Gradenko

It sounds like not enuf spark is getting through for one reason or another. Could be coil packs playing up, heres a cleaning technique I read in HPI (or was it Zoom?): - clean the rubber boot on the coil pack with degreaser. Dirt and grime makes it easier for spark to find ground through the insulating boot rather than the spark plug - spray the rubber boot with a silicon based spray to further insalate it. (I used WD40) If none of the coil packs are terminaly fautly, hopefully that should sort it out. NGK plugs are safest to use with our cars, they come factory standard on all jap cars I've seen. Whats the service interval for NGK coppers, 10-20k km? Probably best to replace them if you don't know when they were last changed.

Why not? Do the Japs drink special joo-joo juice that makes them better tuners? I know at least 2 excellent efi tuners of Japanese imports, and I'm in the backwater town of Perth! There are more than capable tuners Australia wide. And what the buggery is the point of sending an ecu off to be mapped when the afr of the actual engine can't be measured in real time? Makes it as useless as those plug'n'play replacement chip bollocks, doesn't it. Don't forget that Australia is home to Haltech, Motec and Autronic - some of the biggest names in ECUs the world over.

Oh yeah... who's his flatmate?

I picked up my axel set of rb74s today. Will install them tomorrow and let everyone know how they are. Hopefully they don't chew rotors as bad as Ultimates do. I urge everyone to get their pads asap, no point letting them hang around. Perth Brake Parts 20 Bellows St, Welshpool

True for the stock R32 gts-t turbo, not true for the stock R33 gts25t turbo. With intake and exhaust done, I have no problems holding boost. They work OK unitil you try and push them out of their envelope.

The engine is definantly a RB25DET, you can see the VCT bulge on the timing belt cover so its not a RB20DET. (Nice job on the plenum, btw) The engine bay doesn't look like a nissan. The fuse box is in an odd place, could have been moved but nissan doesn't use clear covers any way. The gas struts holding up the bonnet look like the sort of thing Toyota would do, or maybe something european. The sound deadening on the bonnet is pretty hefty too. BMW (older 3 or 5 series) keeps coming to mind.

Easy there, I would have come down with a jerry can of fuel if asked I'll try and keep fuel hose on tap for future emergencies 1/4 tank in 40km is harsh.

Joel, I was having a problem with a fuel cut at 5000rpm in hot weather. After much testing, it turned out that the stock airbox was limiting airflow to the point were the engine was running dangerously lean in warmer weather (lower O2 density than cold air). Moving to a pod let the engine rev freely to 7000rpm and also brought boost on sooner. From what I've read, the R32 and all GTR airboxes are no where near as badly designed, so you may be just as well off with cold air ducting. Meggala may be right about cop hassles, we're lucky in WA that it isn't as much of a police state as some others. Pod filters are fine here, k&ns get passed through pits all the time and no cop has ever complained about mine.

Ooh, fmic as well. Ramping things up for mc day, hey :uh-huh:

Heres a web site showing an install of similar bushes on another Z (only in red instead of yellow). Those guys have to use a jack and jack stands just to get under the car, but its easy enuf to do on a 'line without jacking up http://www.z32.org/html/subframespacers.shtml There's no placebo effect here! You can feel it putting down power in 1st gear, when in the past it would happily wheel spin. The most important thing it does is get rid of 1 inches of slack the rubber bushings give the sub-frame. After that, you can set it up for drift or traction by changing geometry of the diff in relation to the wheel.

rs73, how have you hooked up the bleed valve? The R33 stock boost control solenoid is set up to provide 2 levels - low boost below 5600 and high boost above. To get rid of 2-step boost, don't hook up any pressure lines to the solenoid, but leave it plugged to the wiring harness. I agree with meggala about your exhaust. Its hurting your turbo if you run higher than stock boost without getting a bigger exhaust. The factory airbox in R33s is a huge restriction too, I got an extra 1 psi just by changing to a k&n pod.

34GTt, I fully agree that most stock items are only useful upto a certain power level. In fact, the r33 gts25t airbox is useless even at factory power level. The bov doesn't fall into this catogery tho, you'd need to be running more boost than the stock turbo can push before the stock bov starts to leak. In any case, I'd rather not carry on about the pros and cons of bovs. As Strich9ine said, to each their own. Just one point though, You could probably use this argument to push those chrome window washers with blue lights. All much the same market segment, isn't it?

