Gradenko

vspec, yeah new avatar. sealab rocks! I'm on the lookout for better babylon 5 cgi shots.

How long you been without the car now angel? I finally got the new plenum on this week (after 2 wks) but Danny's off to the eastern states for a week, so I'll have to wait yet another week to get the piping done. Thats 3wks for something that should have taken 4 days! Thats what you get with home mechanic efforts i guess .

Hey all. vspec, shuto and rob, i'm going to have to ask all of you for a lift one of these days. damn you "medium" turbo ppl .

Front camber was set with the poly bushes to -1deg40' LHS and -1deg43' RHS. This is working for me so far. Before the adjustable bushes went in, front camber was only -1deg, which wasn't quite enough. The place that does my alignment deals with a lot of suspension work. They don't have any problems adjusting my front camber bushes when I come in. Front castor bushes are a bit diferent, they really have to installed by the people doing the alignment because there's no adjustment for them once they are bolted into place. Theres no need to adjust castor once its set so its not that big a deal. Mine weren't set to max castor at first but it only took the alignment guys 30min to fix. But that means using a Macpherson strut design, eww. I'll take our double wishbone front any day .

Thats nice work there Aidwin :burnout: .

Ain't nufing wrong with gaffa and zip ties. I'm sure many an intercooler job is held up by little else .

How much more adjustment? Last I checked they didn't offer more than Whitelines poly adjustable bushes. Thats 1.5 deg for the castor bushes and +/- 1.5 deg for rear camber (with two kits). I agree on the point about looks for the Cusco stuff though . They might be lighter than the stock forged arms too.

Er, no. Note his problems are before 4800rpm, not after. The turbo is a T3, btw. ECR 33, the 4500rpm flat spot is a common problem with 25t's, but a safc + tuning usually sorts it out for most ppl (myself included). The factory ecu runs super rich and takes out a bunch of timing at non-stock boost levels. Cutting back fuel (afm load) on the safc should have corrected it. Does your tuner have much experience with rb25det's?

Yeah, its the bit that claws around the bottom of the injecter. A malformed pintle cap may not seal the lower o-ring to the fuel rail and that would let fuel leak into the inlet tract. Doesn't affect flow or spray pattern at all. Steve, i think your right about the claws, they don't have much of a part to play in sealing the o-ring. A bit late for me to put the old caps back in. Their all gone now . I didn't like how brittle the old pintle caps were, they could have come apart in the inlet tract at anytime and caused the injectors to leak, so I asked the guy to replace them all. I had a few broken claws before I removed the injectors. I think combustion temperatures would have made short work of any rogue plastic bits. I remember reading a column in Wheels where the author told us about the time a mouse ran up his workshop mechanics leg, up his back, over his shoulder, down his arm, down a screwdriver and into the open carby he was working on. The engine gave a quick miss and splutter and returned to a solid idle like nothing had happened . Steve, if the Sard injectors didn't come with caps, that could be the reason Inasant and yourself were having trouble with them leaking. Was there an indent after the lower o-ring for a pintle cap to sit on?

I now officially hate side feed injectors. Don't damage the pintle caps when removing your injectors, there are no replacements available! It probably won't matter if you are careful though, half off mine were broken even before I removed them from the rail. Found a new injector guy who's trying to make custom pintle caps for me. Hopefully these ones will seal properly.

I may have spoken too soon. The injector cleaning place I went to said pintle caps to suit our injectors are hard to find. Not too big of a problem though, the pintle caps are just there to secure the lower o-ring, they don't affect spray pattern at all. The injector guy ended up modifying pintle caps from another injector type to suit. It looked like it'd do the job but a couple of the injectors popped out when I tried test pressurizing the rail at home. It may have been because I didn't screw the injector caps back on, but I think the injectors should make a pretty good seal with the rail even without the injector caps on. Any one know?

Angel, boostzor is organising a mini group buy for skyzer and myself for front slotted rotors (DBA 4963). $240. pm me if you want in. We expect to go ahead with it tomorrow.

I saw a Street Fight II machine for $500 in the Quokka last week. Apparantly arcade machines with orginal "moves sheet" for games like sf2 are getting to be collectors items, so the prices are higher than usual. Might be an idea to build a MAME cabinet and run what ever game you want . Jojo told me about the new buisness venture. Sounds like fun, good luck!

However given a fmic, a properly sized front entry plenum (not 5L+ on a stock turbo) with standard throttle body will almost certainly improve throttle response. At least, thats the setup I'm moving to this week, so I'll see how it does. I don't understand all the praise towards the stock plenum. Internally its design isn't anything special and cyl 3 &4 are far favoured over the rest. I have tell tale heat marks on the middle injectors which suggest those cylinders running hotter (leaner) than the rest. Not the most scientific of tests, I know , but its what I'd expect given the stock layout of the plenum.

B-Man, leaving them in the rail is just a chemical clean which works but isn't the best way to clean injectors. I'm removing them to have cleaned ultrasonicly and replace worn seals. A friend came over and managed to pry them out of the rail with a wide flat head screw driver. Took a while to get the technique down but they popped right out once he had it figured out. Most of the plastic things survived too . But they are cheap to replace.

Micko, did the cruise go past the crash scene or was the commodore part of the cruise?

Hey micko. How the 2530's treating ya? Aidwin, yeah, the owner of URAS is pretty damn funny. I like the one where he invites the camera crew into the bathroom while his wife is in the shower. vspec, was the wolf's boost control similar to the blitz or much, much better?

Aidwin, what size gate you got now? And do you need the bigger one? vpesc, once you figure out how to get the injectors out of the rail, come and push mine out too . My fuel rail is on the bench now and I've tried for a while with no luck.

Aidwin, are you Captain No License now? Its all fun and games, isn't it?

Yeah, I read about the GT30. Sounds good . Do you have an internal wastegate now, SHUTO-BOY? Have you got l33t injector removing skills, vspec?

Hey there everyone. Hows things? I see bam bam has had a bingle.

I removed the rail and tried lightly tapping the pintle with a socket and malet, but the plastic pintle surround shattered. I think the surround was there to help the spray pattern. Did you cause any destruction using a hammer on the pintle? I'm not replacing injectors, just removing and cleaning.

zanda, they seem to be pushed into the rail, but not really held down by it. I removed the rail anyway, to see if I could get a better grip on the injector, but its just as difficult out of the car as it was on the car. I think I may throw in the towel and let the injector cleaning guy deal with removing them from the rail.

Cya. I have no idea how rev210 removed his with the upper plenum on. Its freaking impossible even with full access! I'm off to bang my head against the car some more.

Out injectors are side feed, so they slot into the rail (kinda). Not like top feeds that sit under the rail.