Gradenko

Thats highway robbery. Maybe in exchange for a single stubbie, or a 6-pack at most .

Bl4cK32, a RB25 head won't line up on a RB20 block. Different size bores, etc. Read sydneykid's posts re: metal head gasket. They cause problems and don't solve any issues that can't be fixed with head work. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...25&pagenumber=1

Zanda, I'm mr option . I've put up vol100 on waixreactor to download via edonkey. Got another 2 discs to hand out at the next cruise. If anyone wants to pay $70 a disc for them (from jms), we can have option coming out of our ears! Gotta go. Final exam celebrations have begun.

Depends on your definition of close, I guess . Theres a dyno in Perth that puts out hugely inflated figures (telling me I have enough power to run 11s), and every state will have one of those. Even if the dyno's do put out similiar numbers, theres things like auto or manaul, temp, gear ratio and the operator themselves that change can power output and driveline loss %. Its a fuzzy figure and a real pita to add 30% to get a guestimate flywheel figure everytime. Its not practical to measure power at the engine, buts that not say its a useless figure. How else do you select a turbo? Or set a power figure to have your head flowed to? Rear wheel power figures don't mean much in real terms. Thanks, a figure I can get my head around .

Why not make it truly universal and talk about power at the engine. The US fellas will be using different dyno's to us, so talking about rw power is even less relevant than it is among ppl using the same make dyno. If I remember right, their dyno's would read higher for the same power as us. So 300rwkw to them is equivalent to 250rwkw to us (for example). Its something that really irks me. What's 300rwkw anyway? I can ride a pushbike on a dyno and get that number with enough operator fudging. Don't mean to single you out Joel, been meaning to say this for a while. Power at the eninge. Its the only goal to set. (Really, whats your goal (300rwkw) at the engine?).

Sumo, I've been through a half-dozen changes of Mobil 1 (5w-50) since the ticking started and recently moved to BP Visco 5000 (5W-40), and had no change. nismoman18, got a url for this stuff? Busky2k, an engine oil flush was what originally brought the ticking on. At first, it was only lightly ticking when cold, but its progressed to very loud ticking whether hot or cold. I guess whatever got dislodged during the flush travelled through the oil system and got stuck in the lifters. Your the second person to recommend trying 0w-30 weight oil, so I may give that a go. The RB26 doesn't use hydraulic lifters but the RB25 definitely uses them, same as the RB20 (I think).

Have a read of this: http://board.performanceforums.com/forums/...readid=67154027 Its a guide to cleaning hydraulic lifters on 4G63's to get rid of that annoying ticking. Is there anyone here familiar with RB25 lifters that knows if the same technique can work for us?

Any one else think this is a damn good idea? http://www.fahncahn.com/test/bikethieves/b...bikethieves.htm I've got the bats, who's got a van?

Sneeza, thanks. (Drew the hubby, right? )

Heya VSPEC. Seen any half decent cars there yet? Must be good not seeing a dozen 25t's every day. (Too many bloody 'lines in Perth)

Name's spelt Dinesh fellas, but just use Gradenko. Saves on the thinking. rob77, yeah, I know what ya mean. Every bug I hit is a potentional fin bender. Really gotta go find some mesh one day. Trouble is, everyone sells gay boy rice mesh (macka style), not the wide spaced stuff I want.

Hey rob77. Your avatar looks scaringly similiar to my front - minus the cat5 I have holding the license plate up. And my ricey red S.

skyzerr33, but i washed it just the other month! Next wash scheduled for ~Nov. Hey, all the recent rain is keeping it shiny. MrGTST, nice dyno result. When do you get back to Perth? I'm waiting to see what you have hidden away there.

Or mainly just my cries Hey there everyone.

Out of curiosity, how is your catch can setup? Where are hoses running to and from? If its being run as a fully sealed system (ie. not vented to atmosphere or intake pipe), then pressure build up in the crank case would have forced the dip stick out. A sealed system would also eventually cause the rocker cover gasket to leak, and other nasties. Just a friendly fyi.

caminperth, we can't take ImPrOvIsE's boost level as being factory anymore. His intake and exhaust mods would have free'd up back pressure and increased boost by the by. Those would be the only reasons for boost to change over the years. Except for air leaks and stuff of course. If I remember from back when my car was stock (factory airbox, exhaust, the lot), the factory boost gauge used get up to 3.5, which is 6.8psi. Filter and exhaust saw boost rise to ~10psi. BTW ImPrOvIsE, I would go for fuel control next, so yeah, a SAFC (or pfc or whatever) before a FMIC.

I'll have to ask Shuto-boy, I'm not sure what the full title is. It starts with "Shuto"... not too helpful, I know.

Hmm, well I could burn the rest (2 discs) if you want to come by my place and pick them up. Or meet up at Curtin this week? Can you look out for the movie Shuto no-something on pirated vcd or dvd in Malaysia? Shuto-boy was on about it and I'd like to see it.

Next cruise. I already told ya that.

G0DF4Th3R, not quoting 2f2f i hope. No spoilers, I haven't seen it yet! Watch the first fnf last night on dvd. To quote Boostzor: "Man, I feel like nailing my balls to the table just to distract me from the pain of watching watching a movie as shit as this".

zanda, the factory gauge reads in mmHg x 100, not psi. Theres a conversion table here: http://xtronics.com/reference/convert.htm So if the factory gauge reads 5, then 500 mmHg x 0.01934 = 9.67 psi. Sounds about right.

Good point. Reckon theres a market for fake fmic's on NA's? Probably already been done.

Only just noticed this thread. Had a really long reply planned but I cbf. Here's the short version: rice Rice RICE! Whats wrong with the factory one? And why do you want to blow ~$300 on a new one? When you drive by and "whoosh" at me, I won't be thinking that sound makes the car any cooler. I'll be thinking, "Why on earth did that ass clown blow ~$300 on an externally venting BOV for a AFM metered car when you just *know* its going to cause problems". But shit, get one if you want. In fact, why bother buying a turbo car when you can buy this now.

Ah, misinfomation. i love it. Non-turbo R33's are Type-S. Turbo R33's are Type-M. (Yes, all of them). HOTR33, what you have on your car is good old fashioned aftermarket modification, not a factory turbo. Trust whatsisname on this info, he has the original Nissan spec/pricing sheet for 96-97 Skylines and they don't lie.

Sorry, trying to finish a research report thats due at 5pm.