Its relatively easy to install. Just make sure to have (or borrow) a torque wrench, crow bar and an extra pair of hands. The front mount for the diff cradle is just infront of the rear wheel and is closer to the outside of car than the rear mount is. NVH is not too bad after install. I didn't notice any increase in noise, although thats probably cause the noise from my rear wheel bearing is drowning it out It lets a little bit more vibration into the cabin when you put the power down, but it just adds to the go-fast rush. The biggest positive for me (on stock suspension), is that it got rid the crab walk the rear end does when you go over certain bumps. Heres instructions that someone posted on the whiteline yahoo group: That was done on a 300zx, so a few things are differnt for us, like no need for a socket extension because the rear control arm isn't in the way. The exhaust may be in the way though.

RadiuM, I agree. No need to spend extra money when I have no problems scaring pedestrians as it is Yep, guess I'm a rice boy at heart too.

As I recall, the rb cruise where they let the cops know was a disaster. They were followed and yellows were award to special cars. I think we're far better off if the cops consider us ordainary commuters. And yeah, Joe knows all about point 5, don't ya

I'll one up on skyzerr33 and suggest that factory bovs won't start leaking unitl over 20 psi. Theres no need to defend your gtr badge wearing, sticker plastered, neon lit, bov sounding rides - I'm not attacking anyone for they're choices Its just a shame when nissan has made a well designed part that works and ppl replace it for no good reason (scaring pedestrians in not a good reason, imho). They then wonder why their $$$ rice part doesn't work as well as the factory part and want to know what new rice part to replace it with. The solution is obvious, bloody replace it with the factory part! I'm not too sure on this whole improved performance angle. Unless someone can measure the deccelaration rate of the exhaust turbine before and after (or install an aftermarket bov on my car for free ), I'm not going to be convinced.

Just to be pedantic, I wouldn't consider vortex as 98RON fuel. Although the fact the fuelwatch (http://www.fuelwatch.wa.gov.au) doesn't include vortex in they're list of 98RON fuel isn't proof by itself, Caltex, by their own admission rate vortex as being no lower than 96RON. http://www.caltex.com.au/products_oil_detail.asp?id=15 Comparatively, ultimate98 is rated as no lower than 98RON. https://www.distributor.bp.com.au/jsp/catal...ils.jsp?pid=877 In any case, the toluene mix sounds like a plan I may try

34GTt, what was wrong with your factory one? Replacement bovs are... well, you know, *cough* rice.

I'd prefer a night cruise, but I don't mind daytime cruises so long as we stay away from freo and scarb. Those areas are packed with traffic on sunday and make it a real bastard to drive around in. Also, roads in general are busy sat/sun day and that makes it difficult to have a decent cruise, if you know what I mean.

Oh, ok. I didn't know that. 14.2 it is then

Oh, I didn't notice that. Still, seeing as timing doesn't include reaction time and it only starts when the car leaves the line, I think 14.04s should stand. RadiuM, can I take you up on the offer of webspace? I don't think my account has enough space for the next clip I'll have finished.

I'm not sure thats entirely politcally correct, deesh. The ladys may not like it

Here are a few video clips from the drags: Boostzor's 14.36 run, watch that exhaust go for it! (4.4MB) http://www.iinet.net.au/~bsisko/drags0208_Boostzor.avi InitialD's 14.04 run. (3.6MB) http://www.iinet.net.au/~bsisko/drags0208_InitialD.avi Gradenkos 14.04 run, mmm love the sound of a 3" straight thru exhaust... (4.4MB) http://www.iinet.net.au/~bsisko/drags0208_Gradenko.avi Thats all we got before we ran out of tape :-( They're compressed using DivX 5.0.2. The file sizes are huge cause I couldn't bare to lower the res anymore than 500x400. Even so, the quality is pretty poor. Anyone know how to compress DivX without those pesky artifacts coming through? (look at spinning wheels or fast pans) I've got a few more clips lined up ready to edit, like Boostzors incident and Miss Autosalon Edit: Silly me, here I was thinking that our dv cam took progressive footage, turns out its interlaced. Only mega buck cams (read greater than $10k) record progressive. I was treating it as progressive video, hence all the interlaced artifacts. Anyway, i've uploaded new copies as of 6:30pm (perth time). Nothing different about the clips expcept they look a little nicer.

I'm not sure whats worse, the number of cows that gave their life for that interior... or the fact that you're collecting pics of pimp mobliles

How did you deal with VCT activation when using the R32 ECU? Did you ditch VCT or does the ECU have "spare" outputs that can be used?