Gradenko

:eek1: N000oooooo...

Whats happened to your memory? It was keen in the mighty Wrangler that was playing silly buggers with the Corrolla (i was just a passenger). And to clarify, it was the fwd 'rolla that went flying over the median Oi, Boostzor, stop editing my post!

JimX, try contacting them direct. http://www.racebrakes.com.au/

skyzerr33, you're ahead in mods. Crank boost up to unreasonable levels and show waifs whats what. Boostzor, bugger off :shake:

When under pessure, RB74s are far better than Ultimates they replaced on my car. I think they're track orientated but don't have any problems pulling up when cold and seem to get better after a few stops. I only do street drivng and in some light motorkahna work, so thats were my experiences are from. Ultimates were harsh on the rotors and the RB74s don't appear to be any better. Can't tell if they chew the rotors any worse as I've only had them in for a couple of months. With the price that GreenStuff is at and their short lifetime, I'd rather use pads that cost half as much and last much longer but wear the rotors slighlty more. Braided brake lines are a really good idea, but they don't really offer much braking improvement for the price. UAS want $130 each for their street legal braided brake lines, 4 x 130 is a pretty hefty price. I haven't actually tried braided lines before, so if anyone thinks its worth it, please let us know. Oh, and where can we get street legal lines cheaper?

I'm a little confused by that turbo setup. No wastegate to bypass exhasut gas, instead boost is controlled by venting already compressed air. The turbine is allowed to spin as fast as it wants, perhaps even out of its efficency range. How can this possibly be more effecient than a wastegate setup?

Man, that sucks. After the cops are done with them, advise the owners to take the little kunts to court. Sue them personally for repair costs and trauma. Actually, insurance will go after the thief themselves, if the owners claim for repair. Just hope premiums don't rise.

Sorry, wasn't my intention to put that image across. Like most of us here, this is just a hobby. Only two things upset me on forums, one is rice boys tarnishing the Skyline name, and the other is misinfomation (sometimes also seen in the form of opinion passed as fact).

That really is excellent. I'll add it to the running tally of how many dyno sessions SAU members go to. It counts +5 points towards their overall "I Know How To Tune" rating. Well! That proves it then. S-AFCs really do change air-fuel ratios. Please, someone bring this man the "Stating the Obvious" award!

Oh dear, your trying to push the point by using overwhelming ignorance and fallacy based logic. Charming. I love the fuel pressure regulator argument. Note, I said driveability is gained from timing changes. Power is made from the right afr's but whats the point if timing is continuely retarded and its a slug to drive? Fuel alone isn't going to fix problems inherent in the factory ecu's program. I'm going to assume your not trying to favourbly compare a pressure reg to a s-afc, because a blanket change in fuel delivery regardless of revs is hardly the most sensible way to go about it. Plus, its the same price as a 2nd hand 1st gen s-afc, which is orders of magnitude more tuneable. The S-AFC has no direct control over fuel mixtures or delivery, the factory ecu makes its own decisions! Lets not turn this into EFI Systems 101. I'm done.

Yes, it does affect timing. S-ITC allows for custom timing changes, but thats not to say that the S-AFC doesn't allow for any timing changes. The factory computer uses the AFM as its main sensor to determine engine load. Measuring the amount of air ingested allows it to switch to an appopiate fuel ignition map. That is, a map that defines fuel and ignition timing. From factory, R33s are programmed to dump a whole load of fuel and knock back timing any time it breathes more air than in stock tune. Its a safeguard against detonation but removes all the fun making power. Example: lighlty modified 'lines are always running rich and have a flat spot over 5000rpm. Fooling the computer into thinking the engine isn't breathing as much at a certain rpm (using a s-afc to modify afm voltage), relaxes safeguards and allows the computer to switch to a mapping with aggressive timing and less fuel. Perhaps you should read up on senors in an EFI system and how they contribute engine tuning before you enter ECU related discussions. Sorry, but I dislike misinfomation on forums.

The f-con adam found is the pfc f-con, not the f-conV. The pfc is strictly fuel only, using a harness to talk directly to injecors and has no other functions. The ROM is programmed from factory and can only be replaced by ROM options from HKS. I consider is to be far inferior to the s-afc because it lacks the ability to modify ignition timing, something the s-afc can do as a by product of modifing air flow meter values. Ignition timing is where the majority of drivablity gains are made on a RB25DET.

