Gradenko

From what I understand, mechanical gauges that read vacum and boost are actually two gauges in one. Theres two measuring mechanisms in each guage, one to measure vacum and one for positive pressure (seems a single device can't do both jobs). So when the gauge is reading atmosphere (engine off), the needle gets stuck between the crossover points of the two senors because 1 atm isn't enough to trigger the positve pressure sensor. My needle always rests before 0 too. A couple of taps on the gauge glass always free's it. It doesn't affect the (in)accuracy of the guage, its just a presentation thing.

Eager to better the odds and be on the winning team, eh.

Your wierd If all you want is a drag queen, then I guess going for a turbo first *might* be ok. But from all reports, a decent intercooler gives far greater throttle response (even with extra piping) on stock or near stock boost. I understand what your saying about keeping the turbo alive. All you need to do is practice a bit of self control. Set it to 12psi (more than safe with a 'cooler) and leave it there

WASSABI, yesterday was pobably not the best time to try out 1.1bar Especially if it the s-afc was tuned for 1bar. Remind me, who did your tuning? I gave mine a right beating yesterday to see how it would handle the heat. Apart from being a bit more lethargic than usual, I had no problems. So now I'm confident that Barries Dyno have tuned mine to make power AND not blow up at the first sign of hot weather/bad fuel. Not the best way of testing it, but I had to be sure

puckish, I haven't driven an early ls1, but hsv's 255 and 260 don't need all that many revs to really get going. The VY had (seemingly) a touch more poke down low, probably had more timing dumped on, but neither was "ho hum" at low revs. Of course, it could have beeen the auto playing tricks on me. With power mode on, it didn't take very much for it to drop a gear and go for it, so it always felt on the boil. Was your Soarer modified? Cause I agree with summoner, a stock Soarer isn't likely to scare my grandmother.

This heat makes me want a fmic even more. Only a matter of days now...

Thanks for the comments, ppl. puckish, the rear end of the VY felt much more planted than the VXII at speed (> 130kmh), no shakes or rattles and I could confidently take sweeping bends at 160kmh without wanting to lift off of hit the brakes. Doing the same in the VT requires a lot of faith and although the VXII wasn't bad, it still felt a little unsure. The VY comes closest to matching the R33s high speed stability. They haven't solved the problems with wind noise though. Theres still a loud rustle (audible in the cabin) coming from around the A pillars at speed. The R33 is better designed in this area too. Build quality, not much to say on this. I poked and pushed at the dash and its quality a big step over the VT style. The climate control buttons are especially improved. Didn't get enough time to test build quality further but in the showroom, there was a pristine VY Senator that had a plastic interior screw cover sitting on the floor. It'd fallen off some part of the car, and the car was brand new! i guess some things don't change. Strich9ine, go take a drive in a VXII and see how it goes. Dealers are *real* desperate to get rid of their demo models and I'm sure they'd be happy letting ppl test drive them. lol, after driving the VXII, I told the salesman how substandard I thought the steering and suspension is and he fully agreed, saying the VY was better in a lot of respects. Then 10mins later, the boss comes over and starts telling us: "what a sweet car that blue auto VX R8 is. Best handling car out of the lot. I really like it over the VY". We just looked at him in stunned silence. He blew it big time:lol:

Well, test drove a VX II Clubbie R8 and VY Clubbie R8 back to back today. I'm not going to bother comparing the subjective side of things. Interior and exteriors change with the fashion. I think you'll all be more interested in the performance side of things - how it goes, how it changes directions and how it stops. Both cars, unfortunatley, were automatics. First up was the VXII. My Dad had the first drive. For some reason he more interested in seeing me behind the wheel, so he kept it short and we changed seats in a side street within 10min. The LS1 is bugger load more refined than the old 5L, it just seems to want to rev and makes a tasty noise doing it. Auto gear changes also seemed to have refined beyond the old neck jerker that was in the VT. Driving out of the side street, the first order of the day was the try and get it sideways onto the main road . It wouldn't lose traction tho, just buckled down and took off. Same corner in my car would have at least had the inside wheel spin. I guess with 1.7 odd tonnes, it takes a fair bit of pushing to get the VXII sideways. And on the R33, the power comes on more suddenly making control a little trickier. Headed straight for the freeway for some speed runs. It certainly doesn't lack power, putting the right foot the firewall resulted in a growl from the exhaust and the speedo rapidly climbing. Oh, and dad boucing about the passenger seat asking me to take it easy . By the seat impression - my 'line would be able to keep lineball in a rolling start and probably standing start, if not in front. The extra 5kW of the VY only makes a difference in the brouchers. Nothing between the VXII and VY on the road. At 160kmh or so, acceleration seemed to be lowing down markedly - more so than in my 'line. Bit of a dissappointment, aren't these supposed have top end? Throttle control by the way, is fantastic compored to the VT and more so compared to the 'line. I guess its something a turbo will never have, but it came as somewhat of a shock after driving the R33 for so long. I was hoping beyond hope that the absolutley shithouse steering of the VT had been fixed but there was only a marginal improvement in the VXII. It was still waay too light, had no feedback, and worse, couldn't tell the driver what was going on at the wheels. This alone would make me puke at the thought of buying one. Ewww. Bad Holden. Bad HSv. Who are they making these cars for? The VY's steering is a vast improvement. Has some wieght to it and on centre isn't just a dead zone. Still not R33 quality, but its night and day compared to previous models. Suspension tuning is a bit of a mixed bag. The VXII was moderatley firm and it handled bumps well, but it was still too much of a comprise. High speed bends had the car feel like is was floating and while it didn't feel out of control (or as bad as the VT), it didn't feel planted at all. The VY suspension is much improved, no floating and it felt planted on the same corner. The VXII didn't feel as good as my stock suspensioned R33 but the VY easily matched it for road holding and bettered it for ride quality. Didn't get to try either in twisties. Braking wise, the VY is very nice. 4 pot calipers with 348mm rotors pulled up well. As a comparison, the R33 has 4 pot with 296mm rotors and 300kg odd less to pull up. Didn't get the chance to give them good enough testing to draw a comparison, but they're a big step in the right direction. Overall, I felt the R33 stacked up well against them in outright speed and has much better feedback and suspension design. Be careful if you try and take them on, they DO pack a punch. Hopefully, dad will choose the VY cause the VXII is as shithouse as the VT. Summoner, you have some big gonads taking your VU to 260kmh . If my words sound biased, its most probably because they are. I am after all, a R33 driver Note: If you're an anti-holden biggot who wants to spread hate, don't bother replying.

