Gradenko

I'm replacing the upper plenum so I have full access to the rail and injectors. The cap on the injector unscews easily enough, and I can get the injector to rotate in the rail, but the injectors are impossible to pull out of the rail. I think I'll pull the rail out and work on it on a bench.

Hey there everyone. I'm in need of help from mechanic types. Is it possible to remove injectors while the fuel rail is still on the car? I've been trying for a while and they don't seem to want to budge. Anyone removed injectors on a RB25DET beofre? Help!

Front upper bushes let you dial in camber +/- 0.75 degrees. You also get a little more feedback through the steering wheel and all the other benefits of polyurethane. Rear upper bushes can be used for camber adjustment too.

All-round is the one you want for day to day driving and circuit work. Polyurethane bushes are good. Now you just got the front upper arm and rear upper arms left to get the new car feel.

*shrug* I'm over SPL . A cars cabin was never the best for trying to get flat bass response anyway. Only thing I want now is a half decent arial. FM reception blows.

Yeah, deep house is underground . So who's cruising tonight?

Hey all. Hard house... :spew: Give me deep house and click mixes anyday. zanda, you got front and rear bushes ready to go in as well? Otherwise say hello tyre wear hell .

lol, you two dyno queens crack me up

Go for an electric fan, for sure. I'm just waiting for mine to die so I can convert . Davies-Craig have a few but they cost dollars (~$300). Could try seeing whats avaiable in 12-16" at the wreckers. DIY install is possible; try a search cos a few ppl have done it.

summoner, Hills in SA make a nice one for around $800 with tuned bellmouths etc. Any negative effects with the stock turbo really depend on the chamber volume. The bigger the volume to fill, the longer it'll take for the stock turbo to pressurise it and the worse response will be. I heard from one source that the rough rule of thumb for ideal plenum volume is 1.5 x engine capacity for a circuit car. The 5L+ drag style plenums far over shoot that mark, and the factory RB25 ones are a tad small at 2.77L. We need something inbetween (~3.5L for a RB25).

N/A®, I never heard any knocks on mine, instead the back end used to shift left to right over every bump (did the crab walk). Either your subframe bushes are really worn or you've got other suspension issues to work out or it may be as simple as an exhaust mount thats worked loose. Have it checked it out.

Sydneykid, we haven't been told what ECU is in it yet. But on the second page of this thread the owner, DYNOSTEVE, mentions that its some sort of piggy back system.

The people who stole it called you? That would have freaked me out. Where was it found?

In Perth, try Whiteline retailers (WA Suspension, Wheelsworld, X-Speed, etc), or C-Red who have non-Whiteline pineapples for cheaper. And stay away from Pedders.

Bloody hell . Not your "NOS is fake hp" crusade again. I thought we already beat you down on this? BTW, I'm trying real hard not to get into the rice debate. And its a pretty big ask for me .

25GTT, I'd go for Walbro pump if noise is a concern. They are drop in replcements (or close to) for upto 255L/hr. Prices compareable or better than Bosch pumps. When you talk about power goals, can you translate it into power at the engine... I don't understand rear wheel figures. If 320rwhp is all you want, I have a dyno sheet of a 25t on stock injectors that does that. Mine. Dyno's differ huge amounts and rear wheel figures are mostly irrelevant. Stock injectors are good for 370bhp at standard fuel pressure (engine power), or up to ~400bhp if fuel pressure is cranked to the limit. And you'll probably want something a little better than a s-afc to control new injectors with. My advice would be to setup the new turbo on low boost with the stock injectors and bide your time till you can find/afford new injectors and a pfc (if you want >400bhp).

*shrug* Whatdami, directory service? Prices vary between shops. Try Nengun and Taka.

Grey skys, yeah, go for the management. Decide how far you want to take engine mods and find a s-afc for the short term or a pfc for the long term. drifta, don't you also have a mega-dollar exhaust manifold? That would make some difference too. Nexus_SiX, I like your intro www page. Almost got me, then I started wondering why I was seeing an IE error while using Opera under Linux .

R32 GTSTT, please do a search to answer the rest of your questions. Pistons, crankshaft and gearbox for a RB30 have been discussed a million times already. You still haven't told us how much power you're looking for. Do you expect to drive this car on the street?

Why? A 80mm pipe with filament running down the centre isn't going to be a physical restriction, and afm's are much better at measuring engine load than map sensors. Work with the ecu you've got R32 GTSTT. Its more than capable.

R32 GTSTT, what sort of power are you looking for? RB20/25 afm's are good for ~370bhp (thats at the engine). If you want any more, you'll need a Z32 or better afm. Whats your power goal? Chasing power without setting a power goal is always going to end in disaster. A twin turbo RB20 is a different way to go about things and I like it. Twin RB20 turbos is the wrong choice though. Look for twin RB26DETT turbs (T28 flange) or twin VG30DETT turbs (T25 flange), they'll be a better match.

Two wastegates is very useful is a situation like this and theres no reason why one should be blocked off. With only one wastegate, theres a very real risk it being unable to bypass exahust gas from the turbine (because of its low flow) and boost pressure rising to uncontrolable levels. I guess you're already well prepared to expect a whole lot of lag. The exhaust housing on stock RB20 turbo's are going to be way too big for a 1L 3 cyl engine. Lag city.

Hmm, thats a fairly low cold idle speed. Suprised it doesn't stall in really cold weather, like engines of old (manual choke era). Glad it works for you though.

KILLER-T, I'm guessing cold idle and warm idle are all at the same rpm. How high?

25GTT, something to keep in mind about the Greddy and Sub-zero plenums - no provision for factory idle control. Only a problem if you want to keep the factory ecu or powerfc and want good cold start, normal idle and air conditioning compensation. Its pretty high up on my plenum check list. I think the Hills Motorsport plenum keeps factory idle control and its not a bad price, so its worth a check out. I've found two types of XF throttle body's, the 65mm and 85mm (could be 90mm). Sydneykid has mentioned the standard RB25DET throttle body (at 65mm) is good for at least 400bhp, so I'd keep it on for good driveability with the standard turbo. Even if you're planning on big power, change the throttle body later rather than sooner.