported on now have exposed steel belts....so I figure its time for a change. As I want to use it in more competetive events...and as I dont like to lose I want to replace the road tyres with a set of Comp R's. I also cannot be bothered with 2 sets of rims. I currently run 18" R34 GTR wheels with 245/40/18's. As these tyres would see some day to day road use I dont want to waste big bucks on 'The Best' comp R tyre.... I have been quoted $330ea for a Continental comp R tyre imported from the states, which if I ordered now would not arrive until the end of July, but seems quite cheap. What would you guys recomend as a good 'value for money' COMP R Tyre? Cheers Lindsay