Well, I said decent bleed setup - turbosmart is not this. I'm using a Norgen pressure regulator setup in recirculating cycle, works fine. May not be perfect, but suits my needs. Remeber, Nismo_Freak is looking for ways to minimize costs and a bleed setup excels in the value for money stakes.

I spoke to Brett at a S13 cruise last week. Said he was keen and was going to ask the boss for details. Too bad I'll be south for the weekend...

Do what Boostzor did, tell 'em their work is not upto standard and drop the price $50 for them. I'm sure it'll go down well ...course, it'd help if you hadn't of already paid.

Nothing would piss me off more than having to rip off tinting I've paid $200odd for. I went the max limit, but to each their own.

Best standalone would be a Apexi PowerFC. Over here, we can also get a Microtech ECU that plugs straight in to the wiring loom, but I'd probably still take the PowerFC though. Check Nengun for prices. Have you looked at the Greddy E-Manage?

Exhaust: ditch the name brand muffler and buy something local thats of straight through design. Boost controller: a decent bleed setup will hold 12psi ok. Mine does. Turbo timer: use yourself. ie hang around for a couple of minutes after a hard kane Radiator fan: standard clutch fan won't fit in engine bay? Can't comment on power output, what with the different dynos you guys use and everythng. Will be very quick in a s14 tho.

Sod off! I have first dibs on the strut bars

Yeah, what they said Sure you weren't comapring apples with oranges? If the ARE was tube & fin while the Trust was bar & plate, of course the trust is going to look like it flows a lot more air, its a by product of the core's design. AFAIK, ARE use top quality cores. Most of you probably know this, but heres an insight on why the Japanese sell everything (from exhausts to underwear) in kit form: Laour. Its just too bloody expensive to pay someone the labour to build custom parts, works out cheaper for them to mass produce. Asking us to build a 9sec GTR without Japanese parts is a bit silly. Why not ask the Japs to build a 9sec LS1 without Aus or US parts? I'd like to see a PowerFC for that one! Note: the GTR probably could be built, but why reinvent the wheel for things like tubular exhaust manifolds.)

adam 32, the bare e-manage box has 5 dials (trim potentiometers) built into its underside. By itself, this gives you similiar tuning resolution to a 1st gen s-afc. But if you wash Chris's car and get a hold of the software & usb cable, it extends the tuning range to a 16x16 map and lets you do other funky things, like upgrade afm's and injectors. http://www.mkiv.com/tmp/emanage/emanage_so...ual/esm/004.JPG BTW R34, how did the tuning of the e-manage go? Anything to add?

Most probably, yes. But I wouldn't expect it to be cheap (standard hks rip off prices) and it still won't change timing. Oh yeah, if its connected to the car right now, I'd be careful about removing it. The Biltz ecu may have been tuned in unison with the pfc, so pulling it out could change the fueling maps. Maybe a check by a tuning shop before and after its removed to make sure it doesn't run too lean.

Thats the biggest crock of shit I've read in a long time.

adam 32, you've already peiced together the story with these things, but I thought I'd add my experiences anyway. At one point, I was looking at buying a used PFC-Fcon (+ GCC) from the eastern states for about $200. Heres what I know: - pfc-fcon is a essentially rom based fuel only computer that talks directly to injectors via harness. Not programmable and no timing changes. -The rom comes programmed from factory for basic mods and replacement roms are only available through hks. - HKS claim extra tunability via an add on device, the GCC. It makes modifications to the air flow meter signal, so really nothing special, basically an overpriced 1st gen s-afc (can be used with or without the pfc-fcon). If you can find a GCC somwhere in your car (small black box with 5 dials), then you're laughing. Take it down to your fav tuner and let them tune it like a s-afc. Otherwise, leave it in until you figure out what to do long term. I'd be thinking remap or basic e-manage package (until you can afford the harnesses you want).

Does the 2JZ intake look anything like the 1JZs? Feeding alternating cylinders sounds like a lot of work. Nizpro will rip you a new one if you ask them for a plenum chamber. Have you read this thread? http://forums.skylinesaustralia.com/showth...s=&threadid=553 Theres a link in it to a guy who makes RB plenum chambers for a decent price.