Excellent time! For reference, I ran a 13.802/103.68mph, 2.378 60'. Its all in the 60'. You would have rocketed if that 2.1 (60') run had of gone through. So, gonna get a new clutch to match that flywheel?

Sounds like the shiznit. Let me know once you've got it in

Yourself. Hang about if you've given it a cane. The algorithms in even the most fancy electronic ones won't be as good as your brain.

slayer, over 12psi on the stock cooler is bad news. I used to drive around with 10psi without a s-afc, and there was no getting past the slump in power (not boost) at 5000rpm. Some ppl don't have the same problem, though. Seems every R33 ecu reacts differently. rob77, whats the trust fmic gonna set you back, including fitting and piping?

And a turbo

Good work, skyzerr33 Although, replace the word "new" in the 2nd sentence with "newer, better". Adds a little more sting to it. And don't mention insurance, say that you bought the new car yourself. This does 2 things: - Insurance paying for the new car implies a victimless crime - He hates people with (more) money (than him). He'll love it when the victim can afford a new car in spite of his antics So, with proposed changes: "Greetings and thank you for stealing my car. I've replaced it with a newer, better one, and now I have the satisfaction of knowing that while I myself won't be getting ****ed in the ass on a daily basis for the next 7.5 years, you WILL. Near the end of your release, I'll be sending you a colostomy bag, since I'm sure your man muscle is going to have quite a bit of wear." And make sure boo5t or skylines aren't mentioned anywhere. Keeps him guessing and stops retaliations.

Was it set at 14psi using the dyno operators guage? Cause that kinda examplifies the inaccuracies in gauges I was talking about. But otherwise, yeah, boost levels change under different loads or in different gears. Its the trade off we pay for using pneumatic control. Personally, I'm not too worried about a psi or 2 of creep in higher gears. By that time, the car would be pushing enough air thtough the cooler to cool down any extra heat from the turbo. The fact remains, most guages are should be considered inaccurate until proved otherwise by testing. Still, they are useful for monitoring extremes changes in pressure.

A distributer once told me that Splitfire and Autometer are made at the same factory. Makes sense considering how similar Splitfire guages look to the ultralite series. In any case, I wouldn't trust any automotive guage to set boost pressure. Most of these are for interior decorating, not as a precision measuring tool. If you care for your ride, take it to a dyno and let them set boost level. I've been through this my self when trying to set boost pressure. Guage read 12psi but I was getting a boost cut, and that only occurs at 14psi+.

Thats an understatement. I remember when you first came on Performance Forums asking about Skylines, seems like years ago now. Was it resprayed by the importer or by an ex-Perth owner? Post pics!

7 1/2 years, is that fcuking all?! With parole, he'll be out in less and looking for a way to pay for his next harry hit. Any guesses as to how he'll make money? Hmm, lets see what his package of skills include... "expert in break-ins". Bloody junkies.

Based on gear ratios, I worked out the top speed of a R33 GTS25t to be ~270kmh. This is assuming the car has enough power to push it along, so probably not applicable to a completly stock car. I'd imagine it could do 240kmh comfortably stock. I hear that 5 speed GTRs can do 240kmh in 4th gear, now thats some long legs.

Jebus Boostzor, you couldn't have changed oil more than 8wks ago, 5000k already. Too many aimless cruises, eh? Oh yeah, tell your brother he's an assclown for driving around without a radiator cap. SLY33, could you tell us more about Purulator and Hard Driver filters, including price and any reasons why they may be better than genuine Nissan filters?

Whys that? :lol: lol. Wait, you were joking, right? I wouldn't wish bose on my worst enemy. http://www.google.com/search?q=bose%20suck

Except, that carbon fibre look-a-like trim is not affordable. I'd rather blow $450 at a casino than buy faux carbon fibre stickers.

I don't have hard facts on series II dashes, but I'd imagine they are the identical in shape and layout. Its not rice unless its red!

Do you think theres any way to modify the HKS gear to work with the VCT sensor and bolt it to the standard camshaft? That'd be a big break through. At the end of the day though, the standard camshaft is still probably limiting you. Sounds like a good setup for a drift car

slayer, I think you'll find this is a problem inherit with all R33 series 1 consoles and its probably the main reason (i hope) why people are painting their dashes. With age and possibly due to sunlight and armourall, the coating turns soft and gets really easy to scratch and peel. Its a flaw Nissan fixed with series II R33s by using a different (harder) coating. My dash is going through the same peeling process, so I've also decided to paint it. Not rice boy red mind you (yes, I'm talking about YOU, G0DF4Th3R), but something really, really dark. I'm trying to source a place to do it for $150 or less atm, otherwise I'll follow EVL R33's DIY instructions.